Hey guys...I'm pretty much getting the runaround about being able to reset the IAC motor on the TB...and was just wondering if anyone could post the page out of the dealer service manual (or a link to it) that says the IAC is resetable???

They wanted me to pay $90 for a damn diagnostic check, when I already told them what the problem is!!! On top of whatever it'll be to fix the IAC, they probably would've told me to buy a new one from them! All they want is our $$$!!!

DOUBLE POST...DELETE

I have a friend who's a master mechanic at a local Mitsu dealership, and when I replaced my crankshaft position sensor, he hooked up a scanner that has a special IAC and "re-learn cam/crank" screens. I didn't really see the whole process, but I guess their scanner can "synchronize" or allow the ecu to "relearn" the "new" part. I suppose it's like recalibrating it electronically. I try to get a hold of him to find out more about it.

just unplug the battery for about 15min and let it reset. then when you hook it back up, start the car and let it idle for about 15-20 min. if you want to pay somebody to reset it, take it to pepboy. they will do it for $50.

What year and I will take a look? I have a service manual for a 95 and 98 Talon as well as the 98 sebring...as long as motors are the same...let me know?

ya their diagnostic fee is ridiculous. i've gone in before and told them exactly what's wrong and exactly what they need to do and they're like "well we still need to look at it and figure out the problem.. it'll be about $100 diagnostic fee" fuck that. i wouldn't normally go to them for anything but i need them to flash my ecu for the stupid secondary air crap on the 95's... unit was removed but ecu wasn't flashed so i have a permanent CEL... for $100 i can live with it.

Originally posted by MCubed45
unit was removed but ecu wasn't flashed so i have a permanent CEL... for $100 i can live with it.

You gonna have to, if they flash it or not. :7

Oh joy, my first double post. x(

This is how I reset mine and it worked perfect... Do a search and you'll see my 50 posts about IAC crap.

Phase 1
-Unplugged IAC
-take IAC off throttle body
-note: some people will argue this is not right, but I have done it and read it in many other posts. Pull out IAC plunger (with your hands, -not to hard) until it brings up and wont pull out any furthur.
-clean it with carb cleaner/intake cleaner
-place the plunger back in the hole untill it brings up in the By pass canal (i made that term up)
-slowly force the IAC motor towards the TB until the they are snug and the O-Ring (get a new one if possible) is squat nicely.
-put your screws back in to tourque spec (haha)
-start the car

One of three things will happen now,
a)the car will stall
b)the car will rev very high (how high? it depends)
c)it will work perfect

If A Occurs
- remove IAC
- very gently push the IAC plunger back into the motor itself (1/64")
- put it all back together
- start the car

If B Occurs repeat PHASE 1

Once it is to the place where the car idles perfect turn it off un-plug the battery, and wait +15 mins. Reconnect the IAC Wire, reconnect you battery and give it a whirl.

I did this 4 months ago and the car has idled and worked perfet since.

Brent

thanx man...very nice write-up...does anyone know exactly how far that plunger should be sticking out? Just wondering, don't go through all the trouble of popping it off just to check for me...thanx!

man I dont know for sure off the top of my head, its been a while, but like 1 - 1 1/4"

trust me man pull it out all the way and stick it back in, if it brings up then you are letting the minimum amount of air pass by (thus it may stall).

If its not in the hole far enough then you get too much air passing by...

trial and error

brent

First off, I can't find anywhere in the service manual that say the damn thing's "resettable". Next, are you showing a 25 code on the key dance? Goes like this...
1. Check the resistance of the IAC between pins 1 & 4 and then 2 & 3 on the IAC side of the connector. you should have between 38-52 Ohms @ app 68 Deg. F. If the values are out, get a new one. If good, Check connectors A-72 and A-78. Repair/Clean as necessary ( A-72 is IAC Connector and A-78 Is main ECM connector. It will be pins 34, 35, 54, 55 < yellow w/ blue tracer stripe, gray w/ blue tracer, orange, and gray respectively at ECM connector. They are the same in that order 1-4 at IAC motor.>) If they are ok, check continuity of the wires between those pins. Repair if necessary. And for the final step. Replace the PCM if all else is good! From the Book!!
This will only ensure that all is good or not. Or you can do as Brent suggested with his procedure. Two good options! Good call Brent by the way! :) What I have given you is exactly what any tech would do at Satans House. Hope I have helped even a little!
:cheers

Originally posted by RickyMeeses
Hope I have helped even a little! :cheers

Dang...lot's of help from everyone!!! I don't have enough $$$ saved to get a new computer...so I'll try moving the plunger...but that was a lot of help man...I think this should be sticky-ed or in the things we've seen before...it sure has helped me out a bunch!!!

Originally posted by RickyMeeses
First off, I can't find anywhere in the service manual that say the damn thing's "resettable".

...section 13A-13 under MFI--troubleshooting. It's in bold print "Caution." :)

Which book are you looking at? I am using the '95 Talon Manual published By Helm Pub for Chrysler...No section 13 in it. 14 refers to the MFI Troubleshooting section. In specific 14A-32...Just curious. Wondering if there is an updated version as of this year. Let me know what year of Pub you have? I'd appreciate it.

I have a Mitsubishi Eclipse, 1996 Vol. 1&2. Vol 1 includes Engine & Transaxle overhaul, and vol 2 is electrical. There seems to be a slight difference between the two versions.

That would seem so, even though they are kissing cousins! You would think that they are the same damn car though!! Guess that there is just enough difference to warrant a higher price to fix the Eagles. Found that to be true of parts also. Well maybe between the two books we gave him some help. :thumbsup :cheers