Ok, I am helping a friend install the AFX UDP on his 95 ESi (along with the rest of the timing belt stuff). And we are having a problem getting the stock crank pulley off. When we try to get the pulley retaining bolt off, (the bolt in the middle of the pulley that attaches it to the crank), it turns the entire crank assembly rather than loosening. I'm sure those of you who installed the pulley or done your own timing belt understand what I am talking about.

Basically, we don't have a good way of bracing the pulley so it doesn't turn with the crank. Any suggestions? help?

Thanks a lot..

-Jeff
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T'd and HRC'd

http://gs.dsmpower.com

You could try something like this.





http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
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5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
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Empty Catalytic Convertor
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Audio:
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Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
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3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

LOL, u broke out the homemade tool.



hit me up on aim, vegasdsmr thats da new SN
Sean G
vegaspimpin 99 gs ounce edition (wish it was a Q P)
http://seangordon1.tripod.com

short ram intake w/custom dual ram air
2.5 catback w/5zigen muff and cherry bomb resonator
front upper and rear upper strut bar
NGK BKR5E-11
8.5 mm magnecores
hurricane gs shiftermod
symborski shifter kit

AFX UDP (sittin in my garage)

That's Corbin's tool for holding the cam gear in place. Should work with the pulley too.



http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Here’s the 10 step skinny:
1. Raise and block car, take off passenger wheel, unbolt plastic cover that you look at with wheel off. BAM, there’s the stock pulley!

2. Loosen alternator, AC compressor(if you have it), and PS pump. Take off belts.

3. Jack engine up under oil pan, just slight pressure at this point. make sure you put a piece of wood on the jack when jacking on the engine. If you jack directly on the oil pan it can bend up. Put the wood so it lifts on the edges of the oil pan.

4. Apply more or less pressure to take off tension on motor mount, remove mount on pulley side only.

5. Lower motor about 1-2in. (enough that the top of stock pulley will clear frame, you'll see what i mean)

6. Remove stock pulley bolt,(at this point go buy same thread bolt but 1-2in. longer and 5 or so thick washers that fit bolt, washers to be used later) screw 1in. of longer bolt into crank.

7. RENT A SMALL 4 TON GEAR PULLER from local auto store. This will need to be a 3 arm puller to fit on the INSIDE of the stock pulley. Now, pull off pulley.

***At this point if you don't know how to use a puller or can't figure it out, PAY someone to do this Mod for you!!!!***

8. Put on new AFX pulley and thread longer bolt with washers between head of bolt and pulley.

9. Use ratchet socket and bolt to "pull" new pulley on. You will need to wedge a screwdriver or similar tool between the pulley and motor to keep from turning the crank. Remove or add washers as needed to "pull" pulley on tighter. At some point you can put stock bolt back in to finish "pulling" on the rest of the way.

10. Add new belts, (the one that came with your pulley will most likely be for cars with AC. If you don't have AC you will need to get another belt. These numbers should be somewhat the same between different makers. 380K5/5050380DR)
tighten all acc. MAKE SURE BELTS ARE HELLA TIGHT or SSQQQUUUEEEELLLLL!!!!!!! put everything else back on and KAKOW, new pulley!!!

No matter how you do it, there will be some hassle. The old pulley is a tight bitch! You will need the puller!!!! You can try oven heating the new pulley to slide it on, but that method has mixed reviews and sometimes it works and sometimes it don’t. Plus you gota have good mittens to handle the heat! The way above will take about 3 hours from start to finish if you have all the right tools and are somewhat mechanicy inclined.


http://my97rs.homestead.com/mywebpage.html

I refuse to tip-toe through life gently, only to arrive at death safely!

97 RS
Custom CAI
AF/X UDP
Bored TB-55mm
GS-T exhaust
"Super Good" plug wires
Front & Rear upper strut bars
Rear lower Stablizer bar
Front RRE lower Tie bar
Eibach Sportline Springs
Tokico shocks
Powerslot Rotors
S/S braided brake lines
Axxis Metal master pads
17" Focal Type 161's w/ Z-rated rubber
Stock shifter shortened 1.25in
Energy Suspension Shifter bushings
Custom shift plate(no more shift boot)
Indiglos
Grillcraft 3-pc. grill
V-Tech Taillight covers
Coming soon: AFC, EGT, A/F meter install, Pacesetter ceramic coated headers, 2.5" full exhaust pipeing

Thanks for the instructions, but the problem is that we can't get that retainer bolt off the stock crank pulley in the first place. Every time we try to unscrew it, it just turns the entire crankshaft. This is what we are trying to figure out.

-Jeff
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T'd and HRC'd

http://gs.dsmpower.com

...and on top of that, we tried putting it in gear and standing on the brake pedal. As I was turning the pulley with the bolt it would try to unwind itself as if we were twisting the harmonic balancer, then eventually I was turning the pulley round and round, but the axles weren't turning. There was this metal on rubber sound and feeling to it.

Is it supposed to do this? There isn't any way for me to mess up the timing by doing this, is there?

-George

I haven't done the pulley yet but is it a reverse thread? If you make something to hold the pulley in place like the long pipe with bolts it should come out.




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

LAST EDITED ON 03-Nov-01 AT 02:38 PM (PST)

Try putting it in 5th gear and have someone hold the brakes.
5th because it's taller and almost impossible to turn the engine.
Man, I have no clue what going on with yours George, it should have been semi easy.

Michelle

We will NOT forget!
September 11, 2001


96 Eclipse Base Model
Best 14.6@93 w/60 shot
95 Talon Tsi AWD A/T

Use a screw driver.

Wedge a screwdriver betwen the pulley and the block to hold the pulley from moving when you crank on the bolt. But don't do this in reverse for install you will bend the aluminumn. I threaded two small boilts into the removal holes and then wedged a screw driver against the frame to hold the pulley still for install.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

man, i was just at the shop, and we broke the gear puller tryin to get mine off. well we put all the stock shit back into place, and were gunna try a stronger puller on monday. i was laughin at him cuz i told the mechanic that he would need a stronger puller, and the shit broke in half (on one of the arms of the puller)

anyways, we were usin a 2 foot long screwdriver/wedge type thing to brace the pulley in place while turnin that bolt in the middle.

that old pulley is on there like stink on shit




hit me up on aim, vegasdsmr thats da new SN
Sean G
vegaspimpin 99 gs ounce edition (wish it was a Q P)
http://seangordon1.tripod.com

short ram intake w/custom dual ram air
2.5 catback w/5zigen muff and cherry bomb resonator
front upper and rear upper strut bar
NGK BKR5E-11
8.5 mm magnecores
hurricane gs shiftermod
symborski shifter kit

AFX UDP (sittin in my garage)

Well I got it. I did try the screw driver thing, but couldn't find any place to wedge it where it wouldn't just get pushed towards the front of the car (and there aren't any removal holes it's all solid with three spokes). I ended up using a plastic coated steel cable wrapped around the suspension. I've taken pictures and will put it up on vfaq, because the instructions there aren't right. For instance there is no way to use a special tool to hold the cam sprockets. I'm going to put the belt back on and use tie wraps to hold them while I try unbolting the cams. Hopefully that will work.

I used a craftsman 4 1/2 ton 2/3 arm puller, and it worked great. I did have to use a 2 foot breaker bar on the puller. Now comes the fun part.

Thanks for all the help!!!

-George

p.s. Some of you may remember me from a couple of years ago. (George L) I have been quiet lately, plus been playing with my new 95 gsx. The amount of helpfull people here has seemed to increase!

A torch comes in very handy here heating up the old pulley will help get it off,,,,