Ok, im getting ready to build my engine for turbo, would it be easier to buy seperate 420a engine on the side and build it or just build the one in my car.... questions about the block... when i rebuild it do i just get high performance pistons/rods, and should i resleeve it? Do i need to do any work to my head or can i just leave it stock? Need a lot of questions answered but i want to be able to run street 7psi and when i race 18-20. Would my block be strong enough for that or no? thinking JE pistons - rngs / Eagle Rods. And would it be a good idea to bore out the block to .4 or .6 over? or .2? not sure looking for some feedback get back to me. If you have info on disc or comp you can sent to Phat95EclipseRS@aol.com

First off your block is iron so it doesnt need sleeved:-) second you dont want to go with high compression pistons because your forcing more air in with the turbo. Three as long as you can find a good 420a for a good price you could build that and still drive the car. As for engine parts as long as it can take the abuse of boost then use them. People can argue all day about who makes the best pistons or rods but as long as they are quality parts you should have nothing to worry about. Good luck:thumbsup

Ok, so i shouldn't bore my block out... but get stronger pistons / rods correct?

No you can go with bigger pistons. What I meant was that your block is cast iron and doesnt have sleeves to bore. The cylinder bore is cast into the block.

An aluminum block has sleeves. The aluminum is to soft to take the abuse of piston rings and combustion so on say a honda motor they have Iron sleeves pressed into the block.

If you still don't get my drift I'm a crappy teacher with adhd so leave me alone!jk man if you need more help just let me know:thumbsup

ahh icic i get it now... thanks... i should be able to pick up a rs/gs block for cheap so ima do that and build it til i get the rest of money for turbo.

Hey man,

first thing if your gonna rebuild i have full rebuild kits forsale,

second if your going turbo i recomend ceramic and moly coatings, if u do not understand what these coatings do them hit me up and ill give u info..

remember any bottom end can break so if the car is not tuned a forged bottom end can blow up too..

bore your block minimum .020 over if its at std bore that way u get a fresh start...

its a good idea to deck the block if its needed..


head work would be valve job new valve seals for about 300$ a head mill should be about 40$ to make sure the head is flat...

if your guides are shot another 100$ or so

might as well grab a water pump while u got it apart and replace the timing belt tensioner and idler pulley if u havent within 20k miles

thats about all i can think of at this point to steer u in the right direction...

Bill

hey, man where can i contact you at? and get the info on all that stuff? hit me up at Phat95EclipseRS@aol.com

thanks for the help

This is off the subject, but I was wondering why gottude isn't a sponsor for 2gnt...? If you are a vendor here, aren't you supposed to pay to advertise?

matt im sorting out the website before i drive a million people to the site that dont work that is the only thing keeping me from it...

Bill

That shouldnt keep you from donating though right? :thumbsup

all in good time my friend...

Bill

Well the way I, and quite a few others see it, you've been advertising for free for quite some time now. Without 2gnt, you don't have a business. The fact that you don't financially support the community that you are taking advantage of is quite rude in my opinion. I think your rent is past due my friend.