My clutch fluid was leaking on the foot rest and so I got the piston rebuild kit. I replaced the piston and bled the system - pretty straight forward. I checked for leaks - no leaks. Now my clutch is really soft, it engages an inch from the floor and disengages like a switch. There is about an inch from engagement to disengagement. I'm not getting enough pressure in the system. I rebled the system and still the same. Please help

Alvin

96 RST

Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar/ GSX Dual Piston Calipers, X-drilled/ slotted rotors

well maybe it needs to break in. becuase thats how a new clutch feels. I should know, i just drove on my new clutch today. give it 500 miles and see if the pressure comes back.

I didn't put in a new clutch, I just rebuilt the master cylinder.
Alvin

96 RST

Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar/ GSX Dual Piston Calipers, X-drilled/ slotted rotors

i know. i'm just saying give it a week or two and see if the pressure comes back.

You can always adjust the redal engagement at the master cylnder, by the pedal. There should be a pushrod that mates with your pedal lever. I believe it's screw-in. On my 1g, there's a clevis pin that needs to be removed first. Check it out.

If your not happy with the pedal pressure in a few days, you may want to rebleed the system and perhaps even use a higher DOT rated fluid. (4 vs. 3)

Bleed the clutch again. When i had done the restrictor mod, i had to bleed the clutch a few times to get it back to normal. Have a helper pump up the clutch pedal, and then have the helper push down on it like an inch or so. Crack open the bleed screw, and let the clutch pedal come almost all the way down, BUT NOT all the way, then close off the bleed screw. Repeat this many times. At least 10-15 times. If you let the pedal come all the way down, and if you leave the bleed screw opened, air may come back into the lines if the helper lets off the pedal too soon before the bleeder is fully tightened, thats why do like i have mentioned. Worked great for me. Its the same way as bleeding the brakes.

This is what i did:
check everywhere to make sure you dont have any leaks. After i made sure that there were no leaks, i bled the brakes using the kaptains instructions (thanks kaptain!)<http://forums.2gnt.com/dcforum/DCForumID25/6576.html> I did that 3 times, then while the car was not running i pumped the clutch for a couple of mins. It eventually stiffend up. The first two days after i fixed my problem, the clutch would be stiff through the first shift, but going on the next shift it seems like it would engage lower. Then i figured i would pump the clutch so it stiffened up but when i finished a shift i wouldnt let it out all the way, still holding it from its most extended position. Im not sure if that had an effect on anything or not, but it seems to be working good now. That is just how i fixed my prob. Not sure if it will help you or not, but i hope it will. Take is easy buddy :thumbsup

Cool..thanks for the help guys. I will re-bleed the clutch again, this time pumping the clutch and doing it over 5x. I'm getting some SS lines for my brakes so I might as well get a SS clutch line as well too. The thing is tho...what would be the difference between the hard line and the SS line? thanks for all the great info guys.
Alvin

96 RST

Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar/ GSX Dual Piston Calipers, X-drilled/ slotted rotors

Im guessing the only difference is that the ss lines would be able to flex and be more mobile as opposed to the hard lines, that snap when bent too far. Hope that crap helped you with the clutch. Good luck