I installed my ground wire kit, about 5 days ago. I have been riding around alot seeing what changes they have caused. I have noticed they:
-make the car idle smoother
-rev smoother
-better gas mileage by far
-interior lights are brighter
-starter doesnt sound stressed like before

Now here is the big thing. I made a trip from grandma house (Rock Mount, NC) to my dad's house (Clinton, MD), approx 250 miles. I filled up my gas tank to where the need was slightly above full (87 octane). I had 3 people in the car with luggage. When arrived at my dad's house the gas needle was above 3/4 full !!! Less than a 1/4 of a tank over a 250mile stretch.

I bought this kit from Ryan, he posted up here in the forsale section about the kit, the quality is excellent. Very easy to install and looks nice too.

Yea ive had my Sun Industries Hyperground System since January and it defently is a beautiful thing.....what kind did you get???????





Performance: Stuff that makes my car run better or go faster

Looks: Stock because looks doesnt make my car go faster or run better

Weight Reduction: CF Hood, No A/C or Powersteering Accessories, No rear interior

Hey guys.... say I am stupid if I am..but what is a ground kit?
waht is it for?
WHy you need it? and how can it make all the improve you listed above???
I am interested!! can you post some pictures of the ground kit. Thanks man.
Gil

Basically you know your ground wires your electronics and engine and battery have to use to gain some kind of power right????? well technically these ground wires replace those and it allows more power to be generated...well actually it really doesnt replace the factory wires because you can keep those on and still ground these to some place else...some place better.........I highly recommend them




Performance: Stuff that makes my car run better or go faster

Looks: Stock because looks doesnt make my car go faster or run better

Weight Reduction: CF Hood, No A/C or Powersteering Accessories, No rear interior

OK, so basically they are just WIRES. just a thick piece of wire that I connect the negative of the battery to the car body?
That's all??
Gil

And know..I do'nt know what yo uare trying to say.
Gil:thumbsup :7

i made my own with 4ga battery cables, i used a 2ga to the starter and alternator though.

I know the alternator and starter should be grounded better...but what else???

this might be stupid but where is the alternator ground wire and starter ground wire? any pics? ..

when i took this pic i didn't have the alternator ground on yet. the starter is the one just to the lower right of the headers.

man that looks sweet! i love the blue header by the way it's a nice touch. i have a question i've been looking into them for some time now.. i heard that playing around with grounding posistions make more hp gains?? did u notice any (if any) gains? i mean it might only be 1hp but for $100 u get some nice advantages and seems like no down side! i was thinking it would be a great mod in combination with UDP's getting ur volts back up after underdriving ur alternater. ........... how long was this install and did they give u suggested grounding points??? thanks guys

if you run a cable to the alternator gound you'll get the best gains.

This is how I hooked up my kit. The kit came with 5 wires, in certain lengths, for certain locations, but I got GHETTO and did my own stuff.

1-replace factory ground wire from intake mani to fire wall
2-from intake mani to alternator
3-from starter to neg battery post
4-from neg battery post to ground wire pack*
5-from ECU bolt to strut tower bolt**

*If you look under the hood there is a small black box near the brake fluid container. The box contains a bunch of ground wires probably for interior electronics.

**Near the driver side strut tower you will see that the batter is grounded there on the car's frame.

The Starter is grounded on top of the trasmission with some type of bracket.

I paid $45 for this kit, well worth the money.

After reading this thread and a few others that I searched for about grounding kits I decided to make my own yesterday. My kit basically consisted of 15 feet of 4 gauge wire and twelve 6 gauge ring terminals (blue). I ground the following items:

Intake manifold to firewall
Throttle cable bolt to firewall
Throttle body to strut bolt
Firewall to negative battery post.
Alternator to passenger side strut bolt
Engine block to firewall
Used old intake manifold strap and connected it from ECU to driver side bolt

The way I grounded most of the wires was in a series so that they terminated at the negative battery post. I felt the transmission and negative terminal had a pretty beefy cable already so I didn't replace those. I am still going to do the starter today, I just ran out of ring terminals. I also used some of the old grounding wires that were there and just added some more of my own. The install looks very clean.

Overall impression is that my car lost the hesitation it was having when I would get on the gas. The idle was much smoother and didn't fluctuate the way it would before the grounding wires. The car also seems to pull smoother to redline than before. I have yet to see if my mpg went up since I just filled up yesterday, but I figure this mod won't hurt. I spent a total of $15-20 and feel this was a great investment. If anyone is interested I can post some pics up here.

How you doing!
Please can you post pictures.
But the main thing is..
Can you tell us and list every wire you connect from and to.
Like
1) alternator to fireall...and so on for all the wires you did.
THANKS MAN>.... I am rebuilding my g/f engine but I am still interested to improve my own eclipse..lol...thanks.
Gil.:thumbsup

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p7fda396fd18c2d52ae887be5f6f61fde/fbf132b4.jpghttp://
www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/pa3f37292e3a2dc051d7a9d92633a6c8c/fbf12e08.jpghttp://
www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/pbd3284a03937c68eea3259a9c79c8322/fbf12e03.jpghttp://

None of the link works man..Thx

Lets try that again :)






Before you do any of the wires be sure to sand off any corrosion on the bolts or paint where you are going to be grounding things. The first pic shows where I grounded the alternator on the strut bolt ( my wires are black with blue wire terminals), if you follow that towards the passenger side headlight you can see the wire. That leads down to my fourth pic which is the alternator itself. You can see the black wire leading to the bolt on the alternator.

In my second pic you can see that I have a wire running from the fire wall to the left bolt on the throttle wire adjustment bolt. I also have a wire running from the right throttle wire adjustment bolt to another bolt on the firewall where I have two other ground wires meet.

The other two ground wires that are running off that firewall bolt are to my engine block which you can see in the Third pic. I used a bolt that is on the right side just below the valve cover and holds up a bracket for some other wires. You can see it as the little bit of blue in the third pic lower left. The other ground wire running off that bolt goes to the negative ground on the battery. I just sandwiched it in with the old cable and ran the bolt through the wire terminal.

The last wire that I ran was from the lower lefthand bolt (if you are facing it) on the throttle body. It runs from there over to the driver side strut bolt. I know the sensors on the TB are sensitive so I felt that this ground was necessary and probably helps with the idle fluctations I was having. I will post other pics later of the starter ground wire once I do it and posibbly the trans. if I have any 4gauge wire left. Hope this helps, post if you have any more ?'s

Almost forgot to mention that I took the old ground strap from the intake manifold and used it to ground the ECU. You can see in the pic that I connected the strap to the top right bolt that holds the black cover on the ecu and ran the strap to a bolt that holds the ecu bracket to the frame. Figured it couldn't hurt plus I had no use for that old ground strap, voila instant fix.

by looking at your grounds ive noticed that my ecu dosent have a ground wire like that... nothing at all going to the chasis... is there supposed to be?



AEM cam Gears,MSD ignition,Chikira 4-2-1 header,Custom 2.5" exhast,Pacsetter hiflo cat ,head p/p , intake p/p 2mm oversize tit valves , t/b p/p , shiftkit , TQ lockup mod , and much mor

That's sweet man... Nice setup.
I definitely have to do it.
Can you list from where to where list?
Thanks man.
Gil

>That's sweet man... Nice setup.
>I definitely have to do it.
>Can you list from where to where list?
>Thanks man.
>Gil


He did list from where to where a couple of times...

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=52930&mesg_id=52930&page=#53048

I was a little confused on that also. The different areas that are grounded are mentioned in my previous replies:thumbsup I did the starter and another point on the trans. today. I will most likely post pics later.

dont do it how juggalo did it, its a huge horrible ground loop and will cause serious noise if you have an audio system,etc..

there should only be one way to get to the negative battery spot, anymore and its a ground loop and thats bad

>dont do it how juggalo did it, its a huge horrible ground
>loop and will cause serious noise if you have an audio
>system,etc..
>
>there should only be one way to get to the negative battery
>spot, anymore and its a ground loop and thats bad


I never thought of that. i had my system stolen and my roll bars mount to where the rear speakers were. so i can barely hear the stereo over my muff. but it fixed my idleing problems, my car used to idle between 1300 and 900 rpms and the starter would stick occasionally. after i put the wires on it starts perfectly every time and my idle is super smooth.

>dont do it how juggalo did it, its a huge horrible ground
>loop and will cause serious noise if you have an audio
>system,etc..
>
>there should only be one way to get to the negative battery
>spot, anymore and its a ground loop and thats bad
so are you saying to run them straight not too run them in series

i'd love to see more pics this is definately going to be one of my projects soon

also do you guys think 4gauge is good enough or should i just use 2gauge/zero gauge?

thanks

The reason I used 4gauge was that Homedepot didn't have any larger size copper wire. Also I had trouble finding ring terminals that were big enough for the wires. Honestly I feel that 4 gauge is plenty big, considering the grounding kits out there seem to use 6 gauge. The grounding system on our cars aren't too shaby to begin with, but I felt for an extra $20 it was an easy mod.

alright :) i have a project for sunday now heh

so doin' it like this is no good??

and please explain the alternator and starter ground points to me


>Lets try that again :)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Before you do any of the wires be sure to sand off any
>corrosion on the bolts or paint where you are going to be
>grounding things. The first pic shows where I grounded the
>alternator on the strut bolt ( my wires are black with blue
>wire terminals), if you follow that towards the passenger side
>headlight you can see the wire. That leads down to my fourth
>pic which is the alternator itself. You can see the black wire
>leading to the bolt on the alternator.
>
>In my second pic you can see that I have a wire running from
>the fire wall to the left bolt on the throttle wire adjustment
>bolt. I also have a wire running from the right throttle wire
>adjustment bolt to another bolt on the firewall where I have
>two other ground wires meet.
>
>The other two ground wires that are running off that firewall
>bolt are to my engine block which you can see in the Third
>pic. I used a bolt that is on the right side just below the
>valve cover and holds up a bracket for some other wires. You
>can see it as the little bit of blue in the third pic lower
>left. The other ground wire running off that bolt goes to the
>negative ground on the battery. I just sandwiched it in with
>the old cable and ran the bolt through the wire terminal.
>
>The last wire that I ran was from the lower lefthand bolt (if
>you are facing it) on the throttle body. It runs from there
>over to the driver side strut bolt. I know the sensors on the
>TB are sensitive so I felt that this ground was necessary and
>probably helps with the idle fluctations I was having. I will
>post other pics later of the starter ground wire once I do it
>and posibbly the trans. if I have any 4gauge wire left. Hope
>this helps, post if you have any more ?'s


WTB--- Dodge Omni:


http://www.geocities.com/shadyporshe851proof/frame_content/indexframe.html

mods:
star stage III clutch, + the normal mods + bass + lights. well u get the pictur

hey i've been looking into them alot too but i can't find a hyperground system for decent money. when i originally read about them they quoted them for like $88 or something like that. and they did a whole article on how changing the ground points affect the how well they perform. it definately seems worth it, unfortunately im not much for doing a "custom job" i like the looks of the hyperground so more than likely i would do that. let me know what kinda prices u've seen out there thanks..

so exactly where do i attach the ground wire to the alternator and starter at?

i've done most of the other gound wires but not the alt starter or the one one "on the lower left hand bolt on the throttle body" i'm not seeing this one...

if you could explain where these wires go i'd appreciate it, thanks

WTB--- Dodge Omni:


http://www.geocities.com/shadyporshe851proof/frame_content/indexframe.html

mods:
star stage III clutch, + the normal mods + bass + lights. well u get the pictur

LOL.. haha..

How the tables turn..

2 years ago I suggested the same thing.. running a big ass ground to various points as the stock chassis grounds suck. Everyone's response? "Dave your full of crap, it won't make a bit of difference".. hahah...

But what do I know? eh?

On the subject of grounds.. anyone wanna hamper a guess as to why the wheel bearings are so susecptible to failure on the 2g suspensions? anyone? humm?

hehe.. what do I know. sometimes you guys are soo funny.. As for the grounding.. most of you are still doing it wrong, but i'll let you guys figure that out.

-- WheatKing

I'd like to know about the wheel bearings, mine have been humming for a couple years, more noticeable on corners.

But back to the ground wires, you better tell us the "right" way, or else! }(



Black '98 GS auto
I-vers intake
Custom ram air
Front & rear strut bars
OBX fog lights w/ fog light mod
RSR rear section
Stereo that goes BOOM

Please share your wisdom dude!

damn fisr time ive heard of this board turning someone into a mad car modder....freaky :-( reminds me of the honda forums my friend is always posting on.:wary

to answer wheatkings suggestions, the wheel bearings go bad so often because they are not grounded properly to our system

and why everyone is doing it wrong is because you should run all wires in series, there should actually be 2 ring terminals on all connections and the one just goes right to the next one and then at the end you go back to the battery.

thats why I said dont do it like juggalo because he/others are creating a ground loop

you guys are doing it wrong because you arent doing it in series, your just doing it like you have a big distribution block at the ground post which is not correct. it should be just like this

ground post-----alternator---intakemanifold----ecu--blah---blah---blah--right back to the ground post

basically imaging one long wire and you twist it around every ground spot without cutting it

Wheel bearings not grounded properly....? Explain please.

-Jared
96 GS
Melbourne, FL

its just how the whole setup was designed there isnt a proper ground to the wheel bearing and I believe that causes the bearings to fail do to lack of grease or something

i was thinking about doing this mod but then thought about me also wanting a batt relocation kit to the rear. how would i go about doing this. i assume the mods are compatible. i just dont think that running a long ground cable to the back of the car to complete the circuit so i dont get ground loop is the best way. someone shed some light for me. any and all ideas appreciated.

^^^^^ bumpy bumpy.anyone?

if your relocating the battery then you also need to relocate the ground wire by doing just so and running a ground wire to the back of the car. no way around it.

I have my battery in the trunk and I just grounded it to a bolt in the trunk. Everything seems to work fine. Is something happening that I don't know about?

>I have my battery in the trunk and I just grounded it to a
>bolt in the trunk. Everything seems to work fine. Is something
>happening that I don't know about?

well if your trying to have a ground wire system similar to the sun auto setup then you dont have it in series which is how gains are made and if your not runnin 2 ground wires from the battery then you dont have it wired right, but if you dont care about having your ground system run in series then your fine.

actually your probably missing some important grounds, like what did you do with the ground wire that went from the same spot the neg post was tied to the chassis by the shock towers, then a ground wire went from there to the block near the starter (what did you do with that ground??

Maybe Im blind but Im still not seeing where the grounds connect to the alternator or the starter.

They ground through the houseing themselves. Starter grounds through the transmission bolt and trans, aleternator through the bracket to the engine block.

The "kits"/home grown grounds, add aditional grounding for alternator. If you want to create the best ground for the engine the loop is the way to go. You can do it like stock and repplace wire and maybe see some gains if the wires were bad, but a straight path through and back to the starting point is what is suppose to work best.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Una Salus Victus.

Mods List:
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

so these kits don't come with instructions that suggest the best mounting points, etc? That kinda sounds shitty. How do you know ur fixing it up for optimum gains, etc?

Im looking for the alternator ground and cant find it. Can someone post a pic since there is no wire currently bolted to the passenger side fender to the alternator, is that ok? There is a small wire on the passenger fender but its not going to the alternater. Im just not sure where the alternator is and I want to do this right. Thanks

i think scc did a test on the sun setup on a suzuki aerio, hp gains were like 3-4. i put an aerospeed syste on my 98 gs and it did seem to make a difference. it is also nice to get people asking wtf?
-drew

would someone mind explaining the "series" technique again? and is the "series" technique used with a "store bought" grounding kit or would you have better results with the "home-made", "do-it-yourself" kit?

I just installed my kit and it made it run smoother. But i havnt had a chance to really drive my car since i put it on. And it does come with instructions.

I VOTE STICKY THIS THREAD!!!!