I've got the FSM pages showing the special tool, but the one I rented from AutoZone is A) too short and B) wrong thread pitch.

My specialty tool rental place doesn't have it and my only other option at this point may be to ask to borrow it from Satan (Yeah, right.) :rolleyes or load the whole engine into a truck and drive it out to the gates of hell (ie; Satan's shop) in a hurry to get it done and PAY for it.

If I can find the M12-1.75*150mm bolt at a fastener supplier, can I use the harmonic balancer installer with it?
The one I rented from AutoZone has the long bolt that goes through a threaded sleave into a special tip which threads into the crank. Then you tighten down this giant nut onto a thrust bearing that's up against the sprocket.
If I get the big bolt, I'm thinking I can use the threaded sleeve and not need the special tips which have the wrong thread and just hold the crank steady by holding the end of the bolt. This way I can still use the kit's nut and thrust washer.

Please tell me this is an easy thing and I can just use the BFH or something like that and that I'm wrong in thinking that would put it on crooked, resulting in many a shredded t-belt. </crosses fingers>

I need to get this car running by tomorrow night. This is the only hang up I have. If we had the right tool, we would be less than 2 hours work from hoisting the whole powertrain into position.

Thank you all so much for all your continued support! :thumbsup

Now... help! :o

Get a bolt that is 1-2 inches longer than the crank bolt. Then use a BIG ASS sockett that fits inside the rim of the timing gear. Then just tighten the bolt to pull the gear on the crank. You may want to heat the gear before hand. Think about it this way, it's a smaller crank pulley, it comes off and goes on in the same manner as the crank pulley.

Piece of pipe, two-by-four, and a hammer. Done.

Okay. So I get a bolt that is closer to +1" or closer to +2" longer than crank bolt? We don't have a torch, could the heating be done in the oven? 500* for 15 minutes?

What are the odds I fuck this up if I go your route DarkOne?

I have a service guy at the local DaimlerChrysler shop looking for the tool to see if they can do it...

Thanks guys! :thumbsup

(and yes, I'm checking this thread about every 5 minutes...) :P

I've never heard of it not working. You're more likely to damage it by stripping out a bolt doing it the other way that you are hurting anything by putting a piece of pipe on it, covering that end with a 2x4, and wailing on it with a hammer until its all the way on.

THANK YOU! Unless Satan calls me up and says: we'll let you borrow the tool since we never use it, I think we will try the pipe-hammer-2x4-done. method.

I think I will bake the sprocket for a bit just in case.

Again - thanks! :thumbsup

Yes the baking is fine which ever way you do it. just be careful with the pipe not to chip the gear in any way, esp. if it's hot.

Dino's right. Use the pipe (or 30mm deep socket...hehhe) and a hammer.

But don't forget the CS key.

If you are using a hammer, be very gentle on the crank. My only worry is damgaging the thrust bearing in the motor if you pound on it too hard. I got a longer bolt, than a big socket, i believe it was a deep well 1.25" socket, and then drove it on as far as i could like that, using an impact wrench set to low torque. Then to finish it off, i just used the crank pulley to push the gear on the rest of the way. If you do it this way, the gear will rest right where it needs to be. It will be about .020-.030 gap from the gear edge to the block when its on fully.

I would stay away from the BFM method (Big Fucking Hammer).

Get the longer bolt and do it better that way.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Una Salus Victus.

Mods List:
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

The force needed to drive on that sprocket (remember, it's keyed, not interference fit) isn't enough to damage anything in the bottom end. It just takes a few hearty taps with a hammer to slide it on. The 2x4 is also there to help dampen the force of the blow. You'll do no damage.

Yeah, you guys are imagining this hammer on the CS sprocket a little too violently. It's hardly more than some insignificant taps to get it on there.

There definitely isn't any strain put on the actual crankshaft. On the neon boards, they recommended the same method.

Really? for some strange reason my crank sprocket was pretty damn tight? hehe oh well..it went on :)

I used a 32mm socket and a copper faced mallet called "Thor" to encourage that pulley into place. Then I tapped it one time too many and off to the store I was to rent the puller again. :rolleyes

Thank you all for your sage advice. As you can see in the new sig pic, much progress has been made. :thumbsup