Ok my fellow tuners, I need some serious input. What, in your own opinions please, is the proper way to break in the new motor?

Some background, I have 310's and an FMU with I think a 12:1 disk but I can't be sure, pistons are 8.8:1 standard bore. I really don't want to loose this motor, everything tha'ts been built so far as been assembled by me. I trust myself to make sure everything it torqued and assebled right, what I need to know now is how to best break it in. I've heard heat cycle and fast breakin. Help me out here, this is motor#2!!!

start it up and BE SURE to get it to full operating temps. In this time, look carefully for any oil, coolant, and fuel leaks. If all is ok, then take the car out, and do some 30-60 mph runs, running it not all out, but somewhat hard. Keep doing that maybe 5-10 times, as this will load the rings, which will help them seat to the cylinder walls. After the first 500 miles, change oil. Change again at 1000, then next at 3000. At 3000, its safe to use synthetic oil if you choose. Dont be afraid to run the motor hard when its new. If you assembled everything properly, running it hard will only do one thing. Break in your rings. Thats a good thing. Its very important that the motor is fully warmed up though when you do it. I didnt baby my engine when i built it, and its running strong, 185 psi accross all cylinders. Dead even.

Very good advice, I personally would hold off on really boosting or hard runs until after the 1000 mile mark.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Double posting like an idiot.

Also depends on who rebuilt your engine and what they set your clearences on... I mean If they left them a little on the loose side then engine break wont take as long... But If they kept them on the tight side then theres more of a chance for breaking things and you should break in longer. :o

Standard Bore rings and pistons......any other advice!

Every engine I have ever built the first thing after it runs for about 15 minutes or when ever the temp reaches operating is to change the oil. Why? After machine work is done fine pieces of metal are still inside the block no mater how good you wash it down and wipe it down. After that just drive it easy for about 15 to 20 miles never revving it hard or getting on it. After about 500 miles it should be good to go. This is just the method my dad taught me back in the day. If you got boost I would leave it low prolly for 1k then slowly work it up just to be safe. One thing about engine break-in, about everybody I have ever met or have talked to on this has their own method and some of the break in depends on the quality of parts you use also. Good luck.

Clearances have little to do with how to break in a motor. They will just decide the "characteristics" of the motor. Like said before, just make sure every is nice and warmed up and then run it pretty decently and make sure you vary your speeds. I have built several drag motors and never had a kaboom due to break-in. Drive it like you plan to. Also I changed oil the first 500 miles only b/c you have a good oil filter.(right?) BTW Do NOT use Fram oil filters. They tend to blow up under higher oil pressures and I have witnessed it.

> BTW Do NOT use Fram oil filters. They tend
>to blow up under higher oil pressures and I have witnessed it.
>

Really? I have never seen this and have always used Fram filters. I use to race at Hickory Speedway in pro-mini and limited sportsman running built 4cyls and 6cyls. Always had over 100lbs of oil pressure and never seen that before. What type of pressure pops one?

We mostly saw it in high pressure/high vol springs in our SB chevy's and a BB chevy. Only one I saw was in a SB chevy but other's crushing the inside after we sawed them in half. My high perfomance motor teacher actually told me that. Before then I always used Fram too. Now I use motorcraft, cheaper and better.

This IS true. Fram filter are fine for normal and modded engines but stay away from them for HP applications. This is one of the first things you'll learn in auto/diesel school.

so what oil filter do you guys recommendd?
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

The Fram Tough Guard actually doesn't have as many problems as yoru base Fram filter, that will give way under high power apps and lots of pressure.

Purolator Pure One is the filter I use.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

I use WIX!

Purolater(sp) and Wix are both damn good filters. We've had both cut in have and DO NOT bypass as much oil as most others.

whose the thread ninja who turned this into the oil filter thread?!?! hahaha. anyways i just semi rebuilt my engine(changing it from a non-turbo to turbo) and right now i'm just running it normally i don't take it past 5,000 rpm and i'm throwing a lil boost on it but not full boost. i never heard anyone say you should drive it like a bat outta hell to seat the rings properly.

actually, ive heard from many people that to run it hard, cause you want the rings to set within the first 50 miles, not bat outta hell hard, but just hard, like put it in third gear and run through third to redline, slow down, do it again etc

Originally posted by klipzracer
drive it like a bat outta hell

ROFL, that's Xactly "word 4 word" what my wife & her family says on how I drive... are you from the stix?

- J

mobil 1 oil and filters. all the time. 15w-50 is my favorite scent.

Sup man... just read this site 2 - 3 times and you will konw exactly what to do ok.
http://www.rpmrons.com/enginestartup.html

Gil.

>Sup man... just read this site 2 - 3 times and you will konw
>exactly what to do ok.
>http://www.rpmrons.com/enginestartup.html
>
>Gil.


This is the place i had build my engine!! very friendly people to work with and did a great job on my engine!!! they even painted it for me :)


- Phil

1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS (Custom Turbo T3/T4) FMIC
SAFC, 480CC Injectors MSD-DIS2...

Was my X-wife's car...:thumbsup :thumbsup teach her not to sleep around

I have just finished rebuilding my engine and asked my mechanic friend for advice on break in. Now he is no ordinary mechanic, this is seriously the best ive ever seen, he is a genius, he owns his own shop in cocoa beach florida, and there is a 3 month wait for work done hes that good. But heres what to do for break in, keep in mind im breaking in cp 10.5:1 pistons w/wiseco rings.

Start the car, let it idle for 1 hour
Shut the car off, let it cool completely
Start the car again, let it idle for 1 hour,
Shut the car off, let it cool completely
Start driving the car and for the first 300 miles rpm's only from 1500-2000, NOT OVER, at 300 miles, change oil and filter.
From 300-800 miles, rpm's from 1500-2500, NOT OVER, at 800 change oil and filter.
From 800-1500 miles, rpm's from 1500-3000, NOT OVER, at 1500 change oil and filter and break in is complete

yikes this is old! Check dates before replying...

Originally posted by 98Turbo420A
Ok my fellow tuners, I need some serious input. What, in your own opinions please, is the proper way to break in the new motor? Some background, I have 310's and an FMU with I think a 12:1 disk but I can't be sure, pistons are 8.8:1 standard bore. I really don't want to loose this motor, everything tha'ts been built so far as been assembled by me. I trust myself to make sure everything it torqued and assebled right, what I need to know now is how to best break it in. I've heard heat cycle and fast breakin. Help me out here, this is motor#2!!!

Change the oil at 500 miles. First time you run it, heat cycle it. Run it down the road at like 70 mph in 3rd, then shift to 5th and slow down to 40 mile per hour. The will heat and cool the cylinders helping the rings to seat. Do that about 4 times, then let the car cool off to dead cold (overnight), then drive it like a rental.

As stated, everyone seems to have their own method of break in. I personally used a method similar to what Xtreme posted, except I changed my oil after 5-6 miles just to eliminate any grime, dirt or shavings.

holy old posts batman! This was first started in 03!

You probably reduced the life of your engine by changing the oil that soon. You didn't give enough time for the solvents to full disolve into the oil to be removed with the first oil change. That is why we recommend 500 miles before the first one.

If you have grime, dirt or shavings in a new motor, then somebody did a piss poor job of cleaning the block and parts before assembly. Our engines are assembled in a clean room.

Originally posted by techboy
As stated, everyone seems to have their own method of break in. I personally used a method similar to what Xtreme posted, except I changed my oil after 5-6 miles just to eliminate any grime, dirt or shavings.

i dont like the method from above...1000-2000 miles?? with 8.8 compression and now boost, will the car move?? i did hard pulls from 30 to 60 about 20 times, then just beat the shit out of it with boost and she holds great
doug

So, if you put a new clutch in right when it's rebuilt, how do you recommend breaking all of it in?? Spec stage 4 and full rebuild.
~Jeffo


Hey, have you seen my tail lights? Yeah, well get used to looking at them.

Originally posted by powellds
So, if you put a new clutch in right when it's rebuilt, how do you recommend breaking all of it in?? Spec stage 4 and full rebuild. ~Jeffo Hey, have you seen my tail lights? Yeah, well get used to looking at them.

Some people say you dont even need to break in a cltuch, but what i have usually done, is when taking off from 1st, slip the clutch more than normal. Bt this I dont mean rev the shit out of it, and slip it, but just take a bit longer in the engagement to get the car moving. You just have to be careful with building up too much heat when you over slip it, which can glaze the pucks or flywheel surfaces. I'll usually slip it around 2000-2400 in first, but let off the clutch slowly to give it a longer full engagement. This lets the pucks break in with the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces a bit faster than just doing a normal engagement. In normal driving/shifting, the clutch slips minimally, so it takes longer to break in the linings, if just being too easy on it.

I just did that exact setup, just a lil bit more. I was told from the 2 shops that were working on my car.. Keep it above 1000RPMS and no higher than 3500RPMS for 2-3K miles. Keeping all boost off, then have fun.