quick question for those of you who have done timing belt changes. was it a headache to find something else to stick in between the sprocket holes so they don't turn, and did this bring up any other problems (like warping a sprocket or such). I'm installing unorthodox gears so I'm worried about sticking a crowbar through them b/c they're aluminum.

It was a little bit of a hassle but not too bad. I can't really remember what I used to hold them still but I do remember it not taking too long.

The real hassle is gonna be getting the crankshaft pulley off. If you rent the harmonic damper tool from autozone or wherever you can find it you'll be ALOT less stressed out when you are done. All of the other pullers suck, don't waste your time.

I show my cam tool here:
http://www.geocities.com/vttalon/hg.html

You might wrap the bolts in tape to prevent scratching aftermarket aluminum pulleys.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I clamp the old timing belt around the two gears, and use an impact wrench if the timing belt is already removed.

If the timing belt is still in place, jam a screwdriver in one of the flywheel bolt holes.

The mitsubishi tool won't work on your aftermarket gears because it sits inside the gear against the spokes... which dont even exist on AEM gears at least.

for your cam gears, just tie them together... DO NOT TURN YOUR CRANKSHAFT GEAR W/ THE TIMING BELT OFF.. You will totally fuck up your valves. If you dont have an impact wrench, just tie the cam gears together pretty tight and loosen them, its not that hard at all actually, for your crank gear, rent the chrysler/dodge harmonic pulley from Autozone. Its like 60 bucks or so, but you get all of it back and that thing works perfect, its made for that pulley. I can take mine off probably less than 2 minutes using that tool. Good luck..

If you're that worried about bending valves, *while the timing belt is still on* just turn the crank gently by hand to 1/4 turn past TDC (or 1/4 turn before TDC, whichever's closer).

Then pull the timing belt, and all the pistons will be halfway down in the bores and you can turn your cams around without the belt all day long. There won't be anything for the valves to hit. They can only hit piston top when at or damn near TDC for each piston.

Plus, if you're careful and gentle, you can even turn the crank *by hand* without the timing belt too, you'll feel the valves touching without doing any damage. Not like I trust anyone to be careful and gentle around here though, so this is a bad idea. Don't do it. *cough*

haha that was funny

thanks guys.

yea Dan, that's exactly what I was planning on doing - turning the crank 1/4 turn so that all the pistons are in the middle. then I can spin the cam gears and go wheee! For real though, I'm just slightly intimidated about the ft/lbs those are torqued to - so I didn't want to warp anything.

As for the pulley, we ALL know that's a PITA. autozone near my house has them for a $40 deposit. I don't care if I mess up my stocker b/c I'm going to put on the unorthodox UDP anyway.

I WAS going to change cam seals as well, but Dino has me somewhat convinced otherwise to leave well enough alone. Some new seals leaked when he did it.

Oh - one more question - are there any timing belt brands to stay away from? Since 2gnt is banned at my school now I had to search DSMboners and some seem to hate anything other than OEM. I figured any brand was good for 60K miles. I trust your guys opinions more on the matter

I can always count on Corbin to come up with an interesting methodology, LOL

What most everyone is going to say is either get a Good Year GatorBack T-Belt or OEM Mopar T-Belt. Thats it i think

Anyone know of a place to order the Gatorback V's? The part number off of their site is "40246 Timing Belt." Not sure if that is specific to a 4G63 or 420a (do they use the same timing belt?).

autozone has gators.... dont know if the 420a and the 4g63 timing belts are the same, I'd guess not since they are totally different engines, but who knows.. I thought I had a part number, but I cant find it.. g'luck peace

autozone told me they don't have any timing belt stuff for the 420a

nah they have them. I think this is the part number, I have it on my receipt and I'm pretty sure this is it.. They will most likely have to special order it, which takes a day or 2 at the most. 40246 and the price is $53.99, but its the last one you'll ever have to buy. They are guaranteed for life. let me know if ya need anymore help. pm me or hit me up on aim rawdawgstv..peace

The easiest way to take the gears off (after you've removed the belt and put the crank to 9 oclock from 12 oclock (moving counter clockwise) is to use an impact wrench.

The NEXT easiest way is to get a pry bar, put it through one of the spokes on the cam gear and wedge it again the bolt for the back of the timing belt cover. Reverse process for torquing it back on. :thumbsup

Originally posted by Corbin
I show my cam tool here: http://www.geocities.com/vttalon/hg.html You might wrap the bolts in tape to prevent scratching aftermarket aluminum pulleys. Corbin '95 ESI-T HRC+FMIC+ETC... Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Hey Corbin, I did the same thing you did and snapped one of the camshaft bearing cap bolts by using a 1/2" torque wrench w/ a adapter to 3/8" then to 1/4". The adjuster on the wrench says it can do 9.8 ft.lbs., but found out it couldn't go that low when I heard the damn thing snap off in my head.

Yep...I'm now the proud owner of an inch-pound torque wrench to prevent such things.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Originally posted by Corbin
Yep...I'm now the proud owner of an inch-pound torque wrench to prevent such things. Corbin '95 ESI-T HRC+FMIC+ETC... Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I need to pick one of those up.


I used a screw driver through the sprocket and up against the valve cover. Loosened the bolts and then removed the vc afterwards. Don't scratch the mateing surface of the head unless you like oil leaks. :7