Would I benifet from this mod even though I'm not using a turbo or nitrous? Or would it do nothing, or even hurt me. By the way I'm a '95 with no fpr, and an automatic. See my mods below. I'm just wondering because I have an extra 20 feet of 8 guage wire lying in my garage.

i don't think you notice a difference hp wise. You still need to buy a relay, crimps, and other stuff, like a soldering gun.


-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

Truthfully, I don't think you'll benefit any from the rewiring mod with your current setup. It wouldn't hurt anything, but it should ensure a strong +12V supply.

Well, might as well do it then, huh? Can't hurt anything.

i have heard about this mod, but whats the benefit and when do you see it?

Of course, you could also do this and hook up a nice little fuel cut switch sir. Make the car harder to "borrow."

Originally posted by tim97rs
i have heard about this mod, but whats the benefit and when do you see it?

the benefit is when there is load placed on your fuel pump, it will drop the voltage that gets to it and it will not pump as much fuel. when it has a steady voltage, it will run at its peak effiency all the time. it is the same theory as when you have subs and your lights dim. the subs are pulling power from the electrical system and if they pull to much, it pulls from other stuff to get what it wants. you would "see" it all the time. you wouldnt have to worry about running lean under heavy load situations like WOT because the pump cant pump enough. :-)

it wouldnt make you ru any richer, would it?

^^^ That is the problem I'm worring about. I hope it doesn't make me any richer. I think it wouldn't though, but I need clarification. I was thinking of doing this fuel pump rewire mod, wrapping my header and down pipe in exhaust insulator, and maybe adding a new OBX fuel rail all at once. I was hoping for some cheap horsepower. But then I found out I wouldn't benifet from the fuel rail, or the fuel pump rewire mod. So I guess I'll just do the exhaust wrapping only.

If you'd like to pick up a few extra ponies, you ought to look into getting a Jeep tb or maybe porting your own one out a bit. Definitely makes for some decent zip when you jump on the gas.

Originally posted by TXrepresent
Would I benifet from this mod even though I'm not using a turbo or nitrous? Or would it do nothing, or even hurt me. By the way I'm a '95 with no fpr, and an automatic. See my mods below. I'm just wondering because I have an extra 20 feet of 8 guage wire lying in my garage.

...unless you need the extra fuel, because at this point you don't, do not do the rewire. Our cars run rich as it is and the rewire will make it even worse and - here it comes - you will lose power from running too much fuel. If you do the rewire then pick up an AFC and voltmeter then drop 15%+ fuel...end of story

It shouldn't make us run any richer because our cars were designed for the full power of the fuel pump. But if someone knows from experience, that would be very helpful.

On a car that is running within the limitations of its fuel system...rewiring the fuel pump won't make you run any richer. It will likely supply more voltage to the pump. If you are supplying more voltage to the pump, it will spin faster. When the pump spins faster, it supplies more fuel. The fuel pressure regulator will respond to this by bypassing more fuel. The fuel pressure regulator will maintain the fuel pressure. The fuel injectors don't care how much extra fuel is shooting past them. All they care about is the air pressure in the intake manifold runner and the fuel pressure in the fuel rail. They will supply the same amount of fuel as long as manifold pressure and fuel pressure are maintained, even if you increase fuel pump flow.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

^^^ NOW THAT IS THE ANSWER I'M LOOKING FOR. But one problem, 1995 models don't have a fuel pressure regulator. And I'm a '95! So does this mean it will add more fuel to the mixture?

Actually the 1995's DO have a fuel pressure regulator, its just in a different spot.

The problem is that 1996+ don't have a RETURN. I think you could overrun a returnless FPR if you feed it too much pressure? Corbin care to esplain? thanky.

1995 fuel system:

Well, thats good. Looks like I'm going to do the mod this weekend.:thumbsup

Off topic here, but I read your mod list and saw the overdrive pully for your alternator. Does that help, and where did you get it? Thanks.

since he has the under drive pulley, his alternator doesnt get as much umph. the overdrive pulley for the alternator makes it work "harder" so that it keeps the batt charged.

^^^He has the right idea on how it works. But I had a very light weight custom one made for me. It made a pretty good difference, and still doesn't take any horsepower away!

Originally posted by TXrepresent
^^^He has the right idea on how it works. But I had a very light weight custom one made for me. It made a pretty good difference, and still doesn't take any horsepower away!

Wait a second... if you have an UNDER (smaller diameter) drive pulley on the crank... and an OVER (larger diameter) drive pulley on the Alternator then you are getting even less power from it then with only the underdrive. Its probably hardly spinning at all.

Consider this...
A bicycle, a 10 speed, the front is where you pedal, this equates to the Crank. The rear wheel where the power is transfered equates to the alternator.
If you are riding along and you shift to the smaller chainring on the front it is easier to pedal ie less power being transfered.
Now if you are riding and you shif to a larger ring in the back it has the same effect... less power being transfered, ie UNDER driven...
So if you shift to a smaller chainring on the front AND a larger ring in the back then you are getting major underdrive...

SEE??

The only way to retrieve lost power at the alternator would be to use a smaller diameter pulley there... defeating the main purpose of an underdrive pulley.
Now a lighter weight stock diameter pulley would be sweet for the alternator.

It is the stock size, except as I mensioned earlier, it is very light weight.:rolleyes

hey whats that smiley for... I wasnt dissin on you, I was trying to clear up how underdrive/overdrive works hehe.

I want one of those pulleys stock size but way lighter. Think you could get another one made? I am serious about it.

Hit me up on chat or email. Lets make it happen.

Originally posted by djtrickee
hey whats that smiley for... I wasnt dissin on you, I was trying to clear up how underdrive/overdrive works hehe. I want one of those pulleys stock size but way lighter. Think you could get another one made? I am serious about it. Hit me up on chat or email. Lets make it happen.

fuck it, get a bunch made and do a group buy

The guy who made it, Gerald, said it was a pain in the ass. But I'm sure he would do more for the money.

By the way, djtrickee, I was just joking about the smiley face thing. I thought someone would say "owned," like they normally do. HA HA!:)

OWNED!! (is that better)

Can you find out how much it was to make that pulley? Hit me up on chat or email if you wouldnt mind.

Thanks bro,

All years have fuel pressure regulators and return lines.

1995 cars have vacuum referenced fuel pressure regulators. Which means that they change fuel pressure based on intake manifold pressure. Thus, the injectors can supply the same amount of fuel at idle and wide open throttle. The 1995 cars have a prominent return line that comes from the fuel rail and runs the length of the car back to the gas tank.

1996+ cars have a fixed fuel pressure regulator. That means that the fuel pressure stays fixed whether you are at idle or wide open throttle. That also means that the injectors can supply more fuel at idle than at wide open throttle. The ECU knows this and adjusts accordingly. 1996+ cars technically do have a fuel return line. It is just very short and hidden by the gas tank. If you look at your fuel pump assembly, there is a high pressure feed fitting AND a low pressure return fitting. The return is where the return line hooks in (makes sense).

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire