ok so I call a buncha shops today and ask em how much it'd cost to replace valve stem seals and a lot of them told me that it probably wasn't the seals that its the valve guides that need replacing. Could valve guides cause me to burn oil?

Maybe, but most likely, it's the stem seals. The valve would have to be pretty sloppy inside of the guide to wear on a stem seal like that, but it is possible. I have 16 brand new valve guides laying around though if you want to pick some up for a more reasonable price. Regardless of whether or not you replace the guides, you will still need to change out the stem seals though.

yea, you can get 16 stem seals for 30-31 bucks from bob kise...

if your taking apart the head, might as well replace the seals anyway.

With as much tension as is on the valves stem seal for the guides to be leaking the seals would prbably have to be shot anyway. But i highly doubt the guides are bad, replace the seals, ,unfortunately not the easiest of jobs.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Smooth idle? We don't need no stinking smooth idle.

Mods List:
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I do have a THEORY on how to do this without taking the head off....

I was discussing this one with a few of you at the shootout (can't remember who). You may have to relieve the tension on the timing belt (not sure about that). You would need to unbolt the cam caps and move the cams over enough so that you could access the journals. Then you need to fabricate a special tool :). If you know what the end of a valve spring compressor looks like, then you know what you need on the end of the tool... It basically looks like a socket that is cut in 1/2 only at the top so there is a ring at the base and an access port in the upper half. That will need to be welded onto the end of a metal rod to look like |---. Next, you will need to weld on a 2nd bar perpendicular to and underneath the first bar at the exact distance so that when the 2nd bar is secured in the cam journals, the socket type piece is centered on the valve retainer. Next, you will need to cut off the 1st bar right after where the 2nd bar was welded to it and re attach it at an angle so you can compress the valve spring without hitting the edge of the head. Once the tool is finished, you should be able to tighten bar 2 in the cam journal and compress the valves by lifting up on the bar. Does anyone else think this would be feasable for our head?

Why can't you use a valve spring compressor like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2427318417&category=35625

Also, if you remove the springs while the head is on then you have to make sure that the valves don't fall into the cylinder. You have to pump the cyl with an air compressor, or feed rope through the spark plug hole, or whatever trick you want to use so the valves don't fall in.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.901 @ 88.34mph
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I've seen a standard valve spring compressor used with a deep well socket, like a 13/16" with a hole cut in the side. That welded at the right spot to a bar bent at the right angle could work, as long as you have the right mechanism to rotate and make sure it secure in many places you don't want to strip out the cam cap theads with too much force.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Smooth idle? We don't need no stinking smooth idle.

Mods List:
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whoa now that I look at it that tool on ebay might do the job. if you could get that claw to grab the stem seal that hold the springs it could work.

But I think I've come to a decision, I think I'm gonna pull the head (booo I just put a new headgasket in there too) and get a valve job done. They'll install the seals as part of the valve job and I'll make sure my head is in good condition. No more of this half assed stuff.

Who was selling valve guides here?

if your replacing the guides u probably should do a valve job while your at it..


becareful doing it with the head attached...

Bill