Sup guys., I will pull out the block in the coming Saturday. But today, I started calling many machine shop place to get quote on how much things are for .....repairs..etc...
Here is the price list:

'Dis/Re'-assemble the block: $300
Resurface the Crank Journal: $150
Buy a CrankShaft From Autozone: $158
Rod Bearing from Mitsubishi: $20 set (stock or oversize)
Honing the block: $60
Cleaning the block: $40
New Main Bearing: $68
Gasket Kit from Autozone: $110 (all gaskets)
Piston Ring Set: $????
Rods: ?????

You guys think the price above a good deal? or crazy?
Now, I decided to do the block myself now.. Even thou I am first timer..but I think $300 is just CRAZY.

Now my questions comes to place:
1) Should I just buy the crankshaft from Autozone? or resurface it? is the crank from autozone are resurfaced? will I need oversize bearing for either choice?
2) When I get the crank resurface, do I need to do all the journals?
3) Do I need to replace the main bearing? (so much)
4) Is the gasket kit from autozone good deal? needed?
5) Where can I get the piston ring set and the rods?? (I only wnat the stock) ($$$ is the main issue here)
6) If I really fucked up one rod (spun bearing), do I need to change all 4 rods?
7) If I got the crankshaft from Autozone, and all the journals on it is resurfaced, so that mean I need oversize bearing for it. Is that mean if I get brand new stock rod, I have to take the rod to do resurface also inorder for me to put the oversize bearing into it???

Please help. I am confused about this. I never disassemble an engine, and I never thought I will do it myself either... but now.. I guess I will, and as all others said.. I WILL learn alot. but I definitly need every single bit of help from all of ya.. THANKS guys.
:thumbsup :thumbsup

I appreciate everything!
Gil

>Now my questions comes to place:
>1) Should I just buy the crankshaft from Autozone? or
>resurface it? is the crank from autozone are resurfaced? will
>I need oversize bearing for either choice?
>2) When I get the crank resurface, do I need to do all the
>journals?
>3) Do I need to replace the main bearing? (so much)
>4) Is the gasket kit from autozone good deal? needed?
>5) Where can I get the piston ring set and the rods?? (I only
>wnat the stock) ($$$ is the main issue here)
>6) If I really fucked up one rod (spun bearing), do I need to
>change all 4 rods?
>7) If I got the crankshaft from Autozone, and all the journals
>on it is resurfaced, so that mean I need oversize bearing for
>it. Is that mean if I get brand new stock rod, I have to take
>the rod to do resurface also inorder for me to put the
>oversize bearing into it???

1) You'll have to examine the crank for damage to see if you can resurface it or replace it.
6) Bearing only and the fucked up rod. If you can find new ones cheap, why not but I dont think so.

THanks for the input man.

So??? any other inputs and answers to my other questions?
Come on guys... most of you guys did rebuilds here, help me out man!!
:wary :wary :rolleyes :rolleyes
Gil

Anyone? I really need help guys.
Gil. x( x(

CAN SOMEONE GIVE ME SOME IDEAS TO THE ABOVE PROBLEMS???

THANKS YOU. I don't care, any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Gil

the total for all of that stuff is probably around $1400.

do yourself a favor - get a shortblock from vtengines.com and install it yourself. it won't cost much more than $1600. i'd never trust someone else to do my engine, they'd screw something up and i'd just get upset at them. i'd never trust autozone to sell me a crankshaft that's halfway decent either. maybe i'm just bitter because the people at the local autozone are crackheads, but whatever.

GOD... please someone help me out here OK.
Thanks ner947 for replying back.
But not to be rude, but how the F**K it will end up with $1400???
I will do the assemble myself..and up to now...all my price will be arond $400 not including the rods and rings..

Which they are my questions posted above.. but Sadly, no one F**KING answer...waht's sup with everyone man. can't even help the poor 96 eclipse owner to fix his engine???
Please help guys!

Gil
:wary :wary :wary

P.S. And I really need some positive feedback here. everyone tells me it's HOPELESS, don't fix it, just get a new engine.. WTF.... is this true??/ I really can't fix it? is a spun bearing really that fucked up???
Gil:nono ;( x( :-(

>GOD... please someone help me out here OK.
>Thanks ner947 for replying back.
>But not to be rude, but how the F**K it will end up with
>$1400???
>I will do the assemble myself..and up to now...all my price
>will be arond $400 not including the rods and rings..
>
>Which they are my questions posted above.. but Sadly, no one
>F**KING answer...waht's sup with everyone man. can't even
>help the poor 96 eclipse owner to fix his engine???
>Please help guys!

A forged bottom end kit is about $1000. An extra $400 for machining and assembly. If you can get a better deal on forged parts, I'm sure everyone else would like to know about it.

OK, sorry if I cause any confusion, but I am only looking for a stock rebuild. I blew my g/f's engine, and I just need to make it back to how it was before (stock and run good) No upgrades in anyway.

Please now, can someone tell me the following things. Thanks again.
**************************************************************
Here is the price list:

'Dis/Re'-assemble the block: $300
Resurface the Crank Journal: $150
Buy a CrankShaft From Autozone: $158
Rod Bearing from Mitsubishi: $20 set (stock or oversize)
Honing the block: $60
Cleaning the block: $40
New Main Bearing: $68
Gasket Kit from Autozone: $110 (all gaskets)
Piston Ring Set: $????
Rods: ?????

You guys think the price above a good deal? or crazy?
Now, I decided to do the block myself now.. Even thou I am first timer..but I think $300 is just CRAZY.

Now my questions comes to place:
1) Should I just buy the crankshaft from Autozone? or resurface it? is the crank from autozone are resurfaced? will I need oversize bearing for either choice?
2) When I get the crank resurface, do I need to do all the journals?
3) Do I need to replace the main bearing? (so much)
4) Is the gasket kit from autozone good deal? needed?
5) Where can I get the piston ring set and the rods?? (I only wnat the stock) ($$$ is the main issue here)
6) If I really fucked up one rod (spun bearing), do I need to change all 4 rods?
7) If I got the crankshaft from Autozone, and all the journals on it is resurfaced, so that mean I need oversize bearing for it. Is that mean if I get brand new stock rod, I have to take the rod to do resurface also inorder for me to put the oversize bearing into it???
*******************************************************************

>Sup guys., I will pull out the block in the coming Saturday.
>But today, I started calling many machine shop place to get
>quote on how much things are for .....repairs..etc...
>Here is the price list:
>
>'Dis/Re'-assemble the block: $300
>Resurface the Crank Journal: $150
>Buy a CrankShaft From Autozone: $158
>Rod Bearing from Mitsubishi: $20 set (stock or oversize)
>Honing the block: $60
>Cleaning the block: $40
>New Main Bearing: $68
>Gasket Kit from Autozone: $110 (all gaskets)
>Piston Ring Set: $????
>Rods: ?????
>
>You guys think the price above a good deal? or crazy?
>Now, I decided to do the block myself now.. Even thou I am
>first timer..but I think $300 is just CRAZY.
>
>Now my questions comes to place:
>1) Should I just buy the crankshaft from Autozone? or
>resurface it? is the crank from autozone are resurfaced? will
>I need oversize bearing for either choice?

I have no clue if autozone sells ground stock cranks or if they are new castings. They should be able to answer that one for you. If the crank journals have been ground, then they will tell you what size bearings are needed. If you have your stock crank ground and polished, then the machine shop will tell you how much they took off and what size bearing you will need.

>2) When I get the crank resurface, do I need to do all the
>journals?

Some say yes, some say no... My personal thoughts on the subject are that you do not need to touch the others. Dont fix something that isnt broken.

>3) Do I need to replace the main bearing? (so much)

You do not need to replace the main bearings or the thrust bearing if none of them are spun.

>4) Is the gasket kit from autozone good deal? needed?

The gasket kit sounds like a good deal if it comes with the lower and the upper gasket sets. If it comes with only the lower or only the upper, then I would give Bob kise at Forum Dodge in Fenton MI a call and get the OEM kits.

>5) Where can I get the piston ring set and the rods?? (I only
>wnat the stock) ($$$ is the main issue here)

Again, call Bob Kise at Forum Dodge and tell him you are a member of 2gnt forum for a discount. They can get you a stock piston ring set. The rods are not sold by themselves. They are sold as a piston/rod combo. You probably don't need a whole new piston and rod though. A good machine shop can align bore the rod so that it can be resued with an oversize bearing.

>6) If I really fucked up one rod (spun bearing), do I need to
>change all 4 rods?

No, you dont.

>7) If I got the crankshaft from Autozone, and all the journals
>on it is resurfaced, so that mean I need oversize bearing for
>it. Is that mean if I get brand new stock rod, I have to take
>the rod to do resurface also inorder for me to put the
>oversize bearing into it???

No, you can leave the rod alone and use the proper oversize bearing.

>Please help. I am confused about this. I never disassemble
>an engine, and I never thought I will do it myself either...
>but now.. I guess I will, and as all others said.. I WILL
>learn alot. but I definitly need every single bit of help
>from all of ya.. THANKS guys.
>:thumbsup :thumbsup
>
>I appreciate everything!
>Gil

No problem, but please be patient with people when they don't respond as soon as you need them to. Getting all frustrated with the people on this fourm for not giving you information exactly when you want it, when they are not obligated to do so at all whatsoever, makes people not want to help you out at all. Good luck with your project.

Since it didn't want to postthis for me before I went to lunch here we go:

>'Dis/Re'-assemble the block: $300
>Resurface the Crank Journal: $150
>Buy a CrankShaft From Autozone: $158
>Rod Bearing from Mitsubishi: $20 set (stock or oversize)
>Honing the block: $60
>Cleaning the block: $40
>New Main Bearing: $68
>Gasket Kit from Autozone: $110 (all gaskets)
>Piston Ring Set: $????
>Rods: ?????
>
>You guys think the price above a good deal? or crazy?
>Now, I decided to do the block myself now.. Even thou I am
>first timer..but I think $300 is just CRAZY.

Do you have a piston ring compressor? Ridge reamer? plastigauge? cylinder hone? Puller for crank sprocket? Torque Wrenches? That's off the top of my head on what special tools are needed when tearing apart and rebuilding the block. It's a precise matter, everything needs to be within certain tolerances.

Are you sure that $158 is for a crank from Autozone and not for them to send it off for machining? That's about half of a good price from the dealer, now I know OEM parts are more expensive but that just sound cheap, it's notlike we get mass produced parts and they are dirt cheap like a Chevy V-8.

>Now my questions comes to place:
>1) Should I just buy the crankshaft from Autozone? or
>resurface it? is the crank from autozone are resurfaced? will
>I need oversize bearing for either choice?

Ask Autozone for more info on the crank and you'll have your answers.

>2) When I get the crank resurface, do I need to do all the
>journals?

I would. At least all the rods, if the mains are fine leave em.

>3) Do I need to replace the main bearing? (so much)

I'd replace the bearing while it's apart, but unless there's damage, no need for machining.

>4) Is the gasket kit from autozone good deal? needed?

Don't know what gaskets they use in the kit so I couldn't tell you. Call Bob Kise at Forum Dodge and check his prices they are good qulity gaskets. http://www.neons.org/forumdodge/

>5) Where can I get the piston ring set and the rods?? (I only
>wnat the stock) ($$$ is the main issue here)

Again if you are looking OEM or cheaper just go local parts and compare to Forum Dodge.

>6) If I really fucked up one rod (spun bearing), do I need to
>change all 4 rods?

The rod itself should be fine, just the crank seeing damage. Unless you really messed it up and fubarred a rod, but I highly doubt it, then just replace whats damaged.

>7) If I got the crankshaft from Autozone, and all the journals
>on it is resurfaced, so that mean I need oversize bearing for
>it. Is that mean if I get brand new stock rod, I have to take
>the rod to do resurface also inorder for me to put the
>oversize bearing into it???

Ask autozone for details on the crank.

>Please help. I am confused about this. I never disassemble
>an engine, and I never thought I will do it myself either...
>but now.. I guess I will, and as all others said.. I WILL
>learn alot. but I definitly need every single bit of help
>from all of ya.. THANKS guys.
>:thumbsup :thumbsup

Now with your questions answered (I think), I'll say this. You will need specialized tools, check that you can rent, or afford to buy what you need. There are tolerences with the engine that need to be within a certain spec. Have a good service manual that covers the specs. even once machines you should use the pastigauge the ceck clearances for bearings, and then there is ring gap, etc. You may ask the machine shop what they charge for just assembly of the engine. Then you know that all the clearances are being checked. And it shouldn't cost you/your girlfriend as much.

And yes, patients young grasshopper, we realize you are in a hurry, and want help. But not everyone is on the 24 hours a day to rapidly respond. The answers will come.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Thank you guys.
i am sorry for all the pushing and rushing...but as I said..I was just worried and..kinda scared I will fuck things up..but THANK YOU SO MUCH for replying with so many answers.
I greatly apprecaited.

About the special tools you tlaking about? what are they?
I got the torgue wrench, I got all the specs and info on me. I got the puller. But what is the piston ring compressor? Ridge reamer? plastigauge?... what they each for?

About the crank, if I spun a bearing, so all I need is to resurface the crank? no need to do the rod? and other journal?

And finally my last question, is it really that hard to put and assemble an engine block?
Thanks guys.
Gil.

Piston ring compressor and ridge reamer can be borrowed from Autozone for free, with a 40 dollar deposit. If you don't have a factory service manual, now would be a good time to get one. Just take your time with it, and all will be well. As for the rod, because of the cracked cap nature of the rod, a spun bearing will push it out of spec. I would replace it, myself. Let me know if you need one, as I have a full set of SOHC pistons/rods sitting here. I would have the old piston installed on this rod, as the rods are the same, but the pistons are not. E-mail me for more details...
Best of luck,
-=B-=

Thanks man.
Are you giving them for me for free? :7 :7
Or how much you want them for? I can pay for the shipping!!:thumbsup :thumbsup

Thanks alot man.:thumbsup :thumbsup
Gil

What exactly is wrong with the engine? Is it just a spun rod bearing? What is your goal for this engine? Just to get it back to running? If all you did was spin a rod bearing, all you really have to do is get the crank machined on the one journal that was spun, then get an oversized rod bearing. Thats it. YOu can leave all your old parts to put back in. At very least, hone the cylinders, and install new rings. A good thorough check of all bearings, cylinders, and crank, will tell you what you HAVE to have done. If this is just a daily driver, and will never see performance engine wise, then just do what you absolutly have to. Of course, you will need all new gaskets and timing belt componets too while you are at it. If money permits, have the head cleaned, and hot tanked, and have a valve grind done, and have new oil stem seals installed. And dont ask Autozone about anything. They are just parts slingers..

Tools:
Piston ring comressor(buy one, they are cheap)
Plastigauge(def use this on the machined journal)
Set of feeler gauges(to measure precise gaps, esp piston ring end gaps
Cylinder hone

You dont have to have a ridge reamer either. I used some 3M scotchbrite pads, to remove any carbon buildup on the top of the cylinder. You MUST do this to prevent any damage to the piston/rings when pushing out the piston from the cylinder. You will need some anerobic sealant for the bedplate to block, and the oil pump to block connectoins. Follow the 420A service manual EXACTLY! Its VERY important to use proper torque specs on every bolt in the motor! Use some good assembly lube also on all the bearing surfaces when assembling the motor. Dont use oil. Dont forget the small O ring that goes between the bedplate and block, near the oil filter gallery hole.

If all you did was spin a rod bearing, then all you need to do is get that one crank journal machined and one over sized rod bearing. If you SEVERLY spun the bearing, like it totally went though the bearing, into the rod, then you will need a new rod/cap. If the bearing is just scored really bad, and is still intact, then just get oversized bearing. You just have to visually inspect it, to see if you can reuse your rod/cap. If all is ok, you can reuse you rod/cap, as those will not be damaged.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! I finially get a perfect answer that I needed. THANKS MAN!!

BTW, one last question. What you mean by checking the precise bearing gap?? waht you mean by that? and how do I do it and so on. I need more detail on that section.

Thanks again!!
You are the best!!!! And so are all other DSMer!!! :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup

uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
DWAYNE H

www.gottude.com
Red/Black/Silver 01 GSXR 750
Lots of Apexi components...

What's all those UUUUU for??? =)
Thanks again.
Gil

you still want the engine?
DWAYNE H

www.gottude.com
Red/Black/Silver 01 GSXR 750
Lots of Apexi components...

Hi, Yes I do. I am pulling the engine out TODAY. SUNDAY.
And I will take it apart. and see how fucked up it is.
I will PM you again after today ok!
THanks man.

And are you the one who emailed be about going online to AIM?

Thanks guys... wish me luck!!!
Gil

yup, that was me
DWAYNE H

www.gottude.com
Red/Black/Silver 01 GSXR 750
Lots of Apexi components...

>
>BTW, one last question. What you mean by checking the precise
>bearing gap?? waht you mean by that? and how do I do it and so
>on. I need more detail on that section.
>

Well the best way to find the bearing clearance(gap) between the bearing and the crank journal, is to use Plasigauge. This stuff is small strips of compressible material. You put one of these small strips on the bearing, then torque down the bearing cap. Take it back off, then take the flattened out piece of plastigauge and measure it with the card they give you. You match up the width of the plastigauge with the measurements on the card, to give you how much clearance you have in thousands of an inch ( .xxx) You will need the stock specs for what the maximum measurment is.

Just start out by taking it apart and visually inspecting everything. Thats really the first step BEFORE you do anyting, or buy anything. If you can, take some pics and post them up, so we can give you more guidance as to what to do. Good luck.

In the 420a's that I have seen, once the bearing spins, the rig end of the rod is misshapen, and more prone to re-spinning. The problem lies in the rod bearing retainer grooves. See how they continue from the cap to the rod? Well, on aftermarket forged rods, the groove on the cap ends where it meets the rod, and the groove on the rod ends where it meets the cap. This provides a secure place for the rod bearing to sit against.
And yes, just pay shipping and the stock rod/piston is yours. Just have the piston taken off of the one that I send you, and have your old piston pressed onto the rod.
-=B-=

Thanks man... I think I need a new rod. as you said, it's prolly damaged.
But anyhow.... I FINALLY took off my block today and took about 20 picture just for that.
I will organize them and will post them up and post more message up here on what's the close up and what's up with my engine.

But for quick, one of the rod, (looking from the bottom-crank) one rod is COMPLIETELY BLACK, and the other 3 is normal oil color. Also, that black one is above to move up and down like 1/4 inch... So I think I fucked up that bearing.

BTW, you really think I should get new rod. but just incase, I will change that one fucked up one. Also, you think I should change all 4 rods? or should I just keep the 3 good ones and change the spun bearing one??

THANKS "The1Bill"... how you want me to send you the shipping?
My Zip code is 06906. How much shipping you need for it?
Thank again!!!
I greatly apprecaited. and I will post all the detail tomorrow!
Gil:thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup

i take it your not interested in the new motor?
DWAYNE H

www.gottude.com
Red/Black/Silver 01 GSXR 750
Lots of Apexi components...

Hum, Well, I will take the motor apart today. But yes. Sorry for all the trouble, but now since Ionly see a spun bearing. I will just go ahead and fix it up. it's alot cheaper! Thanks thou.

So, "The1Bil" Just PM me or something about this shipping, and I will get them to you as soon as I can. If you want, I have paypal also, Thanks man. (I can throw in a couple bucks for you to get some beer... lol)

THank everyone for all your great help!!!
As soon as I can get my STUPID photoshop running again, I will lower the pictures size, and post them all up to here and share them ALL to you guys.

But in the mean time, what you guys think about what I said above? about one is all black, and the other (3) is oil color, and the black rod is like above to move up and down.

Thx!
Gil:thumbsup :thumbsup (I LOVE YOU ALL!)