My car is dying while I am drive it. The codes that I have gotten are 11 43 22( key dance) . It only does it when the engine is warm. I can drive around 6 mile before it dies. Then I can let it sit for 2-3 minute then it starts and I can get about 50 feet before it dies again. When it dies the rpm drop to about 300 rpm and kind to try to rebound then 0 rpm. I replaced the plugs and wires and reset pcm. Now I am getting no codes at all but the car is still doing the same thing.

11 - No crank reference signal at PCM Check connector at PCM / Check crankshaft position sensor and harness

22 - Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage too low Harness and connector / Engine coolant sensor

43 - Multiple cylinder misfire* Ignition coil / Spark plugs / Ignition circuit / Injector / Upstream HO2S / Compression pressure / Timing belt / Crankshaft position sensor / Air intake / Fuel pressure / Crankshaft position sensor circuit and connector / Bad tuning

Not lookin good for the home team dude.
im not sure what to tell ya. what mods do you have? turbo, nitrous, MSD?

I'm going to guess it's the crank position sensor here. My parents Neon had a similar problem. The wire harness had rubbed up against the block enough to wear through and when they would make a right turn under power, the car would die instantly from that sensor shorting out. Below is a pictuore of where the sensor is. It's more of a joke picture, and I'm thinking the sensor you can see there in it is the oil pressure unit, but you get the idea. I've had the 22 for the longest tiem now and it's pretty much BS imo. Granted, the car isn't going to run at it's optimal level if the ECU doesn't know what temp the engine's at, but it shoudn't die from the temperature being too low unless you're trying to start her up at the North Pole. I wold bet that if the crank pos. sensor goes out, the ECU has no reference for firing the coil pack and sparking, and that would cause the 43.


Good luck. The sensor is on the back of the block towards the timing belt. Get a couple prices and maybe hang out here a little while to see what the experts say.

:thumbsup

So are you say it is the crank sensor or maybe a short in the wiring harness? I did some test on the coil they came out okay when cold,(both were 11.5) but when I went for a drive, I got the engine warm and the car died like usual. I jumped out with my volt meter one of the coils was 11.5 and other was 12.5 still in spects but one was the same and the other had changed. Is this normal for a good coil to do this??

Originally posted by Braven22
So are you say it is the crank sensor or maybe a short in the wiring harness? I did some test on the coil they came out okay when cold,(both were 11.5) but when I went for a drive, I got the engine warm and the car died like usual. I jumped out with my volt meter one of the coils was 11.5 and other was 12.5 still in spects but one was the same and the other had changed. Is this normal for a good coil to do this??

I had the same problems that you are having, I had a bad crank sensor it was cracked in half, that sort of solved the problem, my car wouldn't die, but it wouldn't run right either, turns out I needed a new computer, solved all my problems, I had the same codes you did, I hope this helps you, I went to 3 different mechanics, was without my car for 1 1/2 months and spent a total of $1,100 big ones to get this figured out, car runs great now!

I get 43 every feaken time I boost straight to 12psi from 1st. Not sure why get it, but it's freaken annoying. I go through 3-4 sets of plugs in 2 months. I'm having misfires problems right now. My af say's 1.xxx, I'm running extremely rich under throttle, but the fp guage shows me I'm in the right range.

Where a good place to buy a crankshaft sensor at? I went to auto zone but I had to order a connector with the sensor($19.95 can you believe that!). Can I get one where I don't have to modify the wiring harness.