earlier this year i removed my whole factory exhaust with headers and put in a straight pipe al the way back from the pacesetter headers (no cat) sounded like a crappy honda really raspy ,finally exhaust wrapped it wrapped the exhaust when i just start it its still sounds like shit but when it warms up its sounds like a ferrari testarossa ,well pretty close ,,,coolest thing about it now though when i spray my buddy says he sees a litttle light and a small flame from the tail pipe when its dark ,i think this is the coolest part newest news now down to 14.4 75 shot with fancy crome wheels and my sub my beats plus passenger seat (girl friend) ps had to put it back in

By "stright pipe" do you mean no muffler either? Or just bypass the cat? I will doing a similar setup this spring and am curious.

Also, how far down did you wrap the exhaust? Just the headers? All the way? I'm curious here.

Thanks.

Exhaust wrap is good stuff. :thumbsup

My heatshield cracked so I took it off my stock header and then noticed my car sounding like a honda. So I wrapped the header and then the exhaust note sounded deeper and their was a noticeable power change.

Wrap helps you in two ways: 1) keeps the exhaust hot, which flows faster 2) keeps your engine bay cool (which results in cooler air intake)

Heh, I can literally touch my exhaust manifold when I just get done driving, which helps when working on the car.

Originally posted by WickedESi
Wrap helps you in two ways: 1) keeps the exhaust hot, which flows faster 2) keeps your engine bay cool (which results in cooler air intake)

lol, the intake air isnt much colder.

heat wrap works though yea because like ^^^ said, its hotter and hot exhaust gas flows faster. heat wrap the downpipe on a turbo car and you'll be smilin for days



_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home.
chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave.
DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here

"drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

where can i find this exhaust wrap?

DEI
Design engineering inc.

Nick
97RS

turbo8u> shut your SUCK
ZAO684: NIPPLE warning...maybe>?

how many feet did it take to get everything from the header to the muffler? shoot me an estimate. thanks.

250 ft of 2" wide wrap probably. I got mine off eBay.

:thumbsup That's about 15 feet and um... 5 beers.

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by WickedESi Wrap helps you in two ways: 1) keeps the exhaust hot, which flows faster 2) keeps your engine bay cool (which results in cooler air intake)

lol, the intake air isnt much colder. heat wrap works though yea because like ^^^ said, its hotter and hot exhaust gas flows faster. heat wrap the downpipe on a turbo car and you'll be smilin for days _________ 96 talon esi-t san clemente, ca DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home. chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave. DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here "drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

yup since its gotten colder out my car isn't as loud. anybody else noticed

Dan WTH is that on your exhaust side of the turbo?
Also, Ive been stuck and podering this back and forth. Covering the turbo will keep heat in. Hence faster exhaust gas velocity and everything mentoined. Only thing keeping me from completely covering it is the heat on the bearings and seals. I know they can take a alot but when you enclose the turbo it is greatly incresed. I have been thinking about this for over a year on and off. So some comments are welcomed.

sorry bout the hi jack, its relevant though, sisnt it?

It's exhaust housing insulation, you can get it on eBay, and I think summit and jcwhitney have it too. I couldn't tell you from experience but I'd say go for it if you have a turbo timer.

Originally posted by Chamuko
Also, Ive been stuck and podering this back and forth. Covering the turbo will keep heat in. Hence faster exhaust gas velocity and everything mentoined. Only thing keeping me from completely covering it is the heat on the bearings and seals. I know they can take a alot but when you enclose the turbo it is greatly incresed. I have been thinking about this for over a year on and off. So some comments are welcomed. sorry bout the hi jack, its relevant though, sisnt it?

you make a very good point here. i personally wouldnt wrap the exhaust housing, i'd just wrap the downpipe. the point is to get the exhaust out as fast as possible

so imo, the extra heat would just fuck over the turbo in the long run



_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home.
chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave.
DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here

"drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

Originally posted by Chamuko
Dan WTH is that on your exhaust side of the turbo?

It's basically thick foil, with an asbestos pad underneath it. It doesn't completely wrap the exhaust housing, just covers it on top. I was originally concerned that the turbo would create too much heat and mess up the paint on the valve cover and hood. Keep in mind this was the first year HRC turbokits were available, and not much was known then. RRE said it would be good to keep as much heat in the exhaust system as possible, and let it dissipate outside the engine compartment.

I specifically asked them if it would melt or crack the turbo or exhaust housing and they said no. It didn't cause any damage for the year I had it on there.

Anyways, I had a bad exhaust leak at the downpipe, so it torched and shredded that pad and I no longer use it.

ha ha I was thinking the same thing about the foil. but asbestos - NOOO!!!!! sorry, u guys know how I am

Originally posted by ez
asbestos - NOOO!!!!! sorry, u guys know how I am

What do you think that exhaust wrap is made out of?

I suppose you'd be really happy to learn that I removed all that wrap with bare hands and no mask. You shoulda seen all the particles in the air... looked like I'd just shook out a rug.

Oh, and for dinner that night, I had pizza microwaved in a styrofoam takeout box. :9

Originally posted by thedawg

Originally posted by ez asbestos - NOOO!!!!! sorry, u guys know how I am

What do you think that exhaust wrap is made out of? I suppose you'd be really happy to learn that I removed all that wrap with bare hands and no mask. You shoulda seen all the particles in the air... looked like I'd just shook out a rug. Oh, and for dinner that night, I had pizza microwaved in a styrofoam takeout box. :9

You mean all those particles floating around when I was wrapping my exhaust was asbestos? I was coughing that stuff up for days :o

i wrapped from the end of the headers back to the rear of the car ,i did not wrap headers ,all in all wraped 10 linear feet of exhaust ,still have a muffler out back

i ordered 50 ft. of 2" wrap last week, which i thought would cover from the DP to the muffler, but i was apparently way off. i dont plan on purchasing any more, so what part of the exhaust system would be suggest to wrap if you cant wrap all of it?

Yeah I keep a steel shield, but thats it. Actually inssulating it would be something i am no looking foward to. Besides isnt something like 80% of heat radiated anyways? It did help a lot. Ill show it at the next meet.

is it possible to spray paint the wrap itself so it atleast matches ure engine bay... I think the stuff is great but it looks ugly as hell IMO... or is there a place that sells different colors (or just black), Ive looked but cant find anything...
:thumbsup

Yes you can spray paint it. It'll smell funny, but it'll hold color.

Mine is colored with a nice burnt oil color- to match the rest of my engine bay.

Edit:
I didn't actually paint it. I have enough random oil spraying around my engine compartment that it's taken on the color of Mobil1 10w-30 all on it's own. But you can still paint it if you really want to.

Whatd u use to paint it, just outta curiosity?
Plus my car always smells like ass anyways (gas, oil, coolant) so i dont think Id mind some paint, itll be a nice change...
:thumbsup

how much exhaust wrap do you think i'll need to just cover my greddy header(which i just orderd, lol)?? thanks for the help.
-98talonESi

i thought this could be bad over long periods of time. due to the fact that this holds in water and such and will lead to quicker oxidation of the metal.

i've never tired this. i'm just saving up for a good ceramic coating.

Originally posted by ryan_siefring23
i thought this could be bad over long periods of time. due to the fact that this holds in water and such and will lead to quicker oxidation of the metal. i've never tired this. i'm just saving up for a good ceramic coating.

holds in water :wary ??? um, not really. the metal wont oxidize as long as hot exhasut gas is flowing through it. hotter exhaust gases flow faster, giving u more hp obviously becasue thats the point of a higher flowing exhaust. ceramic coating is good too though, i have it on my downpipe.

IMO just wrap the downpipe starting at the turbo and ending at the cat (or straight pipe :))



_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home.
chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave.
DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here

"drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

Is Fiberglass Exhaust Wrap any good? Which is better, fiberglass wrap or ceramic wrap?

so, would it be better to wrap from the beginning of the downpipe to the greddy EVO can on the rear, or just to the cat? i need opinions.

Like the title says. But are these any good?

In order of effectiveness:

1) Header to Cat to Muffler
2) Header to Cat
3) Header

I recommend just doing the header, dp, and cat, it wouldn't be worth doing the cat-back.

i knew i always loved you wicked. (completely heterosexually ofcourse. :love )

;)

Does ANYONE know if the fiberglass wraps are good?

Originally posted by TXrepresent
Does ANYONE know if the fiberglass wraps are good?

Mine was fiberglass, I was thinking he was saying that the fiberglass kind has asbestos in it. (I didn't know there was two kinds.)

The fiberglass kind works for sure :thumbsup

ok so mabye i'm blind but i saw the question asked earlier in this thread and i don't think it was answered. how many feet of exhaust wrap would it take to wrap header, downpipe, and cat? i'm quite interested in this.:thumbsup

250FT

n00b question: is the wrap self adhesive or what? i like my header way to much to glue ish onto it...lol

No, it's like sports bandage, it has an elasticity to it so that you are just suppose to wrap it tight. When you get to the very end, don't bother with clips that could tear or come off, just tuck the edge underneith part of the wrap.

got any extra? ;)

Sorry bro, if I had any more than just what's on my header I would be doing my downpipe and cat.

just wondering if any one out there has a twin muffler setup ,i am thinking about this and how difficult it is since we have such small clearence around the spare tire well ,i was actually thinking of bashing in or cutting off the well ,any ideas:9

Originally posted by tonyz007
individualy grounded hotter plugs

This is off topic, but i noticed this in your signature.... HOw do you go about "individually grounded plugs"? Considering each plug screws into the cylinder head, which is attatched to the block, which is then grounded to the frame.... the way i saw it is each plug has to be grounded to even spark, and it gets its own ground on the cylinder head?

Correct me if im missing something, and this isnt intended to flame, just curious if im about to learn something new.

the cylinder head which is aluminum and is only grounded as far as i know in one place where as my plugs were individually grounded put a wire loop on each spark plug before screwing it in then run that wire to a distribution block then to the negative on the battery , i tested the resistance a bout a year ago between the cylinder head and neg then between the wire loop and the negative , there is a lot less resitance with the loop there fore there is more spark energy,,guys our head has a very weak ground this not only grounds the spark plugs but also the heads resitence dropped:)