Anyone have a list or a milage guide to servicing various parts of the engine (coolant, clutch fluid, a/c, brake fluid, oil of course is every 3k.


97 RS lurking in Hayward CA (Bay Area 2GNT)


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If you still have your owners manual, there is a maintenance schedule with it.

_____________________________________________
-Dino Yancey
Hello me, it's Me Again!


For Mitsubishi Technical Manuals, INCLUDING the 97-99 electrical and service manuals, click HERE:
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I don't have an owners manuel


97 RS lurking in Hayward CA (Bay Area 2GNT)


email: sir_fusi0n@hotmail.com
www.cyn0sure.homestead.com
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Then what specifically are you wanting to know the service interval for? I may know it off the top of my head. (like airbags are every 10 years and stuff)
_____________________________________________
-Dino Yancey
Hello me, it's Me Again!


For Mitsubishi Technical Manuals, INCLUDING the 97-99 electrical and service manuals, click HERE:
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/
No MP3 for YOU!

LAST EDITED ON 02-Nov-01 AT 07:54 AM (PST)

Okay Abe- off the top of my head

oil every 3000 miles

Change your spark plugs, PVC valve and clean your K&N every 6000 miles or sooner. (The "service stations" change your sparks at 15000 mile intervals and then charge you close to 80 bucks for turning a couple of screws)

Fluid drains/flushes every 30000 miles (clutch, tranny, coolant, brake fluid) , change fuel filter, clean fuel injectors

check CV boots and brake pads every now and then.

anybody want to add to the list?

Thanks for the info guys, gotta keep the ride in tip top shape. Hey Danny I just finished installing the side skirts, but I installed them myself cause they just looked too easy too install and I was trying to avoid giving 100+ bucks for a shop to do it and of course cause I'm a cheap SOB hehe.


97 RS lurking in Hayward CA (Bay Area 2GNT)


email: sir_fusi0n@hotmail.com
www.cyn0sure.homestead.com
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Oil, every 3K miles under hard use if you are using regular oil. If you're just coasting on the highway you can get away with changing oil at greater intervals. If it's city driving or you are racing that's a different story, but highway miles are easier on the engine. I know most people say "better safe than sorry" but the service interval listed in some new BMWs or Mercedes manuals' is to change oil every 15,000 miles, so it's OK.

Also, my dad's old car (olds 88, still in the family, my brother uses it) has nothing but highway miles on it (130K+) and the oil on that thing was changed every 10K miles. The engine runs perfectly, no issues at all, you'd think it was new.

Synthetic oil can go longer without being changed.

I let my car go to about 4.5K miles just recently, but I was using synthetic which also lasts longer. (and alot of those miles were highway cruising to and from the shootout)

Coolant, every 3 years, every 1 or 2 years if the car sits around alot (like mine in the winter) make sure you use a corrosion inhibitor, it really helps.

PCV valve, no idea, those have to be changed? really? :)

Plugs, if you're using cheapo champions every 10K (SERIOUSLY, the stock ones were well worn after 10K in my car). NGK coppers should be 15-20K miles, platnium (of any kind) 30K miles, even though they might be fine at 30K, change out the platnium plugs after 30K, don't buy into the GM "100K mile tune up interval" crap. If you leave platnium plugs in the car for that long, they will "become one" with the cylinder head! So, change those at 30K to prevent this.

Tranny fluid, for an auto every 30K, for a manual, trust me every 60K should be fine and remember to use the right fluid! I changed my manual tranny fluid at 30K and I couldn't tell the difference between the old and new fluid, I shouldn't have bothered (but I wouldn't have found out my drain plug was loose!) They might not even to tell you to change the manual tranny fluid in the factory service manual.

Brake fluid/clutch cylinder fluid, every 60K should be fine (that stuff doesn't really go bad unless you have a leak in the system and moisture gets at it). Probably 30K for brake fluid if you use DOT4 instead of DOT3 (DOT4 resists heat better but is less resistant to moisture)

Brake lines/CV boots, check when you check brakes, replace as needed.

"Keep on charging the enemy, so long as there is life."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.589 @ 88.22 MPH
2001 DSM Shootout Winner - NT Class

Modifications: GS-T muffler, Iceman cold air intake, AFX underdrive pulley, Brospeed header, Apexi Super AFC, Extrude Honed intake manifold, KYB AGX shocks, Powerslot front rotors, Porterfield R4S front brake pads, and occationally Mazda RX-7 rims with 225/50VR16 Michelin Pilot SX-GT tires

not bad, Abe-

how did the install go? drill lots o' holes? is your car looking clean as hell now? :D

Thanks VX100 for the info.

Yo Danny, the install took about 2 hours to do and I drilled a lot of holes and I cracked 1 grommet but I found something else to replace it. As for the looks, the car looks a lot better and lower.


97 RS lurking in Hayward CA (Bay Area 2GNT)


email: sir_fusi0n@hotmail.com
www.cyn0sure.homestead.com
join #2GNT on Dalnet IRC