Can someone post a complete list of their working bottom end? Whether it's a stroker or just a straight forward 2.0L rebuild. Prices would be nice too. I know its a secret for some, so PM is ok too!

I'm trying to figure out what direction to go and what parts to go with. I know I want 8.6CPR w/ the Star Stage 3 Turbo kit. Car will be running on aftermarket ECU.

TIA!
Ritchie

www.vtengines.com . total prolly with shipping and taxes, like 2100. with you sending your block to them.

what aftermarket ecu are you talking about?

Originally posted by bullox
what aftermarket ecu are you talking about?

I'm currently running the Tec3 unit... after a few months of running/tuning, the HG gave out. I dynoed with a gain of 12fwhp and 10ftlbs. But the hp/torque curve was all over the place cause I was running out of fuel due to the diff fuel map.

I built a motor, then swapped it in.

Block/Bedplate - FREEBIE!
Crankshaft kit - Machined crank with Clevite main/rod bearings Standard Crankshaft company, part #13790, 178.00 + $30 shipping
Pistons, CP 10.5 CR, .60 over Blackdog Motorsports $465.00
Piston work, Moly Top and skirt coating, Blackdog Motorsports $160.00
Rings, Wiseco, Blackdog, $75.00
Rods, Eagle Specialty Forged Rods, Blackdog, $350.00
Blackdog shipping $17
Head studs, ARP head stud kit, Summit part ARP-141-4202, $92.39
Main studs, ARP main stud kit, Summit part ARP-141-5801, $137.99
Head gasket, 2gnt member, $45.00
Timing belt, Goodyear gatorback, Pickproparts.com, part 40246, $47.43 + $5 shipping
Idler pulley, dealer, $52.00
Tensioner pulley assembly, dealer, 94.00
Camshaft seals, Dealer, $15.41
Oil pump, Melling Oil Pump, AutoZone part M-190, $59.89
Water pump, Apora, AutoZone part A 120-1300, $45.99
Autozone shipping $15
Lower gasket set, Mopar Lower Gasket Set, Howell, $59.95 + $10 shipping

About 2 grand for parts. Couple of nice things though that could have been done cheaper: head/main studs and the piston coatings. Could have gotten a couple of things locally to forgo shipping, but that wouldn't have added up to much of a savings.

There was ~$600 worth of machine work on the block and rotating assembly. The block was bored .060 over, line bored, the deck was milled flat(5 thou), and then cleaned. The pistons, pins, rings, rods, and crankshaft were race balanced. I don't remember the exact price or the breakout cause I don't have the reciept.

I did reuse the head from my old motor. Had it cleaned, 3-angle valve job, and milled flat(5 thou) for ~$400. This was the only real downtime I had with the swap - waiting for the head. The valves and guides were in good shape. I got a new set of seals from the dealer for $60.

Other then the odd thing here or there(tools, bolts, paint, minor stuff) and the upgrades that weren't specifically rebuild items(adjustable timing gears, PT rockers, PnP mani, etc):
Parts - 2 grand
Machine work - 1 grand
Building a race motor for my street car - priceless.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.7 @ 87.9mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

How much downtime did you have?

I know of them... any other configureations out there?

Thanx!

i know you probably meant star stage 2 but just on the off chance you really thought there was, there is no such thing as a star stage 3 kit.

Ya I did thanx...

anyhow... thnx for the info. Altho, I still can't access any info on FTY Blocks.

If my car was driveable, I would find a block/crank, buy the bottom end kit from howellautomotive and have a machine shop build the short block. You could have it back within a week or so if they are not backed up.

It is hard to beat that bottom end package for price/quality of parts.

My setup is fairly similar to the howell package. I did use JE Piston rings instead and went with .020 over bore. I also used ARP Main Studs, Reflective coated piston tops/moly coated side skirts, blueprinted/balanced and cryotreated quite a few components(block, crank, pistons/rings, rod/main bearings and rods).

This block should take 800whp if I ever decided to make that much power. The only thing I believe would be the weak point is the cast crank. Cryotreating it made it quite a bit stronger, but nothing beats forged.

It all comes down to how much money you want to spend and how much time you have or are willing to give the project. When I'm finished with mine, the car will have been down close to a year. I started stock piling parts in the beginning and then got serious this past fall.

So with that in mind... what is the diff between companies in pistons/rods?

It depends on what you want to spend. The levels of performance/craftmanship seem to go up the more you spend. You have to way your needs with the amount you are willing to part with.

My choices for rods would have been different if I didn't have a local cryotreatment facility.

You will get many opinions, but without hard data it is worthless. These are the choices I would consider for rods(Pauter, Crower and Eagle). I sure wish someone would do a nonbias test and prove which one is stronger. I have a feeling Pauter would win and they definately have the best craftmanship.

I think you cannot go wrong with JE, Ross, Arias or CP. If you want something custom, some manufacturers are more friendly than others. It is hard to beat the JE off the shelf pistons/rings for price and quality. My engine builder only uses JE. They stand behind their product and have great customer service(dealers). If I wanted something more custom, I would lean towards Ross. That's not saying the others aren't just as good or even better. I have just heard great things about Ross.

I have not really researched piston rings. Mine came with JE rings, which are just fine. My engine builder uses them in dedicated race cars and street built motors. He does use tighter tolerances than they recommend though. If you buy JE Pistons, get their rings as well. If you buy another piston, do your homework. I would call the manufacturer themselves and get what they recommend! Many times it might be different than you expect.

Sorry, I do not have much hard data. I still think if you are budget minded and want high quality engine internals, buy the howell package and call it good. If you decide to use one of the 2gnt sponsor engine builders, talk with them and see what they recommend.

Just remember the more you deviate from off the shelf, the more it costs.