I have a 1995 eclipse rs automatic with a blown engine. I want to get the FTY Domestic Killer Stroker engine. I was wondering what kind of performance I will be getting and what 1/4 mile time to expect with these mods.
Final Drive Mod
Shift Kit
TQ Conv. Lockup Kill Switch
Tranny Cooler
Cold Air Intake
Crank Scraper - Should I leave this on?
UnderDrive Pully
Alternator Overdrive Pully
OBX 4-1 Header
Custom Dual Exhaust - 2.25 inch mandrel bend
Solid Motor Mounts - Should I keep these?

Also should I rebuild the head?

do it, high comp and cams will cook like a mofo...

Im pretty sure but not postive that engine comes with a lower compression... If so its probably about a 8.8:1-- I would expect to see low 16's with AT.... Not much better. Why do you have an underdrive pully and then an alternator over drive pully.... Wont these pretty much cancel each other out.

You can get any comp u want.

The alternator overdrive pully gives me more voltage for the battery. The underdrive just took away too much for me to have a system in my car but it still underdrives the powersteering and a/c. So it doesn't cancell all the power out. Also, is there any way I can get the FTY stroker motor to make my A/T go into the 15s? Better boltons or what?

Ok... well any compressiong you want. Get 10.5 and build your head. You should be deap into the 15s high 14s possible. Theres no way of really telling. Driving skills play a part.

Are you sure that compression would be good with the 2.2 stroker? Will the stock head do well with the 2.2 or should I prep it too? I don't want too high comp, because I still want to run on cheap 87 octane. I'm pretty sure now I'm just gonna get the domestic killer 2.2 and put on new PT rockers and lifters in the head, maybe new valve seals depending if the valves leak. I'm hoping this with my boltons will get me atleast a 15.7 in the quarter with my automatic.

87 -- OH MY GOD... All I can say is forget about peroformance, try bodykits.

Well, all I can choose from is 87, 89, or 93. And gas is very expensive. But will I have to run higher octane on a 2.2 stroker? Also will I hit a 15.7 with the 2.2 and my boltons or what?

Also with my mods what will a regular FTY rice killer 2.0 get me in the 1/4 mile? Also, this is the company that gets their engines from VT, right?

Anyone?

Depending on how heavy the car is and how good you drive will be the desiding on how fast it goes. With out have an Idea of how much h.p. your going to have its really hard to say.

If you want to go fast that 87 octain has got to go. You must run higher compression if not going forced induction. Most of all the power made comes from the Head if you run stock cams, with no porting and polishing off the head and no valve job that strocker will fall flat on its face. If you really want to go fast and not break any thing you have to do every thing or nothing at all.

I would call Koffel's place and see how much a stage 2 port job would go for.Good luck man:thumbsup

not to really throw your idea out of the window, but if you are serious about getting lower times.. There is not one single upgrade (outside of turbo) that will net you lower times than swapping ur A/T for a M/T. there is about a second off your quater right there. the auto tranny just kills the power to the wheels.


VW= The joy of driving
DSM= The frustration of fixing

and just to get to your question, i have done alot of reading on the 2.2 fty block, they offer a 10.1:1 compression which with a few upgrades in the head and ignition system could net you substantial gains. not to sure on all the headwork to be done if any... (help me out guys) but it surely helps. P&P intake manifold and larger TB, with a nice exhaust manifold and cat back. you will see some really nice numbers come out of your car a/t or m/t. best guys to ask are these all motor guru's that i respect with all my car being!


VW= The joy of driving
DSM= The frustration of fixing

If I were in your shoes, I would do one of 2 things:

1. If you are serious about not wanting to use 93 octane gas, then go with the stroker and put 9.6:1 (or close) pistons in. If you can afford it, add some cams. If you want a decent idle, go with crane #12 cams. If you are willing to sacrifice smooth idle for power, go with crane #16 cams.

2. If you decide that making your car significantly faster makes the extra gas money worth it, then go with the stroker with 10.5:1 pistons. Add to that the same cams that I mentioned above, and you will have a very fun car to drive. If you want to go all out, then start porting and polishing the head and intake manifold, but I would put the cams in first honestly. If you look at the head packages that FTY has to offer as well here: http://www.fasterthanyou.com/4g63_heads.cfm , it is worth noting that both packages come with any crane cams you want (not just turbo cams). The FTY 10.5:1 domestickiller block with the domestickiller head will kick some serious ass for an NA motor.