Okay tomorrow is the day...the beginning of my engine removal and rebuild. Im running a compression test first to check which cylinders, if not all are low. I know the car must be warmed up to normal operating temp before testing. Also, I will be dropping the oil pan to inspect rods/bearings/crank for any significant damage before removing the engine completely. What Im asking is what can I look for the would be signicant to damage. Tips, comments, ideas...etc. are appreciated. please help me out this is going to be my first big project with my car. I have plenty of downtime available as well. Thanks. aaron


96 Talon ESi Mods
GST Muffler
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers

Are you sure you are pulling the engine? If so do it all with the block out, it's a lot easier.

If you pull the rod caps you can look at the bearings for scoring.

If you pull the head off you can visually inspect the cylinder walls and if it's bad enough you'll see and out of round condition.

What do you think is wrong? Or what are you doing to the engine tat you want to inspect?



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

Well my car is making a knocking/clanking sound to the rate of acceleration and RPM, I think its a spun rod bearing. So thats why I plan on pulling the engine. Plus the car has almost a 125k, so I think its time for a rebuild and eventually...turbo but my main focus is the engine at this moment.

Drop the pan and unbolt the rod caps, you'll be able to look at the bearings and check the crank for scoring.

But it definately sounds like bearings.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

Thanks for the replies Michael. If anyone else wants to jump in n throw out some info/background, experience from rebuilding...please feel free. I've been doing quite a bit of searching and using the printer friendly function to print out topics and research. Lots of good info.


96 Talon ESi Mods
GST Muffler
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers

Originally posted by xcasbonx
Thanks for the replies Michael. If anyone else wants to jump in n throw out some info/background, experience from rebuilding...please feel free. I've been doing quite a bit of searching and using the printer friendly function to print out topics and research. Lots of good info. 96 Talon ESi Mods GST Muffler injen short ram intake magnecore 8.5mm wires EGR removal/blockoff front/rear strut tower bars GSX dual piston calipers

Most importantly look for metal shaving in the bottom of the pan once the oil is drained. That is a dead giveaway. Also pulling the rod with the spun bearing will be more difficult thatn the others (still easy tt remove though). The rod and cap will be tight around the crank

Well I got a good start today. Yet I havent check the rods/bearings yet, I started more on getting the engine ready to be pulled. Compression was completed, Ill post the numbers below.

cyl. 1-4 in order...165 - 180 - 190 - 200
after cap of oil in plug well 190-235-230-235....It seems like cyl. #1 might have a problem. Not sure until further inspection is done.

I took off my hood, front bumper, and headlights to give me a lil more room to work with. I pulled the valve cover off, top end looks clean no metal shavings, no sludge, nothing scarred, and all lifters/rockers in working condition. Pulled out the radiator and fans, exhaust manifold, starter, battery and several sensors. I've been labeling all parts Ive taken off and stored together in coffee cans n ziplock bags.

I have a lot of options right now, I've been looking at it as if Im going to take all this stuff out then I should consider all options in adding parts while the engine is out. My old mans been helping me out here n there, hes getting into this as much as I am. He's thinking we should put new cams in as well as have some headwork done, with a 130k on the engine it could use a valvejob and a nice port n polish. For the bottom end, looks like we've decided on getting a built shortblock for a future turbo application. Now this is where Im debating, going wit FTY??? or elsewhere?

This has turned into a big project before I've even realized it...and frankly Im quite psyched up to learn more and tear into it.

Im working on getting a digital camera so I can get some pictures up.


*winter rebuild in process*
GST Muffler
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers

while you got it out might as well do a valve job, and if you want port work nrgyheads.com is one of the best 420a head porters if you want more info hit me up and ill introduce ya to the owner maybe save you a few bucks.

you might want to think about a UDP while its out new timing belt tensioner and idler pulley.

use an OEM metal head gasket!
just call fenton dodge order a bottom end gasket kit and top end 35$ for bottom 80$ for topend

i would do an egr block off and have the intake manifold cleaned and ported too

solid moto mounts are another thing you can do while its out.

along with upgrading the clutch with an aluminum flywheel to rev faster.

Agreed. However, if you can't afford to do it al at once (most of us can't), I suggest getting the bottom end completely rebuilt first. Considering you have to pull the head to pull the pistons, it would suck to have to pull a built head to do the bottom end later.

Keep at it and never give up!

Yeah cylinder 1 doesn't sound happy. When the bearings go 1 and 4 are usually the ones to take major abuse.

FTY does excellent engine builds, so does Howell.

You can hit me up for pricing on head work, cams, clutches and other parts if you want, some of the stuff we have on the site, some hasn't been put up yet, like head work. e-mail is: michael@exileracing.com

Looks like you have a fun projects starting here.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

Yes, it seems I have quite a bit of things goin on all here at once...heres a list of the things I'm looking at doing...

built shortblock from FTY or howell
UDP, new timing belt, tensioner and idler pulley
upgrade motor mounts, energy inserts??? or other means? (that which i dont know)

as for the top end, not sure bout all im going to do yet...

valvejob, new valves
cam gears,
cams (crane? crower?) *will be turbo'd in the future

Anyway, I'll be back at it tonite when I am off work. Will be taking apart PS/AC, and getting things around to have the engine pulled. Im thinking about removing the AC system completely...don't really need it here. Oh and by the way Im an ATX also, no 5spd here. :\



*winter rebuild in process*
GST Muffler
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers

Originally posted by xcasbonx
Yes, it seems I have quite a bit of things goin on all here at once...heres a list of the things I'm looking at doing... built shortblock from FTY or howell UDP, new timing belt, tensioner and idler pulley upgrade motor mounts, energy inserts??? or other means? (that which i dont know) as for the top end, not sure bout all im going to do yet... valvejob, new valves cam gears, cams (crane? crower?) *will be turbo'd in the future Anyway, I'll be back at it tonite when I am off work. Will be taking apart PS/AC, and getting things around to have the engine pulled. Im thinking about removing the AC system completely...don't really need it here. Oh and by the way Im an ATX also, no 5spd here. :\

Your auto can be built up, a higher stall torque converter would definately help you off the line. A shift kit to reduce shift time would help out too. The A604 can be beefed up if you like.

Cams are always a nice kick in the pants. Upgrading the valve springs is a good idea when you do cams. So while the head is part a port and polish would be nice. Of course it all comes down to the cash available.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

I finnaly got some pictures uploaded, not all of em are up yet but heres what I have for now.

top pic of head with valve cover off, I was surpised to see how clean the head was with a 130k on the engine. I dont think the valve cover had ever been taken off. The VC gasket was sealed down good as well.




another top view


Now heres where I have some questions. Here are a couple pics of the valve stems seen through the exhaust port. While inspecting them I noticed that these have some crud/oil on them. The pic below is from cyl 3...


Now this is cyl 1. The stems look like they have been burnt up a lil bit on the sides, where its a brighter white color, compared to the other cylinders which are a darker color. Also cyl 1 was making an air-whooshing sound while testing the other 3 cylinders for compression. It jus seems like cyl 1 was running a lil hotter than the other 3.


In relation to the the valve stems from cyl 1, looking down the plug well to the top of the piston it was a shiny color wit slight oil residue, but the other 3 tops were much darker than the top of cyl 1 wit a darker residue. Im not sure what all that signifies, but I know one things...its getting FIXED. Ill have some more pics up tonite.


*winter rebuild in process*
GST Muffler
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers

here are the pics of the piston tops down the plug wells...

cyl 1


cyl 3



when shining a flashlight and looking down the well you can definately tell the difference. anyone know whats goin on?


*winter rebuild in process*
GST Muffler
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers

Originally posted by xcasbonx
when shining a flashlight and looking down the well you can definately tell the difference. anyone know whats goin on?

Well 1st off looking through the spark plug hole is a very very small area to look through and you'll get a much better view once the head is off.

It's hard to tell from the pics, but maybe it's the fact the the #1 and #3 pistons are on different strokes. For example piston #1 might be at top dead center while piston #3 is at the bottom so the distance you are viewing the pistons at differs.