OK, who has it and who likes it, i herd some bad stuff but has anyone ever had anything good to say bout it?

I don't have it, but I know its a piece of junk because I've seen it in action on a plate load tester. Honestly, you would be better off buying an oem clutch than a CFDF.

I second Matt on the fact that the CF clutch sucks for our car. Do not buy it.....

I have one. It will only hold up to about 230whp. After that point it starts to slip. Mr-Blunt had one as well. He had it before he turbo charged his car and still managed to wear it out. He took it apart after replacing it and man there was nothing left of it. Clutchmaster stage 4 is the best. This is what i hope to get after my CF gose bad.

i have it....have 30k miles on it of very rough driving...and i love the shit out of it...it has never slipped or shown any signs of weakness...the key with this clutch is the break in period...if its not followed it WILL fail fast....if properly broken in it will work great...

how long did u guys break them in for, its either , its weither CF or the south bend clutch rally one which is stock basicly,

Go with the south bend I was told they kick ass. BTW everytime I try to pull up that site it does not load wtf could you post a link to the eclipse section may load for me that way thanks :thumbsup

In another thread, I commented on various reviews I've read about the SPEC clutches performing admirably, no matter the platform of car.

However, in regards to the CF clutches, I've heard the exact opposite, again universally. People are generally really displeased about the performance of this clutch and its general inability to hold much in the way of horsepower, and furthermore, it's overall lack of durability longevity. Both of the above attributes are key to me.

But, the above is all hearsay. I can say this though; there are few people around that will research a plus-$100 buy more than I will.

If your gonna stay NA then I say go for it. I have one right now, it's been in for a lil over a year now and it never flinched before I put the Stage 2 on. Now when I launch hard and then grab second it'll slip a little bit. So as long as you don;t plan on boosting it'll hold as long as you break it in right. I drove mine very softly for about the first 500 miles to make sure it broke in right.

heres the deal and im working with various people on clutches right now working on getting my custom kit out (delays suck!!!)

CF - suck with a capital S

why?
Because centerforce is just usging a stock weighted(clamp load) pressure plate and then a organic(stock type material) center disk (friction disk) they take a new disk cut notches into the facing of it to create a cool -_-_- design... then charge u twice as much for the product as a stock clutch....
Organic is made to be slipped liek stock clutches and keep on ticking, BUT when they cut notchesinto it cuts the life span in half, not to meantion the grip in half, so u would be better off grabbing a pt cruisar clutch and be happy skippy with more clamp load and a stock plate that slips well,

now kevlar and ceramic are a different story....

and we'll jsut say clutch masters owners are millionairs right now and leave it at that...


so why pay for something not as good as stock ?

if u want cheap get a PT Cruisar 2000-2001 modular clutch they are pretty cheap and better then stock dsm/neon ones...

if i can be of assistance anymore on the subject let me know...

just bought a South bend clutch, TZ series, more than ill ever need!, i love them over there, the guy eddie is really smart when it comes to clutches! highly recomend, i told him were i got the number and they were excited to see that there gettin all this plubicicty, only paid 425 for a clutch that has 100 percent holding compacity!

100percent holding capacity?

i would hope a new clutch has that other wise ud be buying used =P

if its +100% or 200% holding capacity thats cool man...

did u get a ceramic disk/kevlar/organic/or fibertuff ?

what clamp load?