I finally got the head off the engine. I have a '95 with the original head gasket. The #7 bolt was too long for its hole...alowing some oil to leak out the back of the block. It was obvious once I had the head off. I bought new head bolts. The only bolt that comes out without removing the cams is #7. I will shave 1/16" off the new #7 bolt and install it. But the rest of the bolts won't come out without removing the cams. I would like to avoid pulling the cams out (don't have the special tool to hold the rocker arms). All of the old bolts are in perfect condition (no stretching). Is is OK to re-use those bolts? My life will be much simpler if I only have to replace the #7 bolt and re-use the rest. The factory manual says its OK to re-use them if they are in good shape. I need your opinions...


Corbin
'95 ESI-T
HRC + FMIC
http://members.nbci.com/cbehnken/

I reused my head bolts when RRE replaced the valves and head gasket. Hopfeully it should be ok. Anyone else know for sure??


eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom

I PREFER using NEW bolts but in my past experiences I have found this. USUALLY the Factory manual says use "NEW BOLTS". SO, if it says you can reuse the old bolts, I would reuse them if you HAVE TO. But the time and labor involved,in my opinion, would mean NEW BOLTS to me.
GOOD LUCK

I wouldn't take the chance and use new head bolts, better sae than sorry. And compared with the cost of doing anything else with the head, it is worth the price as insurance

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.803 @ 86.48 MPH

What special tool are you talking about? Don't you have the head off already? I thought that's what you said. If so then all you have to do is remove the cam caps and the cams come off the head. The only thing who have to be careful of is when you re-install the head you don't want the engine at TDC. The best way to do it is set the engine so that all the pistons are at half stroke, install the head & cams, set the cams at TDC then set the engine at TDC. I've worked on my head & cams many times and have never used any special tool.
Joe
97 GS w/ Hahn stage 2
Keep cruisin' & keep the shiny side up.
http://joeseclipse.homestead.com

One more note, PLEASE don't use the old head bolts. The chances are that they are stretched. When they are strecthed they will cause the head to not seal properly because they are longer that they should be. For $40 I always get new head bolts. Just my opinion.
Joe
97 GS w/ Hahn stage 2
Keep cruisin' & keep the shiny side up.
http://joeseclipse.homestead.com

what is TDC? and how do you set it to TDC?


___________________________
l e o n
1995 Eagle Talon ESi-T
Star Stage 2
Boost is GOOOOOOOD!

LAST EDITED ON 05-Jul-01 AT 12:43 PM (PST)

TDC-top dead center...piston at top of stroke
BDC-bottom dead center...piston at bottom of stroke

You've convinced me. I'll pull the cams out and put in my new bolts. The shop manual shows some sort of special tool to hold the rocker arms in place. But if its not needed, thats cool. I would feel much safer if I replace all the bolts. Thanks...

Corbin
'95 ESI-T
HRC + FMIC
http://members.nbci.com/cbehnken/

okay...here's a question for ya...

I'm pretty sure that's the same bolt that causing my minor leak out the back of the motor.

can I just pull the valve cover, pull just that one bolt, and replace it with a new(shorter)one without having to pull off the head??

__________________________
...just my $.02
95 GS

The problem is not the bolt but an oil return hole close to it. It is not flat and does not seal properly with the old style gaskets. Tightening the Head Bolts is not a permanent fix.
GOOD LUCK

I've been told several times that the bolt hole not being deep enough is part of the problem. The bolt grounds out and can't provide enough clamping force. Either way, I ground the end off of my #7 bolt (1/16") and I'm using the MLS gasket with all new bolts. That should take care of it.

Koolade, you can pull the #7 bolt right out by pulling off the valve cover. I would loosen and re-torque all of the bolts in the proper sequence though. That may take care of the leak and it may not...just have to find out.


Corbin
'95 ESI-T
HRC + FMIC
http://members.nbci.com/cbehnken/

hell, that would be butta if i could pop the valve cover, take the bolt out shorten it and tighten it back in to fix my leak.

Chris Dishmon

"Fillet Mignon?!?!?! How about a big slab of tube steak for the pretty lady."

chrisdishmon@hotmail.com
http://klipzracer.homestead.com/index.html

If hes losing oil there would he be loosing compression too?

yuppers

Chris Dishmon

"Fillet Mignon?!?!?! How about a big slab of tube steak for the pretty lady."

chrisdishmon@hotmail.com
http://klipzracer.homestead.com/index.html

my leak isn't bad, the car'd never overheated because of it, it looses little to no oil( <1/2quart in 3k miles). and it's been that way since I bought it(75k-95k) but there is dried oil on the rear of the motor on the firewall side, and the bottom of the motor is "wet".

so you think I can replace that one bolt, and just re-torque the others in the right pattern?? could I make it worse by doing so??
__________________________
...just my $.02
95 GS

Corbin
'95 ESI-T
HRC + FMIC
http://members.nbci.com/cbehnken/

...I reused mine.

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology: The Only Replacement for Displacement"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"