My engine has started to overheat recently. It first started when I was driving around town one day and noticed the water temp rose pretty quickly. I caustiously drove it home.

I flushed the radiator with Zerex radiator flush and filled with 25% coolant, 75% water and a bottle of Redline water wetter. I also installed a 160 degree thermostat and a 16LB radiator cap. I then took the car for a 10 minute drive and the water temp went up again!!!

I tested the coolant temp sensor per the service factory manual. It read .94K Ohms, which is a bit high. It should be .6-.8K for a warmed up engine. So I installed a new sensor. Drove the car around town and the water temp stayed at about 195 degree all that time. However, when I got home and parked the car, I noticed the water temp began to rise!!!!

I just don't what's causing this to happen. Has anyone experienced this kind of problem or know what could be causing this problem? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

I'm going thru the same thing, it'll rise quickly and drop slowly. I too have tried the same steps you have, but to no avail. I was told it was my headgasket going out, and it's time for it to be replaced. Don't know about you though, you're a high staged turbo so yours should be fine.

headgasket or water pump? ic is blocked?
just a idea
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

I'm kinda think the huge fmic is restricting cooling of the radiator, but that's just a guess. This problem didn't really occur until after I installed the new fmic.

try playing with the front ic idea. try trimmin your front bumper inforcement etc more? see if that helps
good luck
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Yeah without the airflow you will get sligtly higher temps.

Another thing you could try is to use Dex-Cool and Water Watter mix, no water. Dex Cool runs cool and the water wetter will help also t cool off faster.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

It's your water pump, I bet you $5.... I had this same problem on mine and went through the same process of fixing the exact same things. My problem showed up right after my HG and water pump replacement. So I went through all the steps that you have and settled on the fact it had to be the RAD. and was prolly due to the IC blocking it. But then I thought if Dino and the guy's in TX run high boost in the summer without this problem then that ain't it. So when I take the car to get inspected for the year I see that coolant has been leaking through the weep hole because the damn water pump had been fouled since I put it on the damn car. I don't know if you have looked under the car but I would check it out. If your not seeing oil in your coolant or vice versa, then I wouldn't think it would give you a big cooling problem like you have, but I may be wrong on that one.

I hope it's not the water pump. It's a b*tch to change. My water pump is only about 12K miles old, I wonder if it could go bad already. Keep the ideas coming guys!!

That was exactly what I thought and that's why I replaced all that other stuff. "It can't be the water pump because I just replaced it!" But in my situation it was the WP. Just next time you have it in the air or on ramps check all around your water pump body and timing belt cover for coolant residue. In fact check all around that side of the motor because that stuff flies.

OK, I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but it seems the overheating has stopped. I really didn't do anything different, except that I jiggle around the fan connectors and things. I noticed that both fans kicks on when the car is idling. I never really paid attention to it before, but when the overheating was occurring, the A/C fan didn't kick on--only the radiator fan. And just today, I noticed both fans kick on at the same time when the car is parked after a drive----thus, not overheating. Again, I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for all the comments/advices!

Well to my knowledge, correct me if I'm wrong here, but the AC fan is not supposed to be on unless the blower (the HVAC turn dial for the AC)is on. Was the AC on when you stopped this time, or at least the blower? Those fans should not be running at the same time unless you A. have the blower on. B. have done the fan mod that keeps them both on together.

I believe if the temps get hot enough, both fans will come on, regardless of the A/C being on. I know other cars are like this, so not 100% sure on ours. I've never seen both fans come on when at idle..thats odd. Sounds like its taking both fans to keep the engine temps normal. That isnt normal, but it def could be the lesser airflow to the RAD from the front mount.

You know I have the SAME thing. When i turn on the AC to enable the 2nd fan, the temps go down a tad. I also hav ethe hrc fmic, and I have a fresh new block (with new water pump) and all. No gasket leaks, no coolant leaks that i know (and i just inspected my underside of my car recently).

also have the 160 thermostat. Only thing I can contribute to this is that my radiator is still original - 130k miles so I figure this is time for me to get a fluidyne =)

_________________
Vinnie Lima
vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

Yeah, after a long drive, or if the engine gets really hot, both fans will kick on--even without the heat or A/C on. I didn't do any mod. It's always been that way with my car, but I just didn't think it would make that much difference if the other fan doesn't kick on. Eventhough the overheating has stopped, I think I'm still going to upgrade to a Fluidyne or any other brand aluminum radiator because I'm running higher boost and the bigger FMIC.