Im sending off my head today to get stage 2 head work done on it. 3 angle valve job, porting, intake porting, the works. I was wondering why not raise my compression milling the cylinder head deck? Is this safe, and or can anyone tell me the piston to valve clearance so ic an figure out if its safe or "possible"?????


any info is great

milling the head to get higher compression has been done before. You can't mill it that much though, so I think the increase is like half a point?

I'm not sure, I don't remember exactly, but if you're planning to ever go turbo, it could cause problems.

thanks, but does any one have any more info?
i need to let the head shop know soon..thanks

You'll also need to buy adjustable cam gears. The ribs on the timing belt will not lign up with the teeth on the gear while the timing marks aligned. The belt is made to have a specific tension when putting it on and the ribbs should just fall into the teeth on the cam gears. when you lower the head by milling it and go to put the belt on, the belt ribs will not line up with the cam gears because the top end now sits a little lower, the rib on the belt will now want to fall on top of the cam gear tooth insted of in between.
peace

if you need to have the head milled to flatten it out how much of a problem will that cause?

hmm but won't the tensioner make up for that extra slack? heh I hope the shop I took it to didn't mill my head, I know for sure they resurfaced it but my compression is like 270 now and b4 it was 250 hmm O_o

Not sure how far they can go with it really, before it causes problems. The tensioner wont help it, It is difficult to explain, Say you took the took the timing belt off only the cam gears and had something hold it up while you switched the stock head with one that was milled. When you go to put the belt back on, the head is now a tiny tiny bit lower so the ribs on the bely will not fall into place like they should w/o turning the gears a little. It's not much but enough to keep you from ever getting your timing correct w/o adjustable gears. I've never researched it, but im sure you can find alot on this subject online.
Hope this helps

where are you getting your head work done and how much are you spending on it?

http://www.chrracingproducts.com/

there awsome..there based out of CO

and i piad 500 for the port, 150 for the new vavle train, and 50 for proting asnd polishing of TB and intake ma.

he did the works for around 750


he splits shipping costs to

check em out...i get my head back in like a week i cant waite

i STILL NEED TO NO ABOUT MILLING MY HEAD..ANYONE!?

If you just get your head milled enough to make sure its completly flat (decked) then you will not need adjustable cam gears since they only take a tiny bit off. If you get it milled enough to actually lower your compression you will need adjustable cams. The tensior will not take care of it.

I dont think that the tiny amount of metal they will remove will affect anything. Try doing a search!

I had mine resurfacedand cleaned. and I am at 240compression

Rockin the INDY DSM club