ok when i run 18psi i will have some sereouse tracktion problems. i was jsut wondering what i can do to aid this,like suspention..............or what i have no clue what to do becides slicks at the track?i heard of somthing like i think its called tracktion control or somthing but i now nothing about that.

lsd will help and good spring/shock combo all around will also help

lsd?

limited slip differential, will help keep them wheels planted hard on the road

something cheap that will help a little are stiffer motor mounts, if you don't already have them.

The new shocks I had helped traction a lot, you could get a Quaife differential, some wider rims and tires, that should help.

For better traction, you could do:

1. Polyurethane motor mount inserts (minimize wheel hop)
2. Adjustable shocks and lowering springs combo
3. Any high performance tires (stock Eagle RS-A's suck)
4. Quaife LSD ($1200!)

is the lds realy worth the money and where dose this thing go?

>something cheap that will help a little are stiffer motor
>mounts, if you don't already have them.

question: I got a pair of motor mount inserts from Summit, like $20... Do they go on the side mounts?

Dude you seriously need to take time to learn how to spell. Tracktion. lds? It's an LSD, stands for LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL. It makes sure that the power gets to the ground instead of going the path of least resistance. Kind of like the traction lock systems of way back in the day but you can take corners without sliding bad.

ghettoraid the mounts go on the front and rear because the motor doesnt move side to side very much. If it were a v block configuration then the mounts would go on the sides.

Anyone messed with that Phantom Grip thing? Isn't that supposed to be cheap fake LSD!?



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT

>Anyone messed with that Phantom Grip thing? Isn't that
>supposed to be cheap fake LSD!?
>
>
>
>Jon

i dunno but that's a sweet tunnel shot of your car. nice.

an LSD is a part that goes in the transmission. our cars run an open differential. this puts more power on a slipping wheel to ensure understeer. the LSD does the exact opposite, puts power on the gripping wheels. alot smarter. it's the most expensive and most helpful thing you can do. if you don't have the 1200 i would suggest firming up your suspension. get good struts like koni's or tokico illuminas. something adjustable so you can firmen it up when you race. motor mounts will help slightly if you haven't done it already. worth the money but if your running 18psi you are going to need more than motor mounts.

wheels and tires! what do you have now? new/decent tires could help tremendously. if your talking about traction issues from a dead stop then you would want a little sidewall. on a dead stop launch the sidewall will flex and the tire will fold and crinkle making the contact patch stay on the ground where a low profile tire won't flex as much and start to slip. i'd go back to 205 55 16's (stock 16" rim" if you don't have those already. if you don't have them anymore or came with the 14's then shop for some 16x8's. the tire size will be 225 50 16. this is probably the best all around solution for wheels and tires.

when buying performance tires look for a speed rating of V or higher. prefer W Y or Z. great all around tire would be michelin pilot sport all season's. they're Y rated (Y is a Z rating but good for weather like rain and slush, not snow) and do cost a bit. other than that anything V rated or better in a good name brand should help alot.

so in summary start basic. winter is coming so you probably need tires. if your the type that buys tires for inspection than you could benefit from a tire upgrade. if you have good tires, described above, than goto suspension. look at struts and springs. a wheel and tire package combined with some good suspension components to keep them down should help greatly and would cost about the equivalent of the quaiffe LSD depending on your brand choices.. the difference is if you skipped all this and went straight for the quaiffe LSD you could still have traction issues because you may have bad tires or worn struts. at least if you go this route you will have a solid foundation for the quaiffe to go onto.

1. Better tires, wider lower treadwear rating
2. underinflate front tires
3. softer springs in front
4. softer shock dampening in front
5. LSD (I heard it turn your FF into a AWD :P, basically allows both wheels to spin depending on which one needs most traction)

what do you guys think about this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871081141

says it works for turbo and non turbo yet only has one part number. not possible unless there's some way they made it fit both with extra hardware. i've personally never heard of that particular unit where as i've heard of people that contribute to this board with the quaiffe. so i'm biased on the quaiffe.

i have the phantom grip. its good, totaly worth the money. the only downside is that you have to open up the tranny to install it. IF that wasn't the case then everyone would have one though.

I think the $1,200 price tag keeps everyone from having a LSD.

Some good suggestions on wheels, tires and stiffenign up suspension, with motors mounts this certainly will help. But I think you should look at your launch if you are getting that much wheel spin/wheel hop. You might want to try a different launch rpm. All the mods in world won't make up for a bad launch. But the higher mods will allow you to launch harder.

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines, AFX 55mm TB (re-installed once exhaust is done, intake was outflowing exhaust)