Heres the deal. I heard this very loud noise coming from the head part of the engine. It was always constant and loud, at idle or revving. So today I took the vc off to replace the lifters and while replacing a set on one side, i notice something. On the other camshaft there are 8 cam followers and 6 of them are wobbly. They look like they can just fall off. I even take one out without any effort. My questions is what the hell happend that caused this? what do I do now? Any answers would be great. Thanks

Were they wobbly before or after you put the new lifters in. Mine were wobbly before I put my lifters in - now they're tight and don't tick anymore.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.943 @ 86.48mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

two of them are going to be under heavy pressure, the ones that have open val;ves depending on what rotation the cam is in. It sounds like to me your lifters are shot. replace them and see what happens... the other posibilities are much more expensive, like bent valves...



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

They were like that before i even started working on it. I was a bit shocked. I got some new lifters and already put them in. The old ones look pretty worn. Im just waiting for my vc gasket to come in, then we'll see. Hopefully it will keep it working til i save money to do the bottom end and a head job. Thanks for the replies.

broken rocker arm??

Not unless he has 6 broken rocker arms... I doubt it.

*edit* Kyle posted pictures of his broken rocker arms... the only way they break is to actaully break pieces off, hard to miss.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Update:

Installed the new lifters and finished everything up. Started up the car and the loud knocking ( loud enough to hear it across the street) is still there. If its not the lifters, im guessing its rod knock. I drained my oil but there aren't any metal shavings. I only drove the car for like 4 min after the knocking took place . Is it possible to just change the main and rod bearings and possibly get the crank redone without doing anything major? I did plan on a rebuild, but I don't have 1600 dollars to spend yet so im trying to get away from doin that til winter. Shop quoted me at 350 with my own parts to replace them. Any suggestions? Could a bent valve also cause this knocking? Thanks

Yes you can pull the engine and machine just crank replacing the bearings.

If you're a brave sole, and I don't reccommend this, I think it was done by some ASOG guys in Wisconsin. Replace the bearing, motor still in the car, using a polishing cloth in the crank journals. Not the best way to do it, if you can afford a little down time, do it the right way and get thecrank to a machine shop, if that's indeed the problem.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Una Salus Victus.

Mods List:
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

I don't have the proper tools to pull an engine so I might just take it to a mechanic. They estimated 350 if I supplied my own parts. They didn't say how much they would charge if they provided the parts, but the warr. would cover both parts(their parts) and labor. So what should I do? Provide my parts (clevite 77 main and rod bearings) or have them install their own stuff?

I also read if I had bent valve, the car would have a hard time running or would run poorly since the valves would not close properly. My car runs fine except for the knocking. I appreciate all your help. Thanks!

lol, Michael_97RS, I read your also from chicago (close to it)

is it worse when the engine is cold or warm? does the "Knock" get louder the faster you go? and have you noticed your oil light come on any? usually if the rod bearings are bad enough to cause THAT loud of a commotion at idle, they will cause oil pressure to decrease, and tripping the oil light.

www.TeamKLR.com
1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 10.5 Pistons
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
440's

The car doesn't have any oil right now so Im telling from what I remember. I pretty sure the car sounds the same both whens it cold and warm. The car was at a good temp when it started to knock and it sounds the same when I first started it yesterday. My engine light was coming on when I would shift from 1st to 2nd and also when I let the clutch go but It wouldn't happen a lot. I had the oil changed the day before the knock first started happening, but i wasn't told anything special.

Heres the full story of events: (Long, sorry)

2 weeks ago I heard this ticking sound (very faint and only could be heard when i would go past 2krpm. Looked up ticking and came up with either a rod or lifter problem. Didn't notice any loss of power or anything out of the usual. About a week and a half ago I start noticing the oil light coming on. Figure I need to have the oil changed asap. 1 day later I took it and had put some special oil (my car has 128,xxxk miles on it so they put the proper oil they thought was best for a high mileage car). A day later Im coming home from my gfs house(she lives 45min away) and im about 5 min away from my house and while making a turn, my cars little ticking sound turns into a very loud knocking sound. Right when that happened, my car nearly died on me but didn't. For some reason I thought it was the tranny so I had it checked out. Guy says its not but sounds like a lifter problem. Says he'll fix it for 700 dollars.lol. Yea ok. Bought new lifters for 89 bucks off howell and put them in 2 days ago. Started the car up and loud knocking that was there before is still there. Drained oil but didn't find anything. (Should have found atleast something but didn't). So now im at this point. It doesn't bother me that my car is messed up. $hit happens. What is buggin me is I don't know what it is. I really don't wanna spend too much money since in about 7 months from now Im getting a new engine. I just need it because I have school to get to and other things I need. So I don't really care if it breaks in 8 months from now. I just need it to work now til I save enough money. Thanks for reading.

Wait you mentioned a warranty... why are you getting your hands dirty with this. In response to your question of bringing your own parts or having them order -- no warranty company is gonna reimburse you for parts you bring in -- the shop MIGHT do you a favor and order in the aftermarket parts -- BUT your warranty company would have to approve it -- so its gonna take a little finagling... ie the shop is gonna have to do you A BIG FAVOR. Secondly... if you were gonna rebuild the bottom end anyways...you might have a shot at having the warranty company pay for most of the work... have the shop take a look at it -- if they recommend a rebuild... tell them okay... I'd like you to order X parts... I will cover the difference in cost between stock and aftermarket (probably cheaper anyhow). Main thing here is the warranty company is gonna send out an adjuster so your shop had better not mention anything about you wanting to get aftermarket (more powerful) parts. SO... I would make really good friends with the shop really soon and see if you can't get your bottom end rebuilt for free...btw...take off all your mods right now... cause if the warranty company sees it... your warranty is as good as voided... i know the bs about must be direct cause etc.. etc.. but why taunt them??

Sorry, I didn't mean to make it sound that way. I bought the car used about 6 months ago, so thus no warranty. Only warranty I get is if the parts break, I get to keep both halves. The place I took it to was a tranny shop because I thought it was my tranny that was going because it was acting funny before. Ended up not being my tranny.I called another shop concerning replacing the main and rod bearings and they quoted me at 350 with my own parts. The warranty I was regarding to was the warranty for the shop to do the rod and main bearings with or without my parts. I get full warr. with their parts and only labor warr. with my own parts. What I don't know is if it really matters at this point what parts I get. The engine will get rebuilt in about 7-8 months or whenever winter is. Sorry about the confusion.

It would be nice to know a shop, not just for the discounts but you learn a lot.