I just replaced the head gasket on my 95 eclipse RS 2.0 nonturbo. The head was warped and was milled .017 to flatten it. Now it will not start. Checking the plugs I have spark but they are very wet with gas and also the cylinder when I pull the plugs. Would the time being off cause this? I replaced the belt with the crank at 1/2 tooth BTDC and the cams dead on. Would another issue need reset or adjusted?

Thanks
geronamo@hotmail.com

nevermind, I re-read your post

It's hard to tell just from that description of not starting. What type of noise does it make when you attempt to turn it over? Does it try to turn over but not start? Is there any combustion at all? Are you giving it any gas when you try? Also what effect does pressing the gas pedal in have on starting? Try to start fresh and pull all the plugs out for a while to let the gas evaporate.

Also make sure you check the compression on all the cylinders. There may be something caught in one or more of the valves causing them to not shut all the way.

Best of luck,
Eric

When I crank the engine after drying the plugs and cylinders out, it will fire one or two cylinder and then just crank without firing again. When I recheck the plugs they are saturated with gas. I have not touched the gas pedal at all and have tried with depressing the pedal. Either way results in a saturated plugs. I have not checked compression.

Thanks,

Dave

sounds like you bent your valves. does it try to start and then if you give it gas it will try to fire up but missfire and backfire in the intake? what position were the piston in when you put the head on. its best to have them in the middle of the cylinder or atleast a 1" below TDC. then when you put your cams and cam gears on and the valves open, they don't hit the pistons. also you need to align the cam gears first and then move the crank gear to 1/2 BTDC.

The crank was at 3 teeth before TDC when I place the head on and bolted it down. It does not backfire into the manifold at all. Would the head being shaved .017 throw out the timing? The guy that milled the head said t might have.

it shouldn't throw it off by having it milled. the auto tensioner should take up any slack that would be caused by that.

If it floods, take out he plugs and plug wires, pull your ASD relay, and crank it over a few times to blow the gas out. Reinstall your plugs and wires, then crank it over while giving it a little throttle. See if it starts. if it does, see if it will idle. Don't let it die or it might flood again. Sometimes these things are hard to start after the ECU has been unplugged...

Check to make sure your cams are not out of phase. I had the exact same problem, and ended up that the intake cam was out of phase. The dowels on the cams should be exactly opposite.

I bet the farm on that ;)
_________________
Vinnie Lima
vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 3 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

Re-check your timing. Line up the arrow on the crank pulley sproket gear with the arrow on the block. That is TDC. At the same time, your two marks on the cam gears should be like this - - . Sounds like your timing is off, or double check all wiring harnesses and sensor connections.

yeah once everything is lined up and you have the belt on turn the crank 2 rotations and make sure it still lines up.

what about the rotation. does not the piston travel to tdc twice in one rotation? when you placed the head on was the #1 at tdc on the compression stroke? cause if not woulnt that cause the same effects. the reason for the first firing would be the residual fumes igniting. who know;s i did that on my 300z and it did the same thing. but the head wasnt milled.

>what about the rotation. does not the piston travel to tdc
>twice in one rotation?

No, the #1 piston (and #4) are at TDC every crank revolution. When the two arrows are in line, that is TDC. BUT the cam gear marks will NOT line up every revolution, but every 2 revolutions, as when the marks are in line, that means cylinder 1 is at TDC of the compression stroke (all valves closed).

when you placed the head on was the
>#1 at tdc on the compression stroke? cause if not woulnt
>that cause the same effects. the reason for the first firing
>would be the residual fumes igniting. who know;s i did that
>on my 300z and it did the same thing. but the head wasnt
>milled.

Thats really not possible since when the two cam marks are in line, then that means they are now timing right with the crank. This makes all the valves and pistons at proper timing. EVery one crank revoluton will not turn the cams one revolution. It will turn them half revolution, this is why you need to rotate the crank 2 revs befor everything lines up.

is it possible to have the cams reversed(intake cam on exhaustsise)?

No....unless you dont hook up the cam position sensor pickup....

right?

I still bet my farm that - if all else fails - that the cams are out of phase. I had the *exact* same problem. Drove me crazy.
_________________
Vinnie Lima
vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

It IS possible to have the cams 180* out of phase, and have -ZERO- compression. Of Course, they are 180* off, no compression, it'll never start, but that is pretty noticeable (no compression).

Check it...

>It IS possible to have the cams 180* out of phase, and have
>-ZERO- compression. Of Course, they are 180* off, no
>compression, it'll never start, but that is pretty
>noticeable (no compression).
>
>Check it...

Yeah, it def is possible to get them out of phase, but that would mean you almost have to try to do that. I mean, its not rocket science. You line up the two cam notches, and then line up the crank notches, and you are set. They just dont get out of line by themselves..hehe.. My theroy is if you cant do that, then you shouldnt be workin on your motor ;) You cant place the #1 piston at TCD on the compression stroke by itself, that is set by the cam position. Whenever the arrows line up on the block that means its at TDC. Line up the cam gear notches on both cams, then that means all the valves are closed (compression stroke) on the #1 piston. I guess I just dont see how easily people can not line em up

The Cams and the crank are all in line. The time is right on with the block time mark and the cams set on mark. You had said earlier to unplug the ASD relay and crank the engine to blow out any residual gas. What is the ASD relay. I do not find it in the Hayes manual I am using.

The head being milled can throw off the timing but if I remember correctly Skrilla was milled down like .040 or some crazy number and was only off by one tooth.






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Yeah, it def is possible to get them out of phase, but that would mean you almost have to try to do that. I mean, its not rocket science. You line up the two cam notches, and then line up the crank notches, and you are set. They just dont get out of line by themselves..hehe.. My theroy is if you cant do that, then you shouldnt be workin on your motor

Trust me....after you work a lot on these engines and have replaced head gaskets more than you care to know....you start forgetting the simple things ;)

_________________
Vinnie Lima
vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

This is a dumb question...but are the plug wires crossed? Thats what it sounds like to me. I had same problem with my 89 Probe GT. Double check that. ALSO..make sure your crank angle sensor is not loose or unhooked.

Thanks DarkOne. After finding the ASD and uplugging it, cranking it, it statred to fire and then plugged the ASD back in and it started fine. Thanks for the help, I would have never found this solution. What is the ASD Relay and what does it control?

Thanks Again!!