whats up everyone, I am new to this board, been on dsmtalk for over a year and they are of no help to me at this point. Anyways my egr valve went out so I replaced it and that didn't fix the problem so I went and bought a code scanner and it was p0505, so after figuring out what the hell the isc motor is I took it off and sprayed all the gunk off of it and put it back in, still isn't working. Has anyone else had problems with theres, what did you do, if you had to buy a new one how much was it? The car is a 96 eclpse gs, the problem it is having is that it doesn't want to idle when the motor is cold. Thanks

anyone, anyone at all???

Most people here have taken their EGR system off. Some people make the block off plates and some choose to buy them. I was lazy and just ordered mine from www.howellautomotive.com for like 35.00.

Try these links they may help shed a little light on the subject for you.

http://www.2gnt.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=show_thread&om=5579&forum=DCForumID25&viewmode=all

http://www.2gnt.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=show_thread&om=6244&forum=DCForumID13

the egr valve isn't my concern, I've replaced that, the ISC is what I am questioning.

If you messed with the isc or IAC motor at all, if you tried to move the plunger you have just put it out of wack and needs to be readjusted with a drb3 tool at your dealership, its a stepper motor and once its moved while not connected to the ECU it is now in a different position than stock and the ECU will not be able to fix that without it being reset or readjusted with the DRB3 tool

Your gonna have to take it in to someone with the tool and have them reset the stepper motor

what exactly is a stepper motor and how is it different from a regular motor. Also if I have to buy a new one what year of avenger or other chrysler should I ask for since the closest mitsu dealer is about an hour away and I don't really trust them with my motor since they don't know much about it.

>what exactly is a stepper motor and how is it different from
>a regular motor. Also if I have to buy a new one what year
>of avenger or other chrysler should I ask for since the
>closest mitsu dealer is about an hour away and I don't
>really trust them with my motor since they don't know much
>about it.

Well basically the IAC or stepper motor allows the IAC plunger to have many different positions vs a standard motor which will either open all the way or just close all the way, the IAC works but opening just the right amount to allow for proper idle, If you mess with the IAC motor or try to move the pintle (the end of the IAC motor that extends into the throttle body) it has just lost its position and now the ECU thinks the IAC is in a different position

Ex. the IAC motor will open lets say 1/8" to allow air to go into the TB after the plate to give the engine enough air to maintain idle
So if you messed with it in anyway when the ECU thinks its open 1/8 of an inch but now its really open only 1/16" so you have idle problems

But with the dealers DRB3 tool they can reset the position of the IAC motor so when its fully closed its at say 0% open instead of it actually being at like 10% open

They should be able to do that for like 25 bucks if you find a nice mechanic, a bad shop will have you replace the IAC (which also could be your problem but if you know you may have altered the position of the IAC motor you can ask them to reset it)

OK?

well I bought a new one and now my car is reving high to about 3500 after the new one was put in. Anyone have any ideas??? This is really beginning to piss me off.

>well I bought a new one and now my car is reving high to
>about 3500 after the new one was put in. Anyone have any
>ideas??? This is really beginning to piss me off.

like MCGYVR said once you mess with the IAC in anyway, including replacing it, you have to have it reset.

i called the chrysler dealer where I bought it and they said it didn't need to be set or recalibrated???

check out page 13A-135 of the mitsubishi motors service manual('98)



i went to satan to ask how much it would cost to reset it. the guy went to the back and came back 5 min. later and told me they couldn't reset it, that i had to by a new one. i told him " bitch, its says so in the service manual i bought from you." he disapeared to the back again, came back 15 min. later and told me it would be $75 just to hook it to the computer. so i told him to fuck off.

will the have to have the car or do all they need is the isc itself, cause I hate letting places have my car. What exactly will they be doing?

yeah they need your car. they got a bad ass scanner that they plug into the datalink connect, that they can reset it with. it only take 5-10 minutes but they will probably charge you out the ass. i thinks its like a DRB-3 scan tool, i'm not sure i saw it in somebody else's post earlier today.

Just so you know the dealership by me told me its 25 bucks to reset the sensor, most shops are dicks about modifications you just have to find a good one, you might not need to go to the dealer also, some good mechanic shops should also have the DRB3 tool, or even a transmission shop should have one, wether or not they know how to use it is a different thing but 25 bucks no more

I have had a couple tell me 75 bucks though

i haven't been able to find one that won't charge for and hour of labor to do it. $65 minimum