does anyone know any good or bad cons about these engines? im looking @ the domestickiller 420a 2.2 shortblock and head and throwing on a hrc stage 2 turbo. or ill go with the ricekiller 420a 2.0 block and head with the hrc. jus depends on how much money i have waiting for me, leaning towards the 2.2 tho. i just read that they arent new engines, but you send yours in. now what i read looks like they rebuild everything, so me having a blown rod shouldnt be an inconvience right? any comments or question are welcomed yo, and other ideas of ways i should handle my fugged engine are too! :7

ive read tons and tons of posts and nothing but good comments from VT. best i can say is u get the best of the best. im actually buying a block from them and are totally sold on the quality of their stuff, just check it out yourself.... vt engines makes the fasterthanyou stuff, fyi.

just my 2 cents

96 talon esi-t



Uberingram> quit it turbo8u, you're turning me on
^^^^ this guy is for real

i second that.... i've heard nothing but good things about fty and vt
im going thru them when i do my 2.4 setup }(
however lets not forget about bill or howell as well
they are all good people but bill's website never works for me so i dunno what he does :wary

>does anyone know any good or bad cons about these engines?

As you have probably already read, VT Competition Engine Development in Lansing, MI produces all of our engines. Their website is www.vtengines.com if you haven't already checked them out. They are a top notch engine development shop with the latest and greatest in machining equipment (see http://www.vtengines.com/about1.htm for pictures) and race engine building experience.

im
>looking @ the domestickiller 420a 2.2 shortblock and head and
>throwing on a hrc stage 2 turbo. or ill go with the ricekiller
>420a 2.0 block and head with the hrc. jus depends on how much
>money i have waiting for me, leaning towards the 2.2 tho. i
>just read that they arent new engines, but you send yours in.

I believe we have a core or 2 at the shop at the moment, so if you wanted us to build it and ship it to you without having to send us your core, we can do that. If you go that route, there will be a refundable core charge though (see the FTY website). If you send us your core block and head, there will be no core charge.

>now what i read looks like they rebuild everything, so me
>having a blown rod shouldnt be an inconvience right? any
>comments or question are welcomed yo, and other ideas of ways
>i should handle my fugged engine are too! :7

Did you spin a bearing, or bend/throw the rod? We do rebuild everything. We are not by any means limited to the parts that you see on FTY's website as well. If you specifically want certain parts, or want coatings added, or absolutely anything you can think of, we can most likely get it done. Just call FTY or VT if you have any questions.

I'll definitely be looking at the FTY 2.2 or 2.4 buildup in the near future. I don't want to have to send in my block though, and I want straight bulletproof quality and pump out insane amounts of boost, is this something that can be done, and if maybe I could get a price worked out so I can look at what I'll be spending.

It sounds to me like you would want CP pistons and Pauter Rods. The crank would fail before either of those 2 components would. If you want a bulletproof crank as well, we can get custom forged cranks too (cranks can get very pricy though). If you know exactly what components you are looking for, give FTY or VT a call for pricing.

I'm looking to run 24-25psi somewhere around there, do you think I would need the bulletproof crank?

>I'm looking to run 24-25psi somewhere around there, do you
>think I would need the bulletproof crank?


note, don't flame me for this, 24-25psi is what my GOAL is what I'm eventually looking to run in the end, it is simply a goal, I'm not stupid enough to think I can slap on a turbo kit rebuild and run 20 somethin pounds of boost. I'm just trying to figure out what FTY can do for me to help me achieve this goal. I realize I will probably never reach this goal, but I would like to try and get as close as possible. Yes I am aware of all the OTHER things needed aside from rebuild to run that much boost and put down that much power so no need for flames here kids.

For 24-25 psi, you will not need a forged crank. You don't really even need Pauter rods. Eagle rods will take that much power without a problem. Once you start getting near the 500 whp mark, I would look at some beefier rods, but up to that point, the Eagles should be fine.

VT is in Lansing?! No shit.. My dad lives between Lansing and St. Johns and that's were I do all my wrenching. Do I have to surrender my engine or can you bulid mine. Just something about me wanting to keep my orginal block...guess I'm just wierd like that. Buliding my block is something I deffinately want to do in the future...but it looks like I might have a new builder}(

>VT is in Lansing?! No shit.. My dad lives between Lansing
>and St. Johns and that's were I do all my wrenching. Do I
>have to surrender my engine or can you bulid mine. Just
>something about me wanting to keep my orginal block...guess
>I'm just wierd like that. Buliding my block is something I
>deffinately want to do in the future...but it looks like I
>might have a new builder}(

Yeah Kent, they are in Lansing :) They are about an hour so so from us..pretty sweet..I'll be going over there to dyno in a few months hopefully. Bunch of great guys, and Scott, of FTY is a great guy to know/do business with..You will have to check out their place sometime, its just sweet..

Nothing but good things.

I've never bought from them but I would definately

I have a spare block that might be going to them in a few months :P

reaching 24-25psi of boost is not that big a deal mang just need a big enough turbo... u gotta tune it well of course..


as for the crank failing at that kind of boost *HIGHLY UNLIKELY* ive never seen a crank ina 420a break yet..

Bill

most definately, vt is a great shop. i recieved my block a few weeks ago, and its pristene. they even painted it for me hehe.

their shop is super clean, and state of the art. like so clean you could drop your mcdonalds on the floor, accidentally kick it, then pick it up and eat it.

and matt, when you head to lansing let me know! i wouldnt mind meeting up. and when are we going to get together to put together ^^ said block? hehe.

about the FTY/VT engines..... it says $1645 ($400 core charge). What exactly does this mean? Do I have to pay $400 more ($2045), or is the 400 already included in the $1645?



14.7 @ 93mph / 7psi 185hp/180tq

I'm pretty sure it's included. You get the core back when you return the old stuff to the shop.

Some places work differently though

If you send in your block for them to work on, there is no core charge. The core charge is refundable and is not included in the price of the engine, so if you buy the ricekiller for $1645, and you do not supply a core, the cost will be $2045. Once you receive the engine, you would just send us back your core block with the crank (both in good shape) and you will get your $400 back. The only reason that the core charge is so high is because we have been having a hard time getting and keeping cores. If we have a large core charge, then people have more of an incentive to send us the core back so we dont have to keep searching for cores all of the time. Once we get a few more cores in stock, the core charge will drop.

By the way, there is NO core charge for the 2.4. It is included in the cost of the engine, so the listed price is for the parts and the block. If you have a core 420a block and crank, or head laying around, we are looking for them at the moment and will buy them from you if you are looking to sell. Just contact FTY or VT about it.

since were talking about vt do they weld journals on the 420a cranks?
do the motors they supply ever use welded journal cranks?

matt got anything for me on this?
if u prefer u could pm me the msg

Bill

>since were talking about vt do they weld journals on the 420a
>cranks?

Nope. It's the same price for us to get a remanufactured crank that hasn't been welded, and that's ready to be balanced rather than using an existing crank and having it welded.

>do the motors they supply ever use welded journal cranks?

Nope.

Do yours?

We won't sell a motor with a welded crank. If it is out of spec, then we find another crank. I just don't trust a welded journal on a motor that I would sell to anybody. I am glad to hear that you don't either.
-=B-=

good to hear u guys dont do it either...

Bill

post stealers!

but thanks matt, everything you wrote answered all my questions really... fty will be receiving a call from me shortly :thumbsup :7