whats the stock Compression for an eclipse?

i did a test and i think mines 180..

what is everyones at????

also, i had my head milled .010......

shouldent it be higher or am i trippen?

oh, also, on a totaly diffrent note, i think i might have a bad throw out bearing....when my car idles i hear this loud clicking and clanking comming from the tranny, when i push in the clutch it goes away, so when im reving i can kind of hear it.....but the loud noise from the motor covers it up lol =)

can that cause like a misfire type thing, cuz when im driving its it will misfire like bad at like 2-3 1/2 grand, 4 grand and up it does it a little bit but not at bad...its really slugish so i thinken maybe just cuz the clutch is slipping or somthing??? im trippen its going on the shop monday but any ideas????

Originally posted by xtrickedeclipsex
whats the stock Compression for an eclipse? i did a test and i think mines 180.. what is everyones at???? also, i had my head milled .010...... shouldent it be higher or am i trippen?

I think stock compression test numbers run about 190 across the board. What's important, though, is if one cylinder is off by more than, say, 10%. That would indicate a problem in one cylinder and not just all the rings wearing evenly. If all your numbers are about the same, I wouldn't be too worried unless they we below 170 or so. Why did you have your head shaved? If you intended to increase compression, then you likely didn't do it enough, as I think the common job is .010" just to ensure everything's flat and seats properly to the block. Not 100% on that, but I know I have the idea right. :P Also, if you intend to raise compression numbers by milling the head, you will need adjustable cam gears to dial the slack out of the timing belt or you will never get it run right imo.

Originally posted by xtrickedeclipsex
oh, also, on a totaly diffrent note, i think i might have a bad throw out bearing....when my car idles i hear this loud clicking and clanking comming from the tranny, when i push in the clutch it goes away, so when im reving i can kind of hear it.....but the loud noise from the motor covers it up lol =)

Throwout bearing from Mopar is about $45. If you have the tranny out, and you have a modular clutch, this is the easiest thing inthe world to change. Of course, getting the tranny out isn't so easy so...

Originally posted by xtrickedeclipsex
can that cause like a misfire type thing, cuz when im driving its it will misfire like bad at like 2-3 1/2 grand, 4 grand and up it does it a little bit but not at bad...its really slugish so i thinken maybe just cuz the clutch is slipping or somthing??? im trippen its going on the shop monday but any ideas????

If ths happens when you are still getting on or off teh clutch, then it might be clutch rlated, but I assume you wouldn't really be spending too much time at those rpm ranges an not be off the clutch and wholly on the gas. Considering this, I would suggest that before you take your car to the shop, you go to AutoZone and get a set of new plugs and wires (~$40). Most of the time, this solves the misfire. Better to pay $40 yourself than have a shop install your plugs and wires and charge you about $100 to do so.


Good luck with all these little noises and sputter man. I know how much the little crap just grates and grates on you. Take it easy!

Originally posted by DR1665
I think stock compression test numbers run about 190 across the board.

its higher than that. one of my cylinders tested at 210, and i have stock compression and no milling

I dunno man. run4cvr ran 190s across the board over 10,000 miles ago when he just installed his turbo, then just tested it again and pulled down 195s all the way across. :shrug

if ya don't wanna believe me, check out corbin's compression test writeup:

http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/comp.html

stock compresion should be around 210 but im sure it varies. i did a test on mine and had 210 across the board, but one cylinder was at 180. car had 115,000 miles on it then. so i figure one cylinder is going faster than others but who knwos why. oh well, getting new engine soon anyway

side note: yes, thats definitely your throwout bearing.

Originally posted by Eagle 5
so i figure one cylinder is going faster than others but who knwos why.

compression has nothing to do with the speed your pistons are going - only the amount of seal inside the cylinder / combustion chamber

someone correct me if im wrong, im pretty sure im not though

He's not saying one is moving faster he's saying its going out faster.

Originally posted by amljbs
He's not saying one is moving faster he's saying its going out faster.

AHHH, now i understand :thumbsup

Thanks for your help guys, I checked out the plugs and wires, turns out one spark plug was really burnt out, and cylinder 1 wire was almost frayed to bare wire….so I went to auto zone and bought Bosch wires (life time warranty) and NGK iridium plugs…wow what a difference, not only did the miss fire go away, the car runs better then ever clean revs. I love it…the bearing is going to be replaced tomorrow…so all should be well. Thanks for the help

I thought that stock compression should be in the low 200's like 210 or 220 ish... and 180 is the lowest acceptable compression (chiltons said that I think)

I'm probably around 170 across except it feels like one is a lot lower than the others.... I'm waiting for her to stop running and then I'll get a HC rebuild.

Many things effect compression test results. Engine temp, car should be tested hot. The biggest is to get them close to one another.

There are tolerances, that some just get lucky with and all are close from the factory and will get better numbers.

Another factor is altitude. A guy doig a test in Denver will have lower compression numbers than a guy doing the test on the coast at sealevel.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm