There should be a way to test the ECU, by measuring resistance, continuity, etc. I've seen it done to others, does anybody know what the proceedure is?



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Una Salus Victus.

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if u think the ecu is toast.. we can jsut swap mine in there.. my cars not going to be goin anywhere for a while

It's one of my possibilities. My battery went bad, but I think the cells shorted out instead of a cell going bad. My Dad works for Laboratory that among other things tests batteries, and the way the charger acted when hooked up looked like it was shorted instead of just drained and a dead cell that wouldn't hold charge. So I fear a voltage spike may have done a little damage to the ECU. It's one of my theories.

I'll be in the garage onFriday trying to sort it out, I relly want this thing running by the shootout. I've be pricing replacement parts and trying to get stuff sorted out for the multiple possibilities of replacing various parts...

Do you have any revelations about the trans?



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Una Salus Victus.

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Michael, sorry man. I completely forgot to send the ECU this week. It completely slipped my mind.

No worries Thura, I'm stil curious f anyone knows the proceedure to test.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Una Salus Victus.

Mods List:
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I would also be interested in this information. I know the ECU in my 95 a/t is under the hood right next to the Tranny ECU. If your ECU is bad would your car still be able to turn over but not start.

I am getting no power to the fuel pump and have checked all the relays and they are all good. Only thing left to check is the ECU.


I'll keep checking back to see if somone sheds some light on this topic but until then I will keep searching.

Thanks

The battery did not harm the ecu, it sounds like you had a cell seprated in the battery. thats what happens when it will not hold a charge like you described. You can take it to a mitsubishi dealer and they should be able to help you. (with a HUGE price of course)
But whats the ecu doing to make you think that there is something wrong with it?

You can also get a mechanic shop to run a diagnostics on it with a machine (Snap-on) is best, it wil tell you if the car is ok to drive and what is wrong with, do not do this if your check engine light isnt on. the computer they plug in will connect directly to your ecu.
they usally run from around 35-50 a test. I get them for free =)

I'll sit there with a multimeter if anyone had the testign procedure...

The car wouldn't start when this was orginally posted, it has since been sorted out.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Smooth idle? We don't need no stinking smooth idle.

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