yeah I know there was a similar post already but this is a little different so far what is going to be done to the engine is:
timing belt
pulleys
tensioner
water pump
oil pump
Rods/Pistons
Clutch
new gaskets
Rod Bearings/main

ok I've never rebuilt and engine b4 so I may seem a little stupid here, I just wanna make sure I'm doing things right. :P

I got 100k on the engine I'm wonder what other work I should do to it? Should I get a valve job so the valves can be reseated? Should I port and polish the head? Port and polish the intake manifold? I heard that I shouldn't port the intake size cuz the roughness helps atomize the fuel, is this true?

I got these little thick rubber circle gasket things in my gasket kit. What are those for? There's also this green thing that looks like a rubber band. Those wouldn't happen to be for the cams would they? I still haven't take the head apart and I don't really want either :P

Another question is what kinda sealer should I use for the oil pump? I heard your suppose to use this special gasket sealer, some anaerobic stuff. I was lookin at a permatex anaerobic gasket maker today at the autostore, costs 13 bux for tube! Is that the right stuff, it dooesn't say anything about oil pumps though.

How do I put that crank timing belt pulley back on? It was a bitch to take off it looks like it'll be even bitchier putting it back on.

How do I take the crank off? just unbolt all those bolts that hold the bearings, but how do I get the sides off? Or can I put the main bearings in without taking the crank out?

I have one of those cylinder hones with a stone. How do I use it? haha, I've never used one b4, just stick it on a drill and run it inside the cylinder wall?

In the book they tell you to use something called a reamer so you can take all that crude off the section where the piston doesn't slide on? I've never seen this thing do I really need it or will the hone be enough?

Also the tranny, if I were to install a phantom grip is possible to replace the syncros in the tranny? You gotta take the tranny apart to get to the diff right? Haha as you have guessed i don't know much about trannies either.

haha man whenever I post something I wind up writing too much O_0

I wont be much help on the rebuild but on the porting, yes its okay to port your intake, but NEVER polish it, they should leave it rough like you said to help with the fuel atomization. The exhaust manifold (well your turbo anyways so this wont apply) but you should polish the exhaust to a mirror finish if possible.

As far as the honing tool, I wouldnt do it, I would just have a shop bore out the walls, IMO i would go with .020 over or up to .060 over.
With tolerances the way they are today your honing job has to be perfect..

hades send me a pm i can set u up witha kit that will take care of all your parts,

right now i have a kit like howells bottom end for 25$ cheaper..

as far as the Honing BORE the BLOCK unless u want to repeat this engine rebuilding process in the future?

as far as those gaskets those i think are the spark plug well o-rings...

as far as seperating the block u have to remove the block and remove all the main bolts, and rods, then it will split apart not very easy...

and u need to have a machine shop check your tollerances on the crank journals, and have them bore the block .020 or more depending on your situation..

u will heatthe crank pulley in the oven for a good while or so, then it should slip on pretty easy...

Bill

Hades can i come over and help?
sounds like you are havin a blast over there.
later
"Z"

>
>I got 100k on the engine I'm wonder what other work I should
>do to it? Should I get a valve job so the valves can be
>reseated? Should I port and polish the head? Port and polish
>the intake manifold? I heard that I shouldn't port the
>intake size cuz the roughness helps atomize the fuel, is this
>true?

Def have the motor bored out at least .020 over. This will take care of any out of round or irregular cylinder walls. Honing alone may not be enough. I have never really heard of a rough intanke atomizing fuel better than a smoothe one. Usually its the other way around. At a bare minimum, have the head cleaned, and a nice valve grind job done on the valves and the vavle seats, to assure a nice tight seal.
>
>I got these little thick rubber circle gasket things in my
>gasket kit. What are those for? There's also this green
>thing that looks like a rubber band. Those wouldn't happen to
>be for the cams would they? I still haven't take the head
>apart and I don't really want either :P

I dont know what those are for either :wary I couldnt find what they were for. The cam seals will be around the same size as the valvcover spark plug well seals, and the cam seals will have a spring inside the seal's inner lip.
>
>Another question is what kinda sealer should I use for the oil
>pump? I heard your suppose to use this special gasket sealer,
>some anaerobic stuff. I was lookin at a permatex anaerobic
>gasket maker today at the autostore, costs 13 bux for tube!
>Is that the right stuff, it dooesn't say anything about oil
>pumps though.

Blue or black RTV should work just fine on the oil pump.
>
>How do I put that crank timing belt pulley back on? It was a
>bitch to take off it looks like it'll be even bitchier putting
>it back on.

We were able to LIGHTLY hammer it on a little bit with a rubber mallet, then took a big ass socket that the longer crank bolt fit though, and then used an impact wrench to put it on. The outside of the socket touches the crank gear pully and pushes it on, if that makes sense. You MUST use at lest a 1" longer crank bolt over stock when doing this, as you need it to be long enough to grab the crank threads. We were not able to get enough bolt lenght with the socket on top of the crank pulley when the pulley was just sitting on the edge of the crank. Thats why we needed to hammer it on a little way. Of course, if you can get a 2" longer crank bolt, that will work without any hammering.
>
>How do I take the crank off? just unbolt all those bolts that
>hold the bearings, but how do I get the sides off? Or can I
>put the main bearings in without taking the crank out?

Unbolt the bedplate bolts, remove the bearings, main oil seals, oil pump and anything in the way of the crank. After thats all out, you are set to pull it out.
>
>>In the book they tell you to use something called a reamer so
>you can take all that crude off the section where the piston
>doesn't slide on? I've never seen this thing do I really need
>it or will the hone be enough?

If you are boring out your block, its not needed. For just a hone job, i found that soem 3M scotch brite pads take off the carbon at the tip of the cylinders very nicely, without scratching. Its necc to do this so when putting in the pistons, the carbon will not catch on the rings.
>
>Also the tranny, if I were to install a phantom grip is
>possible to replace the syncros in the tranny? You gotta take
>the tranny apart to get to the diff right? Haha as you have
>guessed i don't know much about trannies either.

Yes, you must take apart the tranny to put in a Diff. Never done that yet, but i hear putting it back together is a PITA.
>
>

this is how porting and polishing is done. by most reputable shops http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm

OoOo nice link for the porting! Maybe I'll give it a shot, I got a die grinder and a compressor :)

so if I oversize the cylinder wall I can still use the pistons I bought? They're standard sized.

>
>so if I oversize the cylinder wall I can still use the pistons
>I bought? They're standard sized.


Unfortunately, no. If you bore out the motor, you will need oversize pistons/rings, like .020, .040, or .060 over. The machine shop that bores the motor will need the pistons, so they can get the piston to wall clearance set properly..

>I got these little thick rubber circle gasket things in my
>gasket kit. What are those for? There's also this green
>thing that looks like a rubber band. Those wouldn't happen to
>be for the cams would they? I still haven't take the head
>apart and I don't really want either :P

in the gasket set i got from howell, it was pretty drunk. the cam seals are black and they have little metal rings inside of them. i only got one of these from howell so i just said "screw it i'll use the old ones." the green rubber band thing is actually for the cam posistion sensor. who knew? i didn't until i got a head gasket and that little green thing came with it and i soon realized what it went to. there's a rubber gasket thingy for the water pipe that always rusts (the part that goes into the water pump) you'll need to put some motor oil on the gasket so you can actually squeeze it into the water pump. otherwise, it's almost impossible.

the head isn't even that bad to take apart. you just need to get the POSPITA black plastic thing off. you don't even need to take the cam gears (i skipped it and just took off all of the cam bearings) off if you're careful. just don't turn anything too much. once the cams come off it's wicked easy to unbolt the head. don't forget the braket that supports the intake manifold on the back and the fuel line.

I'm thinking of rebuilding soon when I get the turbo ...I'm scared to.
Does anyone live in Mass or near Nh anywere that would be willing to help out...I have a nice shop heated and clean.

I was told you should bore it .20 over just to reduce friction, and can still stay with stock size pistons with oversized rings?

whew well I got the bedplate off after a lot of prying. I was holding my self up with the crowbar and the damn thing still wouldn't come off! Yeesh I started pushing up and down on it and I heard a bi CRACK and there it went. The block is squeaky clean no scratches at all :) the crank seems to have some scratches no big ones, they're all in the same part of the crank too is this normal? O_0 when I move my finger nail over the crank there's always this scratch in the same place on each of the rod bearing parts.

NE1 notice this? Its not visible but you can feel it.

and man having an impact gun is a must if your rebuilding an engine, its handy for all sorts of thing like pulling pulleys and breakin bolts loose from the block and stuff.

Yeah I would say bore the block. I did a rebuild about 10k miles ago, or 2 months ago. And I am burning oil some how. I have nothing but confedince in my cousin's engine building capabilities, so I think it has to do with tolorances. I am going to look at this over the weekend, the rain has slowed everything down for me. My motor was a cheap mans rebuild, I didn't have any money to play with around christmas time this last year. But I think with the tool power you have and the ability to notice things that are right and wrong you should be okay.

If no one answerd your question refuring to the round rubber thing and the rubber band looking thing: The 4 circle things are for the spark plug gaskets that go on the bottom side of the valve covor. The rubber band looking thing is for the cam position sensor inside the valve covor... Hope those were the things you were refuring to! hehe

sorry this is off topic, but i got a sebring muffler and thought it was the same as the gst, so i took it to the muffler shop and they said it couldnt be done, it was too long. How did yours get on?

intake, 2.5 exhaust w/magnaflow, pacesetter header, msd wires, ngk plugs, port and polish throttlebody, front and rear strut bars, 1.5' tenzo springs, 17" primax rims, kuhmo tires, leather interior, gsx sideskirts, BM shortshifter, GM fluid in trans...