OK WELL AS YOU GUYS KNOW ALREADY MY CAR WONT START HASNT STARTED IN A WHILE, WELL I CHANGED THE DISTRUBTER WIRES PLUGS GAS ALL THAT AND I WENT TO TEST IT AND I DUNNO (sorry for caps) if i did it right or not but no spark, now my next question is does the valve cover have a ground wire going to it i think this could be the culprit but i dont remember if it had one or not and where it went......and im gonna go for the bribe whoever awnsers first gets points!!

come on, anyone.....ground wire to valve cover????

theres a ground wire on your mani

does your car crank over?? try jumpstarting it? check your voltages

yeah theres a ground wire on the top left side of the VC and it attaches to the firewall pretty much right behind were it hooks up to the VC... $5.99 at autozone bro

Spark plugs ground through the cylinder head not the valvecover. Fo rno spark check resistance on the coil pack, check plugs them selves, wires. you can test for spark by pulling a plug at a time. and plugging it into the wire and then grounding the plug and cranking over you'll see if it sparks or not. Cam and crank sensors could be a culprit. Check for CEL codes.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

would cam or crank sensor be the reason it aint sparking, im pretty sure it isnt i'll be doing a final check in about half an hour but would it, i know that if there is that it should be those sensors cause thats the same thing that happened to a friend of mines so idunno........

Could be:
Crank sensor
Cam sensor
Bad coil
Bad plugs
Bad wires
ECU cooked
Bad wiring

Those are the options that come off the top of my head.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

ok so i know its isnt the coil, plug or wires, so is there any way to test the following without actuallly replacing it
>Crank sensor
>Cam sensor
>ECU cooked
>Bad wiring

no spark!!!!!!!!!!
tested everything with my meter coil is good wires good plugs good but i dont think theres any power getting to the coil what could be the problem, i need to get this thing started today

>>Crank sensor
This is from the tech info manual:
-------------------------------------------------
The notches generate pulses from high to low in
the crankshaft position sensor output voltage. When
a metal portion of the counterweight aligns with
the crankshaft position sensor, the sensor output
voltage goes low (less than 0.3 volts). When a notch
aligns with the sensor, voltage spikes high (5.0 volts).
As a group of notches pass under the sensor, the
output voltage switches from low (metal) to high
(notch) then back to low.
If available, an oscilloscope can display the square
wave patterns of each voltage pulse. From the width
of the output voltage pulses, the PCM calculates
engine speed. The width of the pulses represent
the amount of time the output voltage stays high
before switching back to low. The period of time
the sensor output voltage stays high before switching
back to low is referred to as pulse width. The
faster the engine is operating, the smaller the pulse
width on the oscilloscope.
By counting the pulses and referencing the pulse
from the 60 degree signature notch, the PMC calcu-
lates crankshaft angle (position). In each group of
timing reference notches, the first notch represents
69 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). The
second notch represents 49 degrees BTDC. The
third notch represents 29 degrees. The last notch
in each set represents 9 degrees before top dead
center (TDC).
The timing reference notches are machined to a
uniform width representing 13.6 degrees of crankshaft
rotation. From the voltage pulse width the PCM
tells the difference between the timing reference
notches and the 60 degree signature notch. The
60 degree signature notch produces a longer pulse
width than the smaller timing reference notches.
If the camshaft position sensor input switches from
high to low when the 60 degree signature notch
passes under the crankshaft position sensor, the
PCM knows cylinder number one is the next cylinder
at TDC.
----------------------------------------
It looks like you could test the sensor output by checking for voltage. If, when you crank the engine, the signal goes from low voltage(.3v) to high voltage(5v) then the crank position sensor is probably working fine.

>>Cam sensor
Again, this is from the tech info manual:
-------------------------------------------------
The camshaft position sensor attaches to the rear
of the cylinder head. A target magnet attaches to
the rear of the camshaft and indexes to the correct
position. The target magnet has four different poles
arranged in an asymmetrical pattern. As the target
magnet rotates, the camshaft position sensor
senses the change in polarity. The sensor output
switch switches from high (5.0 volts) to low (0.30
volts) as the target magnet rotates. When the north
pole of the target magnet passes under the sensor,
the output switches high. The sensor output switches
low when the south pole of the target magnet passes
underneath.
--------------------------------------------
So it looks like you could run the same kind of test on the camshaft position sensor as you would with the crankshaft position sensor.

>>ECU cooked
Get a new ECU

>>Bad wiring
Have you verified the grounding cables yet? Go through all of the grounding cables. Remove them at each point and clean the connector as well as the grounding surface with emory cloth(sandpaper). Basically make sure all of your grounding wires are doing their job.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.943 @ 86.48mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

ok so i was testingthe harness going to the cam sensor i was suppose to get readings off 8.5v for number 1 and 4.8 for number 3 i got a reading of .35 for number one and nyuthing for number 3, wtf could be causeing this

Where did you get 8.5v and 4.8v from? Not from anything I said. Maybe I missed a section in the fsm?

If you're getting .35. from 1 then try cranking the motor a bit, see if it flips up to 5.0v and then back down to .35v. If the output on that sensor switcthes back and forth from .35v to 5.0v then it's working. I'm not exactly sure, but you may need to crank it by hand(ratchet on crank bolt) instead of with the key in order to read the voltmeter properly.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.943 @ 86.48mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

it was the fucking ecu i got someone elses and that shit just started right up like if i havent spend 3 months trying to get her going, oh my but yea im excited it starts !!!!!

Your welcome JP......I got him runnin again. He needed a new ECM, somehow he must have shorted his out.

Well at least it's one more dsm on the road.....:thumbsup


GoodLuck Mang}(

Thats great news :thumbsup


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.943 @ 86.48mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

btw thank you all for your help and input :thumbsup

Glad she's running again.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC