Alright, I really cannot make up my mind.

Im gonna get the bottom end kit from howell, but I cant decide if I want to go low compression and later go turbo, or go high compression and stay all motor.

If I go the turbo route, Ill spend way more. Kit + Machining + gaskets + turbo kit + gauges and turbo related stuff
If I go all motor, Im just looking at the kit + machining + gaskets and whatever other bolt ons I do.

I know Ill be able to afford the bottom end and also all the stuff to get the motor back in working order, but I am not sure if i can save enough money to get all the turbo stuff.

If I went with the 12.5 to 1 pistons, what other stuff would I have to do to be able to use them(fuel system, computer, cams, cam gears????) to get the full potential of the high compression?

Any suggestions on this topic would be greatly appreciated

Thanks guys

It's a matter of personal preference. What do you want do you want all motor or turbo.

A lot of guys will say go turbo. it is a bit easier and in the end cheaper power.

I of course am going to spend the extra money and build high compression NA. Cams, head work, porting polishing will really bring out the high compression power

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

So, say I want to go all motor, with the high compression pistons.

What do I have to upgrade to run those pistons?????

You should be able to run the high compression rebuild kit from howell and just drop in the motor.

Now, from there, I can recommend a lot as far as what else to do for power. How far NA do you want to go? Do you have emission where you live?

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

No emission where I live. I plan on getting an UDP, cam gears, header and cat back for sure. Do I have to upgrade(or should I?) the fuel system?

Thanks for all the help

Oh, One more thing. My motor has 93,000 on it. Should I get new valves, springs, etc or just get a valve job done?

Thanks

Sorry about the triple post.

The thought crossed my mind about going with oversized pistons. would this provide a good power gain?

Later

What I suggest:

Header and cat-back exhaust, high flow cat if you want.

55mm TB, ported/polished intake manifold.

if you want to keep stock cams go cam gears and a mild porting polishing on the head, gasket match the ports, and a 3 angle valve job.

If you want to go with some wilder cams go with a more extreme porting and polishing on the head, again full gasket matching, cam gears, cams, valve springs, new PT Cruiser lifters and rockers. 3 or 5 angle valve job.

When you've gotten to this point I would suggest an S-AFC w/ EGT and A/F Meter fo tuning. and possibly some slightly larger injectors now, like a 330

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

So with all that done what kind of Hp numbers are we talking about here? How about torque?


Mod List:
-NGK BKR5E-11 Plugs
-Magnecore 8.5 Wires
-AEM CAI(thanx to endless73)
-GS-T Muffler
-Upper Front Strut Bar
-Custom Short Shifter!

What is the HP I would be looking at with all these things?

Im going with the 12.5 to 1 pistons with the howell kit, 55mm TB, ported intake manifold and head, short ram intake, 3 angle valve job, UDP, header and cat back.

I thought maybe 180???

Just a ball park figure.

Thanks guys

My goal is 200 to the wheels all motor. I am talking 12:1 pistons, thinner HG, WILD Billet cams, Full port, polish, 5 angle valve job, Stand alone EMS to raise the Red line. I think you est. is pretty close.



http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

If you guys intend on doing all this work, why not investigate doing a stroker motor? I do not mean the stratus block either. I mean using custom rods/pistons and going to a 2.2l. This in itself would give a great deal more power and make every other mod you make that much better. You would also get a much better torque band to make up for all the low end you are going to lose with all these crazy mods to retain daily drivability. If I were to do it, this would be the first thing I would look into.

MuRiX
97 Eclipse GS HRC Stage IV+
Sitting and collecting dust most of the time..
A.D.P.
http://www.murix.com

Well, I planned on going .20 over with the pistons. Does somebody sell this kit?? Any more info??

Chris, Do you know of anybody good that could custom fab all the work? new crank, rods, etc? If I knew of someone good to do the work, i would look into it depending on cost.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads