I know it sounds like a stupid question, but I can't find any colder plugs around my area so I have to use stock NGKs and gap them lower to .35. I usually just push the electrode down onto the cement to lower the gap, but is there a different way.
Alvin

96 RST

Star turbo kit /Starion FMIC / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / Joe P BC / Southland Dual Friction clutch

the way your doing it is the proven and recommended way (although I just use the wood of my work bench).

if you hammer the electrod thing, then are you damaging it?

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

if you hit the electrode, you'll more than likely damage it...but the curve part on the top wont really be hurt...its just a ground
doug

Yep, I use the patented "smash against the concrete" method too. :)

On a side note, BoostedGS, what kind of rims do you have. Ever since I saw them I always have admired them. Also, what shade of red is that?

Originally posted by Breezio
the way your doing it is the proven and recommended way (although I just use the wood of my work bench).

Wow! We use the same method! :D

Originally posted by TXrepresent
On a side note, BoostedGS, what kind of rims do you have. Ever since I saw them I always have admired them. Also, what shade of red is that?

17" Konig Reigns on Cayenne Red.

Thanks!

Semperboost, mabye I missunderstood your post. The heat range of a plug has nothing to do with it's gap. You need to check and regap ALL plugs before installing them on any car.

The heat range of a spark plug is the rateing of how quickly it will remove the heat. It will transfer the heat to the head to cool itself down. Hotter plugs last longer because the heat will burn off the deposits, but could also cause preignition or detonation in a turbo charged motor. Cooler plugs = less chance of detonation, but they will not last as long.

I'm sure you know what the gap is, .03 is good for us running turbo. It will ensure the boost does not blow out the spark.

Thanks folks...I can't find colder plugs (6E-11) than the stock ones (5E-11) I think. And the stock plugs are gapped at .045 so I have to lessen the gap all the time. Now the Autoparts here are starting to not stock NGK plugs...
Alvin

96 RST

Star turbo kit /Starion FMIC / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / Joe P BC / Southland Dual Friction clutch

BFH

Originally posted by Semperboost
Thanks folks...I can't find colder plugs (6E-11) than the stock ones (5E-11) I think. And the stock plugs are gapped at .045 so I have to lessen the gap all the time. Now the Autoparts here are starting to not stock NGK plugs... Alvin 96 RST Star turbo kit /Starion FMIC / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / Joe P BC / Southland Dual Friction clutch

http://sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=bkr7e&x=0&y=0

There ya go! That's what ya need?

Originally posted by JasonESi_T

Originally posted by Breezio the way your doing it is the proven and recommended way (although I just use the wood of my work bench).

Wow! We use the same method! :D

nice, hey.. i was reading your mods.. you put GSX rear discs on your esi? I didn't think you could use rear suspension/brake stuff from GSX's.. only GS-T's..???

GS, GST, and GSX share the same rears.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

Originally posted by jsupetran
GS, GST, and GSX share the same rears.

umm.. that can't be right.. otherwise how come the the rear piping on the exhuast is different on the GSX as opposed to the GS/GS-t...? i thought the suspension was different on the GSX and so the piping had to be run a slightly different route.

i dont see what exhaust routing and suspension would have to do with the brake setups. GS, GST, and GSX have the same rear disc setups. the GSX however has the lovely 2 pot calipers and larger rotors on the front. =)