I've been having this problem for about a month now... My car would run normally,boosting nicely.. and then all of a sudden, it would just die! I'd try to start it and it would start for a second and then die out. Fifteen or so minutes later, it would eventually start and drive normally. It happened in the middle of the freeway twice, and just driving around town three times... it would hesitate for a couple of seconds and then the engine would just turn off... I changed the fuel filter, fpr, fuel pump, ignition coil, and spark plugs. I tested the fuel pressure while the car was down and fuel is in the engine... it only seems to happen too when the car has been driven and the engine is on the warmer side... any suggestions? I was so close to just trading this bugger in for another car... help?

Soemtimes my car tends to not want to start, the fuel pump won't start usually. I'm sure it's something small, probably electrical, if you've changed the entire fuel system like you've said. Try adding a ground wire from the neg terminal to the body (I'm just shooting ideas). Or, replace your coilpack/wires, although that's not likely. I'd shoot for either coilpack, add a ground, or replace your ECU (they do that sometimes if they're going out).



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

You can always check with someone else with your particular ecu, find them at a junkyard or possibly someone who is using Howell's ECU, even though i think most of themt raded it in for the core charge.



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

are you using premium gas (91,92 or 93 octane) ? Ive heard bad things about 420As turbo-ed running low grade gas.

Before you sell the car I'll take the turbo kit ;)

yeah.. i'm using premium gas... cali gas tho so we're stuck with "91" octane. I've suspected the ecu going bad and luckily for me, there's junk yard that has all mitsus two blocks from where i live. Has our ecu's had a history of going bad under close to extreme heat conditions? I'll try that i guess and hopefully i'll get somewhere...

Not any worse than any other car, but anything's possible under the wrong conditions. Make sure you get an ECU that's correspondant with your year, otherwise it won't fit / run.



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

Possibly you are losing power to the fuel pump while driving. Lose power to the fuel pump(s) and the engine will just cough and die. There is a fuel pump relay. If that is jumping open or a wire is jumping loose, then that could do it. Intermittent problems are nearly impossible to solve.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

thanks for replying corbin... i thought about that and i do hear the fuel pump kinda getting quieter sometimes (i have the noisy walbro) so i changed the fuel pump relay. And it still bonked. The last time it died, we checked the fuel pressure and there was fuel pressure at the rail, although kinda low at 40 psi. Any other sensors you suggest to check.. also, i have a code scanner here and every time the car dies i plug it in and it keeps on reading "pass no error code detected" (then i think: of course theres an error, the car's dead for pete's sake) Would an OBD II scanner let me know if the crank angle or cam angle sensors go bad?... thanks again for replying, i'd appreciate any help getting through this... the good thing about all this is now i know how to change a fuel pump, fuel filter, fpr, coil, and fuel pump relay... and i have more spare parts...

Be sure to check your battery cables and that they are nice and tight. Our cables like to come loose for some stupid reason..if it does, then the car will die...

I odnt know if this is similar to your situation or not, but if you are using SAFC try using 06/06 in/out or 07/07 in/out for your map sensor settings. I had mine on 01/01 and my car would run fine but suddenly (usually on downshift) it would shut off or misfire.

Also check your map sensor. Are you getting any CEL?

_________________
Vinnie Lima
vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

Why were you running your S-AFC with an 01/01 setting? It should be 06/06 or 07/07.