I already have eliminated the tube and I've had CEL 32 for over a year. I'm having a vacuum problem and I want to cut the solenoid "out of the loop". I don't need anymore probs, so I figured I'd check here first. I can't see the harm, but my day has not been a good one so if somebody that has no vacuum lines hooked up to their EGR sol., let me know.

no lines here, but the solenoid is still electrically hooked up

Thanks. I'm hoping my problem is in there somewhere, but I'm not getting my hopes up. I'm missing 10in/hg of vacuum at idle and the car runs fine. I had noticed it first when my BOV started to flutter. How is this happening?

Also, do you have the EGR itself (vacuum ports) capped off?

Just keep the solenoid hooked up electrically. There is no reason to keep vacuum lines run to it. There is also no reason to put vacuum caps over the solenoid ports once the vacuum lines are removed. The ECU looks for the proper resistance in the EGR circuit (whether the EGR solenoid is connected electrically). The ECU can also perform a self test to determine if the EGR system is actually functioning properly (you automatically fail this if you have the EGR system removed or disabled). I just keep my solenoid hooked up to prevent the first code and clear the second code whenever it shows up (twice a year).

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Thanks. I was actually refering to the EGR it's self. I figured it didn't make any difference one way or another just b/c the fact that I had cut the flanges off the tube, welded them shut and put them back on w/o a tube. I went and got a real vacuum gauge an still having problems. On the vac gauge @ idle I get 15in/hg. I disconnect the gauge and hook up my boost gauge and get 11in/hg. The idles fine and has no smoke. I also hear no audible internal noises either. I'm gonna throw a comp tester later today after classes.

Well, the EGR opening gives alot of air, if you blocked off the egr, then that source of air is gone. My car idled at 4000 rpm when i didn't block off the egr opening properly.

Are you trying to fix the vacuum idle so you stop getting the cel for it?

I would think you'd have to modify/create an opening for the manifold to get more air while the throttle plate is closed. With the EGR blocked off, the only place that air is coming in is that little opening on the TB that bypasses the throttle plate.

I don't care about the CEL. My BOV started to flutter on my home last week. After hearing it, I looked down and noticed that I was only getting 10in/hg at idle. I've completely cut the EGR out of the system and have redone my vacuum lines from my boost gauge, FMU, and intake. The car seemingly runs fine. BTW low vac indicates internal problems sometimes. I have no smoke or noises. I'm gonna check it out today w/ a comp tester.

Good news is that I have 180+/- 5psi in all cylinders. Bad news is that I still have a vacuum problem AND I broke a plug wire! What can I check for to get this cleared up?