Sup guys.
This problem is getting very bad!
Let me state my problem first. (this is my g/f eclipse): all stock no mods.

Problem:
ok, when I start the car, it will start right up, but then if I don't give it some gas, it will die right away. so I have to give it some gas for a few mins and it will stay up after warm up. (happen on day time)
Then I can drive the car around and shut it off and on, and so on. it's fine.
Then at nite after the whole car is completely cold down. I start the car again, it will start right up again, but then I have to give it gas again till it warms up.
Sometimes after a while, it won't even stay up, and I have to drive around on Highway for a while before it will stay on.

Changed:
I put new spark wires 6 months ago.
I put new spark plugs 6 months ago.
I put a used alterator from a working eclipse about 1 week ago after this problem started. (problem been around for 2 weeks since winter/weather start cold)

OK, can someone please tell me what's up?
Can it be the alterator is still bad? or battery is bad?

What I am thinking is this:
-just changed a working alterator, should work.
-new spark plugs and wires, so that won't be it.
-can it be the coil pack for the wires?
-can it be the starter? but it start right up, just won't stay up...
-can it be the battery? but if I drive on highway for awhile, it's fine...
-can it be the fuel pump, so no fuel is getting there???

What the problem seem like is that, whenever the engine or weather is cold, it won't stay up.... ???

PLEASE HELP ME OUT!
It's been like this for 2 weeks... so horrible!
Any help is greatly apprecaited!
Gil:bowdown

My car's been doing this for a few weeks now man. I wouldn't worry about it. I just try her by herself about 3 times. If, after that, she still doesn't stay running, I will hold the gas pedal down about a third, and try again. Hold the revs around 2500rpm for a couple seconds. Then let go. If she still dies, you might be more concerned, but there are instructions in the owners manual about what to do if the car doesn't want to start. This is pretty much what they say to do.

Don't worry about too much man. And quit having the same problems I have man. People will start to think things. :P

:thumbsup

I love yer car/sig..Still cant get mine to change..

THanks DR.
But my problem is, I can't even hold the gas pedal down for a few second.
THe BEST time is holding down the gas pedal for a few mins (around 5 minutes)
The normal time is I have to drive around with GAS even if I have to stop for red light.
And worst time, it just won't stay up at all till I got to the destination and I shut off the engine by letting off the gas.
Can someone give me some help on this?
Thanks.

make sure there is no vacumm leaks. if there is, it will bogg the engine out. or maybe the fuel filter is clogged. or maybe the fuel injectors are clogged. damn, no good place to start

My bestguess is your Idle Air Control Motor is stuck, and not adjusting.



http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

Is there any CEL code? If not, then I'd look for a vacuum line break somewhere. The one coming from the top of the throttle body tends to leak or break when it's old. Next, I also suspect it might be a bad I.A.C. See if you can swap your's on your gf's car.

Thanks guys.
But can I ask what is the IAC? and where it is?
Thanks.
Gil

BTW guys....I just remember one MAIN thing.
WHen the car is warmed up or in warmer weather or drove for a LONG time, then it will stay up.

Like last nite, after sitting there for 6 hours, I can't start my car.
This morning, when I go out side, it start RIGHT UP. WTF?
It seems like temperature is doing a GREAT deal here.
SO will this still be the issue of vaccum source leak? or IAC problem?

BTW, I still do'nt konw what is IAC... :wary

Thanks alot guys!
Gil

Ok the IAC-Idle air contol valve-it alows air to bypass the throttle plate and then regulates this air to control idle. this is located on the TB is the largest of the sensors.
One of my friends cars was having a problem like this and where we would have to give it gas to keep it alive it turned out to be a bad Map sensor and a Throttle position sensor.
IF the car has a service engine light on take it to autozone and they will pull the codes for u
stage 4 clutch, aluminum flywheel, solid motor mounts, Phantom grip, phantom boost, egt, a/f, oil psi, apexi TT, Jeep TB, Star stage 2 with custom 3 inch downpipe out passenger side bumper, custom ground kit, falcon azenis, 2 inch drop, eibach camber kit, crank scrapper,AEM cam gear, short shifter, AFX UDP and some other stuff

well, if its a vaccuum leak the cold weather will help mask the problem, as the cold causes the hoses to restrict.

hehe, time to start changing hoses.

I will check it out then.
So I have to replace the Map sensors and the throttle prosition sensor?

Gil

no u dont have to change them if they r bad they will throw a code. Is the service engine light on?

stage 4 clutch, aluminum flywheel, solid motor mounts, Phantom grip, phantom boost, egt, a/f, oil psi, apexi TT, Jeep TB, Star stage 2 with custom 3 inch downpipe out passenger side bumper, custom ground kit, falcon azenis, 2 inch drop, eibach camber kit, crank scrapper,AEM cam gear, short shifter, AFX UDP and some other stuff

no engine light at all....
so what could it be then?

When the car does start and runs, is the idle smooth or lumpy--like a mis-timed engine? Any smoke unusual smoke from the exhaust?

When the car start up perfectly, there are no smoke.
But let me make this in two situations ok.

Both situations are under PERFECT start up ok.
1) Have to keep on gas for a LONG time (long time = 5 to 15 mins) then the RPM will be stable at 750-900RPM)
2) start right up with no stepping on gass needed (or maybe 3-10 seconds of gas), but RPM will be going down to like 350RPM - 500RPM at the first 2-4 seconds (a few sec) then it will go up to like 600-700RPM for a while (like a few more seconds) then will slowly go back up to 800 or 900 RPM.

The above two situations are under: ABLE TO MAKE the car start up without driving on Highway.
If needed to drive around, then even at STOP lights or stop sign or changing Gear from D to R, I HAVE TO GIVE A SLIGHT gas (like at 1000RPM) when applying brake.

So what could it be?
I went to autozone today... Battery is fine, alternator is fine, starter is fine.
WHAT THE HELL????

Gil

i was having a simular issue and xtremeRS sugested replacing the coolant temp sensor, i went and bought it but i havent put it on yet cause my car hasnt done it since

Sup guys.
I just found out one thing...
MOST OF THE LIGHTS in the gauges area are BROKEN!
So check engine light is NEVER on and so forth.

I just drove to Auto zone to check it out using ODB-II.
And reads 3 code.

1) O2 sensor has no activity - so he said and I interpret it as the O2 sensor is no good anymore and I have to replace it or the wiring for it is messed up.
2&3) the same code for 2 times. it's about gas evaporation leak.
And the guy said it's either the evaporation hose is cracked where it connect to the "unit" where it will RE-USE the evap gas for gas efficiency OR the gas cap need replacement.

OK, me and the autozone guys agree that O2 sensor won't do anything to the ENGINE WON"T STAY UP problem since O2 sensor won't work till engine is warm.

So it is most likely the evap leak problem.
But I HAVE TO ASK THIS, WHERE IS THIS "GAS EVAP REUSE UNIT"????
Does any of you konw what I am talking about? about this "UNIT"??

Thanks guys.
please help asap.
Problem is getting worst.
Gil

HELP ME GUYS!
Gil

Gil, I came across this. Check it out: http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=63598&mesg_id=63598&page=

I think this is similar to the problem your experiencing with your gf's car.

what about a egr problem. if for some reason its staying open it will cause the car to stall at idle or anytime the car is at low rpms.


stage 4 clutch, aluminum flywheel, solid motor mounts, Phantom grip, phantom boost, egt, a/f, oil psi, apexi TT, Jeep TB, Star stage 2 with custom 3 inch downpipe out passenger side bumper, custom ground kit, falcon azenis, 2 inch drop, eibach camber kit, crank scrapper,AEM cam gear, short shifter, AFX UDP and some other stuff

it's the O2 sensor.

Who would you rather trust, a parts monkey at AutoZone, or me?

I'll have to agree with Dino on this:D If the O2 sensor is bad, the ecu could be dumping a lot of fuel into the engine, which could affect idle.

damn looks like I need a new O2 also. I have this problem, just not as extreme. RPM would jump all the way down and almost shuts off after I step on it during warm up. Sometimes when I'm boosting real heard, my car would start to run rich, bog and eventually misfire. So hopefully it's just the O2. My af guage won't read right at WOT unless I'm on the highway and going on the gas slowly. As soon as I reach 10psi and over, the a/f guage would jump donw to .1xx.

Originally posted by DarkOne
it's the O2 sensor. Who would you rather trust, a parts monkey at AutoZone, or me?

OK Darkone and Fly1... I did thought about the O2 sensor.
and now you guys mention about the O2 sensor will make the ECU to give more or little gas that effect idle.
But 2 things I am not sure.
1) Why giving it more gas will fix it? should that still make the ECU think it's screwed up?
2) I told the autozone guy to erase all the code, and now, drove for 2 days and no code pop out... how come? ALso, if really O2 sensor problem, how come sometimes it works fine?
Like yesterday and today, it start right up perfectly after I fill up the tank with gas....

I am very lost...and my g/f is like bugging me... her car is not drivable! Please help!

Ok, if it is REALLY the o2 sensor... how can I check it? use a voltmeter and see if it cycle from .1 to .9 at idle? like my A/F gauge? will that work? please help guys!
Gil

if it was a O2 sensor wouldnt he not have a problem as soon as it starts up sence the O2 doesnt affect anything till its warmed up and before it gets wormed up it goes by settings in the ecu.

could it possible be a stuck open egr i mean if its open at idle ur car will stutter and die if u give it some gas u should be fine. and as far as a code goes i dont have a egr on my car and dont have a code for it.


stage 4 clutch, aluminum flywheel, solid motor mounts, Phantom grip, phantom boost, egt, a/f, oil psi, apexi TT, Jeep TB, Star stage 2 with custom 3 inch downpipe out passenger side bumper, custom ground kit, falcon azenis, 2 inch drop, eibach camber kit, crank scrapper,AEM cam gear, short shifter, AFX UDP and some other stuff

OK guys..
as I said, I went to autozone, pull the code then they deleted all of them.
SO my check engine light is off. and it Stayed off for the past week already.
But my car is still having the idle problem....
Now I really think it's the IAC.

Can someone PLEASE give me a hint on where is the IAC?
I know it's on the intake manifold of the throttle part.
but which or where it is? I don't know how it looks and so on.
Can someone post a pic and circle the IAC part. THANKS ALOT!!

It's over a month now...
please help guys! (any help is appreciated!)
Gil

Are you just going to ask questions or are you actually going to go out there and fix the car?

YES, an O2 sensor will affect idle. I'm not going to explain it to you because i'm busy and don't have time. Just write it off that you're wrong. Replace the damn thing.

Dino is right, I've had my front o2 sensor giving goofy voltages before. Shuts the car off when started and right after load. I think the CEL was p0171 for system too lean bank 1 or something like that. New sensor fixed the problem right up

OK guys..
I will give it a shot!
THanks.
GIl

OK guys..
I will give it a shot!
THanks.
GIl

Is the problem fixed yet? Mine has just gotten to that point. But I also want to know if that affected my car to start running lean and misfiring too.

LET ME TELL YOU, UNTIL I POST AGAIN,... THAT FUCKING PROBLEM CANNOT BE FIXED...and it's NOT JUST A CEL CODE OK.

I CAN"T EVEN DRIVE THE CAR, coz it WON"T STAY ON!!!
SHIT!
Gil

and my own Eclipse (red and turbo) it's oil leaking...not leaking....SPRAYING....
so I can't drive it either...sigh.
GIl

first of dude, did you even go out and get a new O2 like everyone's been telling you? While you're out there get yourself some Midol too. All you other guys, do you think this Denso O2 will work? It seems too cheap to be true. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46097&item=2450935261

what is Midol??
Gil

just go to Autozone and tell the guy you need some midol.

Can I know what midol is for?

ALso, after I replaced the engine light light bulb.
2 days ago, the light came back on.
So yesterday, we went to the autozone again, and the code that was pull out was ONLY for eval leak. NOTHING about o2 sensors.
So now, I think that code was in there for over a LONG TIME ago (maybe even before I bought the car)

Gil

This thread is getting hijacked by me, because I believe your problem is the o2 sensor even though you aren't doing much too solve it. 87 bucks for a universal bosch o2 sensor from autozone and 127 bucks for a stock one! Anyone here know where I can get a cheaper o2 sensor that performs just as well?

i recomment midol. i hear great things about that product. it should help ALOT!

buy midol here:
http://www.midol.com/



-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

HAHAHAHAHA! Nice.

Spent 2 hours on it trying to solve the problem.
I will hvae to wait 1 week to be CONFIRM that the problem is COMPLETELY FIXED...
By then, I will let you guys kno wwhat I did!
Thanks.
Gil

haha, this thread made me laugh (the midol part that is) dude I guarantee it is the o2 sensor, obviously it is a problem w/ it, b/c the code for it came on. whether or not it is on now or not, b/c I dont think the code will come on for it until the car is "warmed up", b/c at idle the o2 sensor isnt needed. just my .02, keep us informed..peace

well i am having the same basic problem

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=33&topic_id=2461&mesg_id=2461&page=

there is my thread about it, can anyone help? is the O2 sensor failure a common problem? i do believe that is the code i am getting, but there is also the TSB about the connector on the left side frame rail which would cause the same problems, i just want to be 100000% sure.....thanks guys

hey gil just wondering if you fixed it, if your still having the issue or what. and if it is fixed did you replace the o2 sensor?

holy double post

SUP EVERYONE!
I fixed the problem.
NOTHING to do with O2 sensor ok!

the approach I did to fix the problem is basically carbon built up in IAC and intake throttle area.
I took the IAC off, and clean both intake throttle and IAC with Carb cleaner.
Clean them GOOD then put everything back.
Now the car starts right up!

I hope the above helped!
Gil

Old post! I can tell you that a bad sensor isn't the solution, I actually had to drive my car with a varified bad sensor and the car started and ran fine for a week. I did this when I was swapping my header with the greddy, my stock 02 sensor wouldn't come off the stock downpipe, so I went ahead and unplugged it from the engine, installed my greddy header and popped in the bad 02 sensor. I was later able to take my good sensor off my stock down pipe and install it to the greddy pipe.