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Armoned would you please tell me if you had to do anything to your cam position sensor to make it work with your crane cams?

also can you tell me how many teeth were the timing marks off by

thanks

I just put the cams in, checked the compression and it seemed to be fine (170-180 psi) in all for, tried to start the car and it would not start, took the cam position sensor bolts off and moved it ait, the car started, the tried that again and it would not start again.

does anyone know how many degrees crane cams are off by?

Adel

I do not know exactly, but Armond is at the SO so I thought I would help a little if I could. I know Armond had to make a bracket to alter the way the CPS is mounted. I also know the Crane cams are like 120 out. Now that is not an exact number, Armond will have to tell you exact, but I saw them and they were WAY out.
Joe
97 GS w/ Hahn stage 2
Keep cruisin' & keep the shiny side up.
http://joeseclipse.homestead.com

Well I can tell you my cams are a PERFECT fit. No redrilling for thr pins or CPS just drop in and go. I have been working with Dave at Crane for a while now with these things (as well as other parts) and have finaly gotten them along with my Titanium Valve kit and Accel Coil. I plan to have the top end of my project finished by the first 2 weeks of next month and will let you all know.

Pure Rage,

Most others seem not to fit... is urs the production version/newer version? which grind is urs?






Kory
ticklemekory@cisco.com
aim sn: dukmahsik
Happy Honda Hunting!

As I said I have been working with Dave for quite some time now on these, and can tell you that they are designed for my nitrous and boost, as well as to pull to 8,000+ rpms. Thats all I can tell you right now. :) Weather or not they are "production" model or shall I say shelf cams, I cant say. Give Dave a call and see what light he can shed on this for you.

The main question is "have you sucessfully turned the key with those cams in there?" becuase if you haven't, you will be in for quite a suprise I can guarantee (I have many bad words with "crane cams" in the same sentence). First off, the "right" cams that I got were STILL WAY WAY wrong (at least they were closed to matched wrong 'though. I posted the exact cam position before on the engine board I believe. I is probably in the archives by now 'though. from what I can remember off hand, the timing mark on the cam gears had to be moved 7 teeth for the cam to match the spec card "kinda close". I still had to advance the intake cam 4 degrees to get it to match the spec. card after the fact. the alignment holes on the top of the cams weren't even right if that tells you anything. they DID fit in the head 'though (if that's worth anything.....my machine shop guy said the very first ones didn't even want to fit backwards). the camshaft position sensor is OFF.......BAD. that is why your car won't start. plus, make sure your cams are degreed in EXACTLY right. check back in the archives, and see what results I came up with. I had to rotate my camshaft pickup about 60 degrees to get it to fire becuase it was WAY out of sync with the crank sensor (the whole deal with the cams havin to be degreed becuase they were 60 degrees off deal.....go figure). Basically, the easiest way to do this was to have another 2gnt side by side with my car and find TDC on that car. then find out where the cam triger magnet is pointing at tdc. It should line up dead center with the wiring harness on the cam pickup. now, find TDC on your car and figure out where the can trigger is CURRENTLY pointing on the crane cam (should be about 60 degrees out pointing like up and to the rear of the car). make a bracket to hold the cam pickup against the head and position the pickup JUST RIGHT with the trigger (it's best to make a little mark on the valve cover or something so you remember which way the trigger magnet is pointing)once you get that thing just right, and plug it in, you should have ignition (test it with a timing light to see if you have ignition and to see if it is accurate with what yoru computer is actually doing (0bd-2 program) Since the cam sensor is only used as a reffrence usu, you will just either have spark, or you won't. every time I checked to see if I had spark, the timing was right. JUST MAKE SURE those cams are degreed properly. Bending valves is a nasty feeling. I guess I can't really rag on crane too much, seeing that Dave told me that if the cams didn't work, he wold drive to atlanta himself to get them to work.......I just didn't have another 4 month's to f*&# around. Car sounds good with the cams 'though when MuRiX and I had it running.

A.D.P.
Bring it on............