All show, not even a little bit of go.

I took my car to the track yesterday. I have pacesetter headers, K&N filter, AFX underdrive pulley, and arospeed muffler...
My car is an automatic. I raced with my car in low gear the whole time, gear "L"

I wanted to put my stock 14" wheels back on, but didnt have time, so I ran with my 17" wheels.

Both passes that I made, I ran an 18 flat @ 77mph. God that is fucking slow. WHY???? Is it the wheels?? Even a stock automatic should be faster then that! I've got mods!

Here's my slips:

1st run:
r/t: 1.094
60': 2.655
330: 7.654
1/8: 11.740
MPH: 60.98
1000: 15.187
1/4: 18.095
MPH: 77.02

r/t: 1.401
60': 2.650
330: 7.638
1/8: 11.713
MPH: 61.04
1000: 1549
1/4: 18.049
MPH: 77.15

Any fucking ideas, don't say go turbo, Im not.

-Nick

Was this your first trip to the track? If it was, don't worry about it. Everyone sucks their first couple of times out. Focus on your launch. The 1-1.4 RT's show ya were kinda sleeping at the light. Try different techniques of launching, sorry i don't own an auto so i can't really give you any advice on what works best. If it make ya feel better i have the worst prob of jumping to soon.
sd_eclipse<---king of "redlights"

It's automatic duuuuuuuuuude.....

Well first off, how did you launch? Hold the brake down and rev the engine till the car starts to edge a little forward. That's how you should launch an AT. Next thing, how much does your car wiegh? Got all your subs, and extra stuff inside still? That's extra wieght you won't want.


-Avenger
99 Eclipse RS
AEM CAI w/ bypass valve, Tanabe Hyper Medallion cat-back exhaust, Unorthodox UDP, Magnecore 8.5mm Plug wires, 55mm bored TB, S-AFC, Enkie Shogun 17" wheels w/ 215/40/17 BFGoodRich Scorchers (yellow), Flashy A/F gauge

Sitting around: Intake manifold for porting

On the way: OBX Cam Gears, Digital A/F guage

Why did you leave it in L1??









-AF/X underdrive crank pulley
-AEM Cold Air intake w/bypass valve
-PIAA headlight and foglight bulbs
-Clear bumper lenses
-Eibach Pro-Kits with Tokico n/a shocks
-Pilot Motorsports Front upper, Rear upper, Rear lower strut bars
-PowerSlot rotors (all four)
-Axxis Metal Master pads
-RRE rear camber kit
-Dunlop SP SPORT 8000 tires
-ECLIPSE word on dash
-Red Mitsu symbol on steering wheel
-Painted fog light bezels
-Window tint
-Magnecore wires and NGK plugs
-Purple interior lights
-Purple hose kit

When you leave it in L1, it is faster, no? And because it's auto it automatically shifts even still, right?

-Nick

Who cares if your not that fast at the track. It looks nice and oh well. If you want a fast car just get a 1g for fun and save your tranny and shit in your 2g and just make it look tight as hell. I dont know I gave up on my auto long ago. Ill just make it look good. I will buy a 1g probably next spring.


ICQ #2199879
AOL - EvuLFleA
stillk@geocites.com

EvulFlea, I really wish I was like you, and stopped putting all this money into mods a long time ago. It takes a lot of money to make an auto fast - some people say turbo it, but that's 3 grand I'm not willing to spend, especially if I blow that engine. I might one day get a 1g for less than 3 grand as a car to play around with, but no more performance mods for my 2gnt...

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom

I did the power brake, held at 2k rpm. I dont have any subs and removed even my spare tire and such.

I really think its these damn wheels, and the fact it's auto.

-Nick

LAST EDITED ON 21-Jun-01 AT 01:32 PM (PST)

LAST EDITED ON 21-Jun-01 AT 01:30 PM (PST)

ok you stated your own problem !! low gear is for going up hills or if u have a ton of weight in the car .. its not for racing .. the ecu senses the fact that you must be in second and clicks it over in a "protected mode" this "protected mode" saps all power because its trying to prevent damage to your transmission .. the tranny isnt supposed to be run like that. go back and run flat D overdrive off .. even though you ran in low why didnt u shift into second the second u hit 6000rpms ? hello ?
or your tranny is screwed . check the levels in it make sure u arent running to high or low

honestly .. do a light power break and go .. floor it click overdrive @ 70mph after the first run let the car idle with the a/c on and let the tranny cool .. i hope this helps so far the best an auto ran so far here is a 16.5 thanks to our man avenger ... im going to run at the shootout and am hoping for at least a high 16 rating

LAST EDITED ON 21-Jun-01 AT 03:31 PM (PST)

Yeah just leave it at 'D' the whole time and forget about the power brake shit. I used the technique that Oracle described in the racing forum and ran a 16.9 on a G-Tech.

Will
99 Black GS

Removed Front Plate
RRE License Plate Frame
RRE Badge
AEM sticker
Bosch Micro Edge Excel Wiper Blades
'Team 2GNT' sticker
Air Spencer air freshener

Hey guys, if you read the Technical DSM manual which states all the details of our automatic tranny, it says that shifts are FASTER when you leave it in L or 2. If you want to see the exact info, check out manualcd.dsm.org. So Niclipse you were right, leaving it in L gear makes it shift faster, and should get you the best results, since the auto will shift to 2nd and then to 3rd anyways. I think you should be faster than that though? I had an aem cold air intake, headers, cam gears, exhaust, and did 17.3 - 17.4. I'll try to look up my time slips so I can give you info on 60' times etc. Good luck...

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom

Its definitely the launches that hurt the automatic transmission GS and RS Eclipses. A good friend of mine drives a 98' GS and an AEM CAI and he manages consistent 17.2's. Not too shabby. But off the line, he sucks. I mean, it'll bark the tires good, but right after that there's a huge bog. I think I could outrun him on my bike to 20mph. Though, after about 40mph, he's as quick as a 5 speed.





"Yes, thats Shaun shooting the finger"

thank god i gots a 5 speed!

Chris Dishmon
coming soon:
PAINT!!!!(any donations of paint code p88 would be highly appreciated)
chrisdishmon@hotmail.com
http://klipzracer.homestead.com/index.html

I am going to go back to the track armed with 14" wheels. I want to see if this will help me at all.

My car has an awesome 0-35mph in my eyes, it fucking pipes. After that, it's shit.

-Nick

I don't know about you guys but the problem that my car comes across is the shift from 2nd to 3rd. I fall about 500rpms out of my powerband and lose time and power till it gets back up there. My launches aren't too bad, not as good as a 5 speed but I've been able to get some pretty decent ones. I have to go dig up some old time slips to find some times. My car doesn't bog too much. A little but not too much.


-Avenger
99 Eclipse RS
AEM CAI w/ bypass valve, Tanabe Hyper Medallion cat-back exhaust, Unorthodox UDP, Magnecore 8.5mm Plug wires, 55mm bored TB, S-AFC, Enkie Shogun 17" wheels w/ 215/40/17 BFGoodRich Scorchers (yellow), Flashy A/F gauge

Sitting around: Intake manifold for porting

On the way: OBX Cam Gears, Digital A/F guage

my best time's below with only an aem cold air intake. I'm automatic.

Brandon
AIM: DSMitsu95
'95 GS, Auto.
AEM CAI w/ bypass
Maxspeed Coilovers
Pilot FU STB
2 12" Pioneer IMPP's
Best ET: 17.243 @ 80.67 mph

Don't put your car in the "L" gear. Your launch and overall speed will be better if you leave it in drive with overdriff off.

Ryan
Ryeguy2002@Hotmail.com
'97 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS



http://www.monkeygods.com/Ryan
(Fast connection suggested)

dam everyone seems to be going to the track...I want to take my car to the track and see my times. I have aem short ram intake, Greddy header, and Greddy Evolution cat-back exhaust. For now my track is on the freeway or at the site of competition. anyone know where and when i can race in southern cali. And as for Niclipse, when i was test driving cars before I bought mine, I test drove a gs-t automatic and it sucked. I hate automatics unless they have a V-8 under the hood...sorry no offense.

here's the story again :)

with my rx-7 rims (16 by 8 13.8 lbs each) and michelin pilot sx-gt tires (225/50's) I could not get out of the 16's, I put my stock 14 inch alloys on and 15's were a piece of cake. About a 3/10th of a second difference.

It's mostly the wider, heavier tire that does it, all that mass at the outer edge of rotation is alot of rotational inertia, that slows you down.

I'll be you get that down from 18.0 to at least 17.7 with the 14 inchers, if not lower

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.803 @ 86.48 MPH

My enkei's are 17x7 with bf goodrich 225x45's. I remember a huge power loss when I slammed on my 17's over my 14's

But this still leaves me with, why does my automatic run so much slower then the rest? I've heard stories of a stock auto running a 16.7 ....

-Nick

man in theory bigger wheels would make you faster because you can eat up more ground per rev. but if you have real grippy tires or real heavy wheels you'll lose power cause of more resistance

at the shootout we will decide whats the best way to launch

...see you have 14's at a 70 series apsect ratio, that's about the same as an 18 at 40 series. The rim/tire diameter doesn't change except for maybe a 1/2" depending on the combo. the way you're talking about it is if you went from say 14 - 70 to 15 - 70 then your rim/tire diameter would grow, thus covering more ground in the same amount of revvs but that's not how it is done when you plus size you rim/tire combo.

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology: The Only Replacement for Displacement"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

all i can say is an auto will never be a 5 speed...yes the shift consistantly and all but all i saw when kilpz and i raced was him in my drivers side mirror for about 2 secs then i saw his tail lights ahead of me...danm piece of shit 5-spd. hahaha just playing chris you know your car kicks major honduh ass!

Talon
97'Talon Esi
AEM cam gears
Injen short ram intake
Rear-upper strut bar

would have more mods but just a poor kid! LOL

Take everything out that u can and run the stock 14's. I also heard that if u have it lowered, put stock springs in rear and keep it lowe in front to create more downforce and to help keep the tires down for better grip. Try power braking it and don't keep it in L. Let the tranny work on it's own. Drive the hell out of it a few days and your ECU will adjust to your shifting and driving styles. That's all I know of to do. I've never been to the track either, but just hang in there. You'll get 'em.

this fucking blows...ok i test drove my car at lunch (at work) and hit 116-120 before my 6.5 rev limit...i need more power...more top end...i wanna hang with the integra's that can do 130-140...please help me hahaha i need more top end.

Talon
97'Talon Esi
AEM cam gears
Injen short ram intake
Rear-upper strut bar

would have more mods but just a poor kid! LOL

My opinion, and this is just from what I've seen, but my opinion, is that N/A mods arent going to help much. If you really want performance you need to go turbo. It seems like the 420a engines are built to meet nearly there top ends (excluding turbos, yes they can take boost). In other words, new headers wont help much, because the stock ones are fairly large and do a good job, cold air intake doesnt do much because the engine is already taking in so much air (i mean hell, I just rev it now and I can hear it suckin under the hood) and so on. If you really want juice, go NOS or turbo. Correct me if I'm wrong..... I'd like to see some positive results from N/A mods, but so far, I've really seen none...



Josh
95 Eclipse RS
Bosch Platinum+ Plugs
Blue Lightning Plug Wires
Clear Corners and Bumpers
Hyper Whites all around
Rediculous Stereo
All Blue Interior Lighting
And last but not least, Unbelievable wheel hop on them right hand corners! ;)

Well, it's well known. If u have turbo, u see better results. A mod that adds like 5 HP on an NT car may add asmuch as 15 or 20 on a turbo car. I hae heard of this. It's really hard to build a strong all motor car. This is why I want to get a stage 2 HRC with FMIC sooo bad. I need a loan. I'm only 18 tho dammit! :P :( Hang in there. If u can't afford turbo, get NOS. I thought about it.