John and I redid the old compression test this afternoon and confirmed one of my greatest fears...

First time - dry
<1>200 <2>185 <3>200 <4>200

Second time - wet <- notice I didn't say "leakdown" again Dino. :P
<1>250 <2>260 <3>250 <4>270

Looks like I will doing a ring job just a few months after I did a complete rebuild. :( I think I will get the Total Seals this time though. And someone who has some more experience to help install them. I don't have to have the cylinders rehoned do I? I would like to just leave the block in the engine and do the ring job while I'm changing out the head during my Stage 1 in a couple months.

Experts... please enjoy a laugh, but know this: I will still be the fastest stock displacement all motor 420A come August. }(

You know that I meant leave the block in the car. I meant to say it like that to be funny and turbo8u is a goof and will post some sarcastic shit after this.

Originally posted by DR1665
I will still be the fastest stock displacement all motor 420A come August. }(

lol, fear strikes my inner most being. lmao

NOOB PWNAGE!

Originally posted by DR1665
I would like to just leave the block in the engine

^^^ good idea brian ;) i'll definately call you when i need to install my piston rings, heh :P



_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home.
chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave.
DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here

Originally posted by sarahdr1665
...some girls like the "nerdy" guys

You should leave the block in the engine. ;) I don't know how you'd get them apart, though. Yes, rehone the cylinders. Just use an electric drill and a ball hone. It'll do the trick, and it can be done with the engine in the engine bay, which I am sure is what you meant. :D I would pull the oil pan and spray each cylinder with brake cleaner after honing them, though, as you don't want grit on your cylinder walls or in your oil.

-=B-=

Thanks Bill. Super fast response!

Am I missing something here? Those numbers wouldn't have me ripping through the guts of my engine to hone and replace rings. Not that bad, really... are you having issues with the engine?

Originally posted by dougie2
Am I missing something here? Those numbers wouldn't have me ripping through the guts of my engine to hone and replace rings. Not that bad, really... are you having issues with the engine?

He rebuilt his bottom end with 10.5:1 pistons. He should have around 240ish psi compression test numbers.

eh, could be some of the heads fault or maybe headgasket? haha (giving you some hope!)

While the head had had nothing done to it (even to reinstall during rebuild), the headgasket was replaced and thehead torqued properly. I'm pretty sure its the rings since I just eyeballed the gaps. I will be getting some Total Seals here before too long so I don't have to worry about it too much. :P Fuck blowby.

You DID do the test with the motor hot, right?

Yep. It wasn't blazing hot, but hot enough that you really didn't want to hang on to the plugs when you took them out. Without the engine starting (during the test) the temp needle was pointing straight at the middle of the C on the gauge. Should I have had this thing at "normal operating temperature?" As in leveled off in the center of the gauge?

Thank you admin2. I think this may mean a ray of hope yet again that it is the head. :thumbsup ...but could engine temps be responsible for such a drastic drop? With 10.5:1 CR, I think I should be pulling down the 240s consistently on this test. However with the forged internals, maybe when they aren't all heated up thoroughly (as in normal op temp), they haven't expanded that extra thou or two to make thigns right...

The emotional rollercoaster continues...

Do the same tests when you have the engine hot, full operation temp.

Those do sound low for your set up. Do you get any piston slap from the engine when it's warm? Do you know what piston to bore clearances were used when you engine was built?



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Originally posted by DR1665
While the head had had nothing done to it (even to reinstall during rebuild), the headgasket was replaced and thehead torqued properly. I'm pretty sure its the rings since I just eyeballed the gaps. I will be getting some Total Seals here before too long so I don't have to worry about it too much. :P Fuck blowby.

You didn't get the head shaved? Or did it meet specs for warpage?

I'm not sure about piston-bore clearances Mike. The machine shop did have the pistons when they did the boring and honing and they said it was a good idea to have them so they could do it right, but then the dude told me to install the pistons the wrong way, so... :rolleyes

As far as slap is conerned, yes they slap around like mad when it's cold. She almost sounds like an old VW Rabbit until she warms up. Once she's warmed up, though, she sounds a lot better. I did notice that taloniized's new block isn't half as noisy when it starts cold as mine is. His was built for him and he has 8.8:1 pistons in there, but maybe this is important too.

The head was not touched or inspected. I had another head and they cleaned it and flow tested it, but they said that half the valves were leaking bad and the other half were on their way. Also said it needed to be milled a bit. I didn't have the money and I had never had any trouble with the old head, so back it went. I'll be getting all the head issues taken care of in the next few months. Getting it all done up ERT stylee.

}(

When warmed up you should get next to no noise at all from the pistons, if the clearances are right. Expect the noice when cold that's not a problem. Did the machine shop have the recommended specs from your piston manufacturer? The machine shop should use the clearances recommended by the manufacturer.



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Yes, they had the spec sheet that came with the pistons. They even put the writst pins or whatever in for me. There was grease on the sheet, so I assumed they handled it. Once it's warmed up, the noise goes away. So I need to redo the dry and wet tests with the engine at full operating temperature then. If run4cvr got stable numbers without being full hot like that, it's because his internals are stock and hold tolerance more when they are cold, right?

I warmed up my car before my comp test. Remember you drove it around the block?

Originally posted by DR1665
Yes, they had the spec sheet that came with the pistons. They even put the writst pins or whatever in for me. There was grease on the sheet, so I assumed they handled it. Once it's warmed up, the noise goes away. So I need to redo the dry and wet tests with the engine at full operating temperature then. If run4cvr got stable numbers without being full hot like that, it's because his internals are stock and hold tolerance more when they are cold, right?

Yes forged pistons have a greater expansion property, that's part of what makes them better. I would try it when the car is warmed up, make sure the noise is gone before you run the compression test, it's worth a shot.

What rings are you using? The machine shop installed and gapped the rings I assume?



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Nope. This was one of the things that pissed me off the most about them. They said they would machine the block and fit the pistons, but they wouldn't install anything that wasn't bought from them to "protect" themselves. I'm sure you have to be real careful when you're dealing with sketchy components from Wiesco and Eagle. :rolleyes

I installed the pistons myself. I eyeballed the ring gaps too. While this is the one area of the rebuild that makes me the most nervous, I did check the gap the right way, by using the piston to press the ring in the cylinder by itself level, and then measure the gap at that point. I have a pretty good background in dealing with tolerances down to .001" and I am pretty good at eyeballing 10, 20, 30 thou. Of course, if I re-ring her this spring, I'll either be going with Total Seals or investing in a feeler gauge. :P

Yeah definately use a feeler gauge, and make sure the ring is dead on perpendicular with the bore when you measure gap.



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I am still a no0b in some respects. :P To think some idiots actually voted for me in the all motor award. :rolleyes

Originally posted by DR1665
I am still a no0b in some respects. :P To think some idiots actually voted for me in the all motor award. :rolleyes

I should delete that... punk.

You've done a very good job gettig the car where it is, we'll get you the rest of the way.



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That's all I ask. Thanks to all!