I have a 95 eclipse GS with the following mods:
AFX UDP, AEM CAI, MSD ignition coil pack, Iridium plugs, 4-1 headers, Thermal Research Cat-back exhaust, High flow cat converter...

I was looking to get the crane stage 1 cams here: http://www.cranecams.com:/import/mitsubishi.htm

I have a few questions:



With my supporting mods will I see good gains?

Will I need to replace my valve springs/retainers? (I already have somewhat new OEM ones)

How hard is it to install the cams? Do I have to mess with the timing, or can I just drop in the 2 cams?

Will I ever pass PA Emissions?x(

Where's the best place to buy em? (or different cams you recommend)



Sorry for all the questions, but I wanted to ask all at once.

Thanks!

Q. With my supporting mods will I see good gains?
A. Search.

Q. Will I need to replace my valve springs/retainers? (I already have somewhat new OEM ones)
A. Search -but no.

Q. How hard is it to install the cams? Do I have to mess with the timing, or can I just drop in the 2 cams?
A. Search - but your timing wont get messed up if you know what you are doing, but if you dont know what you are doing, try searching.

Q. Will I ever pass PA Emissions?
A. #10's are nothing i would be worried about when it comes to emissions.

Q. Where's the best place to buy em? (or different cams you recommend)
A. Buy them straight from Crane.

get stage 2 cams if going crower if not get #14 or 16 cams dont waste money on small cams that will dissapoint you.

Bill

^^ agreed. from shopping around it looks like all cams cost around $400. if you're gonna do it go for 16's. i'm prolly doing these or 18's. they cost the same.

if you go with either of these you'll prolly want to do some fuel system work before hand. in the case of the 18's i'd want stronger valves because the overlap is so much that the exhaust valves are open during combustion.

the 18's are getting to where highercompression is to be needed the valves will not have a problem being strong enough to take the loads.

18's have a lopey idle which most people think is cool some people are scared of it.

stage 2 crowers or 14-16's are good for most applications

Bill

timing wont get messed up??? please explain this one to me. When I pulled my engine apart it required me to remove the timing belt and cam gears to pull out the camshafts. How is it possible to do this and still not have to screw with the timing?

hw can timing get messed up if the part is supposed to work in a 420a motor

the only way with cams you can mess up timing is by not installing them properly.

I think you guys missed his question.

Yes you have to redo the timing on the engine to install the cams. The timing belt has to come off as part of the installation.

The Crane 10's and Crower Stage 1's are a very mild cam, very street oriented. Crower Stage 2's or Crane 16's are getting better.

I have Crower Stage 2's, I'm very pleased with them. I think with proper tuning you could get stage 2's to pass emissions. With my ported head and the cams I failed, but not by as much as I expected.

I ran around for some time with Crower 2's and stock valvetrain. You could ungrade when you have to do a head gasket (most of us do, hehe). Stock valves, springs, retianer will hold it. At like 18's or higher, Stage 3, definately get valve springs. On 16's and Stage 2's I'd upgrade when it is convenient to do so.

We(ERT) can definately get you the Crower's, the Cranes, our supplier is picky on grind, etc. But I'm working on other sources.



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una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

Doesnt it also matter if he plans to go turbo. Arent 14's designed for turbo applications. So he wouldnt want that if hes never going turbo. Or is this wrong? If he is turbo, or say plans to go turbo, which cam is the best? Or the other way around if he plans to stay NA whats best?

you want less overlap with turbo cams so the bigger the cam you get the more you ahve to tune out the overlap meaning turn the cam gears so both valves aren't open at the same time as n/a motors love

so if you plan on going turbo id stay with 16's or lower to make it easier on the tuner.

i agree with ^^ saying 18's isa time for crane springs.

yes when installing cams you must remove the timing belt and essentially retime the cams..

i just bought some crower stg2's. are these gonna be good for my turbo app?.

Originally posted by MotoFool
you want less overlap with turbo cams so the bigger the cam you get the more you ahve to tune out the overlap meaning turn the cam gears so both valves aren't open at the same time as n/a motors love so if you plan on going turbo id stay with 16's or lower to make it easier on the tuner. i agree with ^^ saying 18's isa time for crane springs. yes when installing cams you must remove the timing belt and essentially retime the cams..

im sorry to say this man but why would you say that you need to redue the timing... ? For owning/owned your own car buisness this is something you should know

Originally posted by PowerEclipses

Originally posted by MotoFool you want less overlap with turbo cams so the bigger the cam you get the more you ahve to tune out the overlap meaning turn the cam gears so both valves aren't open at the same time as n/a motors love so if you plan on going turbo id stay with 16's or lower to make it easier on the tuner. i agree with ^^ saying 18's isa time for crane springs. yes when installing cams you must remove the timing belt and essentially retime the cams..

im sorry to say this man but why would you say that you need to redue the timing... ? For owning/owned your own car buisness this is something you should know

if you think you can install new cams in any position that you please and not atleast timed to zero(not retarded or advanced) or what it was in the past then you sir will have some bent valves.

if you read what i said you must retime the cams and if you do not understand i can explain it in more simple terms.

Originally posted by Drewcool2
I have a 95 eclipse GS with the following mods: AFX UDP, AEM CAI, MSD ignition coil pack, Iridium plugs, 4-1 headers, Thermal Research Cat-back exhaust, High flow cat converter... I was looking to get the crane stage 1 cams here: http://www.cranecams.com:/import/mitsubishi.htm

Originally posted by Drewcool2I have a few questions: With my supporting mods will I see good gains?

With the mods you have I would look at the 14's or 16's, but I would recommend adding a 55mm TB with both cams. I would like some more airflow mods for the 16's.

Originally posted by Drewcool2 Will I need to replace my valve springs/retainers? (I already have somewhat new OEM ones)

Not retainers, but you should put in the springs at the sametime.

Originally posted by Drewcool2 How hard is it to install the cams? Do I have to mess with the timing, or can I just drop in the 2 cams?

If you have not installed a set of cams before I recommend you get someone to help you. The timing is set with the factory marks, so just follow the instructions for timing stock cams.

Originally posted by Drewcool2 Will I ever pass PA Emissions?x(

If you can keep the vaccum levels similar to stock, the will probably pass. That is what Dave and Pat at Crane have always told me, but we have never tested them for emissions. We did alot of their beta testing on the cams, but we only did performance.

Originally posted by Drewcool2 Where's the best place to buy em? (or different cams you recommend)

We think we are the best place to buy them. We are one of the only stocking dealers for them by Crane. I saw someone recommended you buy them direct from Crane, but you do they will charge you full retail. They do that to refer you to their dealers like us.

Originally posted by Drewcool2 Sorry for all the questions, but I wanted to ask all at once. Thanks!

That is the only way to learn is by asking.

Thanks for all the answers!

not trying to post whore or anything...but with my crower 2's I have a very shitty idle. This has been linked to my 2 inches of vacuum my car has as we speak, and the vaccum is supposedly related to the overlap od the cams. Can anyone else here with stage2's relate to this problem?

are you sure your timing is right?

2lbs of vacume dont sound very healthy

Originally posted by MotoFool
are you sure your timing is right? 2lbs of vacume dont sound very healthy

Crower 2's have somethingto the tune of 24* of cam overlap. They don't make good vacuum on any of the cars i've seen them on. If you want it to improve, use your adjustable cam gears to dial some of the overlap out.

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by MotoFool are you sure your timing is right? 2lbs of vacume dont sound very healthy

Crower 2's have somethingto the tune of 24* of cam overlap. They don't make good vacuum on any of the cars i've seen them on. If you want it to improve, use your adjustable cam gears to dial some of the overlap out.

^ yup. Vacuum doesn't exist on my car, I get low vacuum with cams and head porting. S-AFC can elp the car deal with that low level of vacuum, cleaning up that idle.



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una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm