woohoo well finally got myself one of these magical boxes for 125 too ^_^. Just curious but does ne1 know why 3G eclipses have to use this chip thing with hella resitors soldered onto it? I got the thing from a 3G GT guy, but I took the chip off cuz he said I didn't need it.

oh yes so if ne1 asks in the future here are the wires you gotta tap into and stuff, I had to figure it out would be nice if there was something that said so.
SAFC ECU
---- ----
black - black
red - Black/ white stripe
brown - MAP- yellow/ black stripe (cut)
white - MAP- Yellow/ black stripe (cut)
green - White

are those the correct wires? the car seems to run fine.

anyway after the installation which was fairly simple cept for the mystery power wire I was looking for that darkone indirectly helped me find I finally got it running. there are like no specific instructions on how to install a safc in our cars also, all the links in the mods section are dead. But thanx to the diagram or corbin's that was still up there I managed to figure it out.

Do you really have to rev the hell out of the engine to tune it? I'm afriad to rev it to like 5k rpm for a long period of time.

I started tuning the lo throttle for .93v in all rpm ranges didn't quite get to 5k yet.

do these numbers sound right, I have a 95 with a NA engine with 30lb mustang injectors.
1k - +20%
2k - +19%
3k - +16%
4k - -3%
4.5k - -8%
5k - -9% (I haven't really done these last ones yet I kinda guessed)
6k - -11%
7k - -13%

its set at 6in and 6out, 35%lo thr and 50% full

is there suppose to be that big a jump from 2k to 3k? So what does the percentages mean? More fuel or less fuel like +20 or -20? I'm kinda confused. I'm guessing - means richer? O_o I was moving them all over the place b4.

anytips on tuning or how to use the thing? As you've guessed I'm a total dunce when it comes to fuel tuning.

ALso will I be able to smog with this? hehe I'll just have to :P

dyno with wideband, only way to tune it
and to me your +values from 1 to 3K your probably running soooo rich its not even funny, esp with the injectors you have.

without a wideband you have no idea if your rich/lean at anything other that WOT

ahhh I almost blew my engine. Might be blown already but I tried tuning it again and it would give me these different reading everytime. I tried driving it and tuning it and it would give me too lean or too rich. Then I read the manual, which was the wrong one it was for a vtec controller or something but it looked similar and it didn't say anything about a grey TPS wire. I was wondering why it said throttle check and I tried reading the TP on the safc and nothing. So I installed it wrong. Well that's what I get for installing it myself and not being able to find any instruction for our car.

Didn't anyone think it was wierd how I didn't mention the TPS wire on my post? I know a lotta u guys have safc's c'mon :(

anyway add another one wire to that
grey = brown/ red wire

I hope I didn't jack up my engine that's what I get for not installing my egt gauge on my stock manifold. :(

well started tuning it again and while driving for lo throttle I got something like
1k - +24
2k - +30
3k - +34
4k - +36

at 4k it goes really rich and jerks back don't know what could it be the fmu? maybe I should just take the disc out of the fmu O_o

is 35/50 good for throttle? I think its way too close, I wish I had someone who knew what they were doing with me :(

does that look right? up is rich, down is lean right?

for like 1k or 2k lo throttle should I tune it in 3rd gear or just neutral because I don't really drive that high a gear at that rpm.

double post -_-

www.armond30.com

In the tech section, there is an sAFC how-to.

-=B-=

hmm I found this site, it for tuning a 1G turbo or 2G turbo I think I'll try this out seems easier. just sounds complicated.

http://home.comcast.net/~tarryo/kyle/tuning.html

now I have a datalogger but the laptop kind what I wanna look for is (when setting the lo thrt on safc):
SHRT FT 1
LONG FT 1
right?

I just need to adjust the value so the % is as close to zero as possible for a certain rpm.

they mention some addition method, by adding the STFT and LTFT together you get a tuning value and you tune according to that.

so for example: (+20) + (-3) = its +17% so its too lean
so I gotta press up a couple times to make the number closer to zero
so basically +X% = press up and -X% = press down
until i can get it to close to zero.

or do I only have to look at one of the fuel trims? that guide is kinda confusion. Well I'll take a crack at it tommorow.

are you tuning this for a turbo engine? if you are then, running anything + is bad. well was for me. map was getting too high of voltage. and i dont go more then -4 on any settings. i would just tune with the sfmu if you have one. and buy a a/f gauge. greddy makes a good one.

yeh I'm beginning to think I shoulda gotten a sfmu instead. :( ok I'll take not of that. Its a NA engine right now but I don't think the value should differ too much from a turbo engine just the high setting will be different. I'm trying to get it to where I can smog it but if I can't then I'll just throw on the stock injectors.

so if I set all the lo and hi setting to ZERO it'll act as if the safc isn't there?

oh and here is the howto on hooking it up and tuning steps
But get it to a dyno its the only way

http://www.avenger.kicks-ass.net/safc.htm

yeh I should get it to a dyno but I"ll wait for the turbo to be installed first.

But I tried the datalogger thing from that link and it worx!! I got the car to idle at 0% trim and it cycles to stoich now, it makes sense that I had to lean it to like -30% because the injectors are bigger. So far I've got the idle down now I have to start adjusting the other ranges. woohoo let you know how it turns out.

hey man, 1st off the way i tune it is, when you're going to set the lo setting, i hope you resetted your ECU. by resetting it will make your ECU adjust for itself till it warms up all the way. keep the 1k set at 0. till your hear the engine sound kinda normal. your enigine is gonna sound weird at 1st and shake a lot, and puff black smoke, don't worry that's normal. then once it's there adjust it leaner till idle sounds smooth. when i had 36 lbs injectors, i had it set to -30% so you can get an idea. and that's with a FMU 6:1. then i have my rev settings 1k,2k,3k,3.5k,4k,5k,6k,7k. so when you adjust 2k, it should be about 3+ higher from 1k, and 3k do the same maybe +4 from 2k. it should go like an upside down ladder going up. do small adjustments till it sounds right. but the one you should really be concerned with is hi-setting cause that's when you hit WOT. since you have T3/t4 like i have. boost starts at 3k rpm according to when i dynoed. so when you tune your hi-setting you should start there. when i was 36lbs, i was at -4%, and i worked my way down to 7k and ended at -25% and i had .97v on my O2. when i dynoed, it was well tuned.i don't know about your 30lbs, but i'm pretty sure your settings should be set a little richer than mine. remember this is just an idea. and as for your 6in/6out, it should be 7in/7out. my pressure is set, 30lo/80hi. try it like that see how it works for you. i hope this helps.

woohoo well I'm starting to get the hang of this magical box. my fuel settings are hella whack though but they seem to work. Some flat spots from sudden transitions from rich to lean though. Still work in progress but here's what I did.

*reset ecu
*then leaned out lo 1k throttle till the fuel trim was near zero
*then tuned it in neutral with the datalogger to get perfect trim
*then I road tested it and tune by af ratio gauge
* (big difference because of load!) TOO LEAN from 2k-3k-3900, but at 4k thing goes MEGA rich I don't know why but my FMU is hooked up but no boost but maybe the fmu is to blame for this.
*after hecka road testing and hecka lean mixture from 2k to 3k I richened that the lo settings to about +30% it begins to run at around .92V while in 3rd and like .85-.87 in 4th
*Then I lean the 4k+ settings like to -20 and it started driving a lot more smoothly and man did it have power at that 4k+
*So I set the hi 4k+ setting to about that and man talk about power thing takes off like its got vtec or something.
*but because of the lean spot between 2k-3k I have to richen that up even at WOT it makes it lean.
*so now there are flat transition spots from 1k to 2k-3k because its *leaned for a good idle but like you really drive at 1k in a high gear and another spot from 3k-4k
*so I set the NE points from 3k-3.5k then just 4k in stead of 4.5 to get a smoother transition

Woohoo and there it is, pretty good tuning runs pretty good drivability now ^_^.

I could see how a dyno would be very helpful because you can do that neutral gear tuning in gear under load without having to watch the road and stuff. but I'll save that for when I reinstall the turbo. haha if the smog station would just rent me their dyno, dyno's aren't hard to find anymore in california :P I bet you could use the datalogger all the time and more efficiently on the dyno too.

I think I'll record these setting for now and then maybe take the disc out of the fmu, hopefully this'll kill this richness at 4k+ and I can tune a nice smooth NA curve for now. But the tuning I just did should work for when I install the turbo with a little tweaking. boy do I need to get a SFMU. man used up half a tank of gas to get this far and I must've driven hecka laps around the neighborhood :P

whats this I hear about timing advance though? Do I have to worry about that in an NA car? I should probably log a WOT run to check it out. whew this post is winding up turning into my tuning notez O_o Also what's the difference between in6/out6 and in7/out7? The guide on 2gnt said use in6/out6 but maybe in7/out7. What do the majority of you 95 guys keep it at?

anyway here's what I got kinda wierd huh? O_o

Revised Freeway Run LO throttle
1k= -28
2k= +22
3k= +31
3.5k= +30
4k= -11
5k= -11
6k= -11
7k= -10

HI throttle
1k= 0
2k= +27
3k= +29
3.5k= +30
4k= -34
5k= -35
6k= -35
7k= -35

oh yeah no more check engine light for being too rich also! I still get a code for fuel metering or something but it doesn't trip the light so its all good.