So I have this ongoing problem of having this soft clutch. I replaced the piston in the master cylinder and it still feels soft and not fully engaging. I re-bled the sytem for the 5th time and saw a peculiar problem. After I bled it I had my friend pump the clutch a few times and I saw bubbles in the second resivior that sits atop the master cylinder. The air is trapped in there. The clutch engagement is damn near the floor. I rebled it for the 7th and saw more bubbles come out. Somewhere there is air getting through my sytem, I just don't know where. I replaced the piston inside the master cylinder and it still does it. Could air be getting through one of the seals? THanks again
Alvin



96 RST

Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar/ GSX Dual Piston Calipers, X-drilled/ slotted rotors

Make sure there are no leaks in the lines. Give special attention to the joints - where the connecting screws are. Make sure that there is nothing leaking from those connections.


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Field SFC Hyper-R : Gude cams : Jeep TB : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : GST catback
suspention___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob : Xplod 222
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns : Caspers o2 simulator(rear)
incomming___Bosal header(maybe), 14b turbosystem(eventually)
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

I dont know if you are the guy I told before.....but check the slave cylinder. It is located right next to the front motor mount. A new master cylinder will pop the seals on a worn out slave cylinder. That will in turn cause the air to get into the system, and it will cause you to lose fluid.

You could have a pin size hole in one of teh rubber lines. The SS line from RRE is only $20 and it's a great upgrade. But you could be getting air in at one of the joints.

1997 Eclipse RS (in winter slumber for head gasket repair and other projects)

He who knows men is clever; He who knows himself has insight.
He who conquers men has force; He who conquers himself is truly strong.
-Lao Tzu

Injen CAI, AFX 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Apexi S-AFC

I'll check the lines once again and tighten em up. The line that goes to the slave is a hardline so there wouldn't be a leak around there. I'm not losing any fluid tho so I guess the leak is so small it's letting air but not fluid get through. Thanks
Alvin

96 RST

Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar/ GSX Dual Piston Calipers, X-drilled/ slotted rotors

I always recommend changing the salve cylinder at the same time. On my laser (which has almost the same exact hydraulic clutch system as our 2GNT's), I had to change both before, the clutch did sugnificantly firm up. Remember, it takes both ends of the system for there to be fluid integrity. You may want to pull back the rubber cover on the pushrod of the slave cylinder to see if there's any fluid in there. If there is, you'll know it's leaking badly.