I'm gonna be buyin my Howell rebuild kit in like a week or two and i want to know if there is anything im forgeting. along with the kit im gettin a fuel pump, injectors, Port/Polish, honing, headers, and underdrive pulley. oh yeah....and the final drive mod:) i want 13s or 14s by spring/summer so any help is appriciated

sounds like fun...good luck making those times. it wont be easy.

A good set of drag grind cams wouldn't hurt, and don't forget to upgrade to PT lifters and rockers while you are in there. I didn't notice that you had a larger throttle body in your sig, you will need it if you are trying for those times.

btw. if you are automatic, you are going to have to deal with that, or it will be the weak link that will hold you back. if you are making good power with your engine you will need (at the very least) a valve body recalibration and a higher stall torque converter, or an all out swap to a manual trans.

just my .02¢

Yeah, the ATX will hold you back from pulling those times.You'll need:

+ High stall-speed torque converter (to get off the line)
+ Tranny oil cooler (so the tranny won't fry)
+ Valve-body recalibration (faster shifts)
+ Dodge Stratus transfer gears (faster acceleration)
+ A604 rebuild kit with seals/clutches/etc (keep the tranny from breaking)

Good Luck!

Yep, you'll definately want a bigger TB and an intake w/bigger air filter. Drag cams will help - and some adjustable cam gears. A fuel controller(like the SAFC) with an AF and EGT gauge to tweak your fuel curve will probably help as well.


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Field SFC Hyper-R : Gude cams : Jeep TB : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : GST catback
suspention___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob - no sub amp(damnit!)
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns : Caspers o2 simulator(rear)
incomming___Bosal header
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

thanks alot....i already have a one of a kind intake idea goin down and im gettin tuffy to do a 2.5 straight pipe job for me(connections are good:-D ) heres a question tho....is it better to buy a new TB or get it bored? and the Stratus gear is the final drive mod...found it for like 90 bucks. but pleez keep the ideas coming....im tryin to prove all the rules about our AT's wrong. its what i call the 'urban legend' of 2g's:)

I like my 60mm Jeep TB. Check my sig for the writeup. You can only get the stock ones bored to 57mm. Alot of people have them bored to 55mm. Howell and ARD offer boring services - I think they also sell bored TBs whole too.


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Field SFC Hyper-R : Gude cams : Jeep TB : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : GST catback
suspention___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob - no sub amp(damnit!)
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns : Caspers o2 simulator(rear)
incomming___Bosal header
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

if u have cash go buy a forward motion manual over drive tranny its an auto casing but witha manual gear set meaning u have to shift every gear but without a clutch it uses a high stall converter and holds 750+hp on the phatridz car being abused at the track,

u could bore your cylinders out to 140 and make your car a 2.2 ,

bigger valves, silicon coat your pistons, nitrous , itb(individual throttle bodies) a different intake setup, like a custom hogan one witha 65mm ford throttle body its endless...

Auto trannies are not an urban legend for th 2g, they are truly really slow and it takes a ton of work to make it faster. 13's I can't see happening on an NA with auto. I'd swap it personally, but good luck with all that.

Ignition amp with timing retard in acse you need if to prevent detonation.

An auto trans built for the track is not as streetable as a 5-speed in my opinion. I would suggest the swap for a serious all motor build.

One who displays himself does not shine.
One who justifies himself has no glory.
One who boasts of his own ability has no merit.
One who parades his own success will not endure.
- Lao Tzu

to be honest with ya....i just want a descent time cuz im gonna join the SCCA and do road courses. i know i know, do a turbo, but im goin out after what it seems like no one has tried. or has done a tranny swap tryin.

I am sooo with you here.
We know that to have a fast car, it is easier to BUY a fast car. but that is against the point RIGHT?
you like YOUR car, and you want to see how far you can push the auto trans, and watch some manual trans guys jaws drop.

Do it dood!

hopefully I'll beat ya to it. not very likely though....you've got a head start on me.



peace

hmm well autox solo2 is fine for automatic, I raced my automatic MR2 one time and it did great, just kept in 2nd and redlined the gears bwahaha. For roadcourse though i don't recommend it do you do a lotta downshift brakes? Road racing it's handy to have double clutching and heel to toe.

hey thanks man....at least someone sees what im doin. i just hope i open up a new can of whoop @$$ in the AT world. and i hope i dont offend anyone, but if i do im sorry....take your v8 shelby cobra and shut it up your ass. your next cuz stock i can hang with a GT horsey boy. and anyone can buy a $40g car and be fast...easy way out. sorry, thats my 2cents...all i wanted was a lil help

With 12.5:1 and drag cams you are going to be making all your power up in the top end where the stock A/T ECU is going to shift at 6500 and you are going to have the most power from 5000 to 8000+ rpm. Get a M/T to take advantage of the power band or get a built A/T and a Standalone ECU so you can rev higher. Either way is a lot of $$$$. Good luck, I was THIS close to having the 2.2L 12.5:1 built block on order when I found out about my wife having the baby, I can't wait to see someone do it with the eclipse so we can see what kind of times can be pulled N/A.



________________________________________________________________________________________
Car Sold


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

im gonna do this, but im leavin it 2.0 and just honin and port and polish...no boring. but for the top end stuff....im gonna get something to get rid of the rev limiter so i can shift at like 7200-7500. if anyone knows a shift kit for ATs im lookin for one of those too...thanks again

Which Rebuild Kit are you ordering? I was planning on doing this sometime in the next few months. Just not sure which one i want first. Or is it better to do both at the same time?

im gettin the Howell Bottom End Kit. dont get the block kits from them...the blocks arent even cleaned, they just paint em rusty or not. but if you wanna go in on one we can see about a group buy.

I wasn't planning to get the block kit. I figured something maybe up with it.

"and i hope i dont offend anyone, but if i do im sorry....take your v8 shelby cobra and shut it up your ass. your next cuz stock i can hang with a GT horsey boy. and anyone can buy a $40g car and be fast...easy way out."

Shut my V8 Shelby Cobra up my ass? Right...

You can hang with a GT stock? With your auto? No, I really don't think so man, because I'm pretty sure that your auto 2gnt is running somewhere in the upper 16's, low 17's, while the slowest 99+ auto GT to date I've seen has run a 15.4, the average is about a 14.9. The stick isn't even a question as to who wins.

I'm not bashing you, man, but that comment was way out of line. I gave you my advice which was to swap the NA tranny, as far as I know there is no way to get rid of the rev limiter without the manual tranny or maybe Howell's computer that they don't make for your OBD I '95. I didn't buy a $40K car, chief, I bought a frame. Feel free to buy a suspension and then build your car from the ground up and then tell me it was the easy way out. Yea, I picked a V8, it makes more sense, and I love the Cobra's style and sound. My father and I built the motor, installed the transmission, built the suspension onto the frame, and we haven't even started body or interior work.

As you can see, I've been more than civil which is more than you can say. Anyway, I don't know of any shift kits they make for the auto but you can definitely do the final drive mod and pick up a little oomph and look into high stall torque converters and maybe do some custom work to the inside of that tranny with the clutches and what not that may speed up your shifts. Also look into if they make anything to cut down the mass, i.e. lighter driveshaft. You lose a lot of horsepower to the auto tranny because there are so many places for your kinetic energy to be lost between clutches and what not compared to the manual. Like I said before, GOOD LUCK!

that was a respectful responce z87

ive gota 64 elky the torque of a built 400hp pus na car is just so much fun to drive to work while your import is broken i chave fun dropping the hammer cruising around under50mph and kicking it sideways on command its a blast

i praise people that take the time to build a car from the ground up but once u do it the thing lasts forever and looks hella sweet if u do custom paint and cometic work along the way...

keep up the good work man maybe someday ill get my car back together too :rolleyes

You can find a (shift) kit here
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=2489

I can't find the post that someone (I think maybe corbin or mcgyver) did, but he thought that it was ok and probably worth his time.

here it is
http://forums.2gnt.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=6455&forum=DCForumID13

I have yet to install mine though(tooo cold).

>im gettin the Howell Bottom End Kit. dont get the block kits
>from them...the blocks arent even cleaned, they just paint
>em rusty or not. but if you wanna go in on one we can see
>about a group buy.

Where are you getting this information from? I never heard that they weren't cleaned. Anyone want to confirm this?

ive seen like 3-4 people with the same problem freeze plugs old and not replaced the blocks are jsut painted in as is shape they aren't doing a quality job on them most likly because of how many they have to do...

i myself have not ordered one or seen the stuff in person i read the bad stuff about them on the forum here there isa huge post about it but dont remember the title...

Matt's stroker story: http://forums.2gnt.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=5836&forum=DCForumID25


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Field SFC Hyper-R : Gude cams : Jeep TB : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : GST catback
suspention___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob - no sub amp(damnit!)
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns : Caspers o2 simulator(rear)
incomming___Bosal header
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

i do apologize z87, but i do have a friend that was riding with me when i was side by side with a GT...so its tru. and i am building my car from the ground up...i just chose the clipse unibody to do it with, and an auto to top it off. and for the 10g's almost ill have put into every thing on my car i still wont be the fastest thing and i know. and the reason i just snapped is because im sick of hearing my car is slow just cuz its AT, but the truth is its the driver not the car. i did deserve that, and i hope we can be cool.
and i got my info from someone who actually put one of the howell short blocks in...the block had rust and they had oil leak problems for weeks after. thats why i suggest using your own block and honing and acid dippin it.