Well i made up my mind i'm buying a set of crane cams still deciding #10's or 12's. Nothing to radical, just more oomph.. Besides i'm nearing my 2nd 60k service install. i figured it would be great time install new cams (probably howell hi po top kit). I was reading my chilton book. the install appeared not to be difficult(maybe). any body give me tips on installing cams? When installing Cams does the engine have to be set at TDC prior to installing cams? How necessary is it to have Adj cam gears can I just use the stock cam gears? How about the break in period is there one... I don't have access to a dyno. cam adjustments not possible..
Thanks

99rs
your basic bolt ons:header,intake,upd,exhaust
strut bars: fu,ru,rl;on order hurricane GS bars
tokico shocks stock springs,
3% limo tint (can't see shit at night-- great during the day)
one generic audo system
other visual pleasing cosmetic mods.
b&mshifter&stiffer shifter plate washers.

the engine shouldn't be at TDC when installing the cams. thats all i know.

Read the section on removing the timing belt. Align all of the marks before you take off the belt. When you put the cams back in and the cam sprockets - put them back in line. Then gotta do the part about installing the timing belt.

The one problem with the Chilton manual is how vague the whole job can be. There are no references to other sections in the manual when there needs to be. For example - in the section for removing the cams #6 is remove the timing belt. It doesn't say Remove the timing belt(refer to 3-62)...just remove the timing belt. Removing the timing belt has its own section(page 3-62). The problem reiterates itself. In the section for removing the timing belt #5 is Remove the crankshaft pulley. It doesn't say Remove the crankshaft pulley(refer to 3-50)...just remove the crankshaft pulley. Removing the crankshaft pulley has its own section(page 3-50).

Replacing the camshafts is one of the more lengthy jobs to do. It's not really that difficult. It just takes quite a long time. Threre are several special tools required, and a couple of different types of loctite sealant. Read the manual again, and follow through all of the sections that you'll need to hit - it's more than just the camshaft removal and installation section.


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Gude cams : Jeep TB : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : GST catback
suspention___BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob - no sub amp(damnit!)
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns : Caspers o2 simulator(rear)
incomming___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : Field SFC Hyper-R

Do you have to upgrade the computer when installing the new camshafts? Do you just put the new camshafts in and thats it?

You can just put cams in and be done but you may have some driveability problems if you don't have the car tuned correctly. You may need a SAFC to adjust the fuel curve to make the best power out of the cams and you will want to have cam gears to adjust the powerband and you will also want to have gauges to monitor the EGT's and A/F.

Also important is the rest of the airflow path, Intake TB, manifold and head, then the way out too, head, header, cat, exhaust. These areas all need mods to take advantage of some hot cams, some aren't pulling as much air and don't need as many mods but the less resistance in the flow path, the more HP that is possible to be had out of the setup.


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