I got the SAFC, and its gonna be a while until I can get enough spare cash to get an a/f gauge and an EGT (bills,bills,bills :o) But I want to lean out my car a little bit so I didnt waste all that money on the SAFC. So what are some generally safe settings that I can run? I cant monitor the a/f or EGT obviously, so im looking for a settings thats not borderline crazy and wont blow me up. Thanks guys.

NeoVB
1997 Eclipse GS

No one will tell you what to set it on, its dangerous to tell you that, it will be totally different for each car. I sure as hell wouldnt want you to blow your engine cause I told you the wrong values for your car.

Believe it or not, but I've had the S-afc for a couple months now and just opened my throttle body last week up to 55mm and now I dont need the S-afc at all.
If I set it to -1 or -2 now I get a CEL for running lean and hit fuel cut at like 5000rpms so all my settings are back to 0 and I did the blue wire mod to measure voltage from the o2 and at WOT Im right at .85 to .83

I wouldnt touch the settings till you get on a dyno with wideband o2 sensor hooked up, or at the least air/fuel guage (digital) and an EGT guage

don't. that's all i can say. in the meantime, play with all of the neat graphs and displays, that's what i did. you should wait to tune it until you get a EGT and A/F gauge and can get time on a dyno, or time on a 4 lane highway at 3:30 on a sunday morning. both work well, but the later can hazardous to your police record. anyways, i'm done now.

I would lean it out -5% on the top end at wide open throttle (WOT), from 4500 RPMs to red line, and NO MORE THAN THAT until you get an EGT gauge and/or a datalogger and/or gt it on a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor.

I would not bother adjusting at part throttle. Why bohter? If you need more power at part throttle, put your foot down more :) Set your low throttle point to 50% throttle, your high throttle point to 85%, that seems to work well for me.

Our cars run too rich at WOT, so leaning out 5% on the top will not be dangerous for your car despite the variations between one car and another. That 5% should get you closer to the approxomately 12.7 to 1 air fuel ratio that is ideal, and it should fool the car's computer into giving you an extra degree of timing advance too (the computer sees less of an air signal, so it allows the timing to advance a little bit more, I've datalogged it, it does happen, I am set to -10% and I get 3 degrees more advance over stock, from 20 to 23 degrees)