LAST EDITED ON 16-Jun-01 AT 08:29 PM (PST)

Since my car ran out of oil due to big oil leak from #@$@# hose clamps failing on me, how do I know if I spun a bearing or not?

How can I tell if my bearings were damaged? Can my car still run with damaged bearings?

If I get my crank play checked, I can infer the condition of my bearings from this?



___________________________
l e o n
1995 Eagle Talon ESi-T
Star Stage 2
Boost is GOOOOOOOD!

if you spun a bearing you would loose your oil pressure. you get oil pressure from the berrings, i dont know if our cars have oil lights but if they do and you spun a bearing then the light would be on. other then that id say you would know if you spun a bearing, if the motor is still quiet through the rpms then dont worry about it. if you have main bearing going bad they usually sound like a light grinding noise, if you have rod bearings goin bad she will have a deep tone knock, depending on how bad they are.

My car idles fine (after fixing the leak) with no oil light showing, so is my engine okay?



___________________________
l e o n
1995 Eagle Talon ESi-T
Star Stage 2
Boost is GOOOOOOOD!

if you can rev and she is still quiet then it should be fine

rev and quiet? well seems normal..I mean I rev, I don't hear it go klunk klunk...

I don't know....I hear some whining/hissing/whirring noise when I rev...maybe that's from my turbo???

Is there another way to judge condition of bearings?


___________________________
l e o n
1995 Eagle Talon ESi-T
Star Stage 2
Boost is GOOOOOOOD!

When I had a spun bearing and I would rev above 4000 rpms there would be a loud knock knock knock knock. The number one rod bearing was the one to go. You would be able to hear if there was a bad problem. When the bearing first went bad, I went to my mechanic because I didn't know I had a warranty and he took a look and saw the spun bearing and we tried replacing the bearing because the crank measured to be in spec with no major damage. He put the rod in and then after having seen the inside of our engine and the clearances inside suggested that I use SAE 30 oil. Not 10w, 5w or any of the thin oils but a thick SAE 30 and then suggested that I add 1/2 QT STP Oil additive. Well before I could change the oil to the thicker stuff, the bearing went again. This time it took the short block with it. FOund out about 60,000 mile warranty and called satan. SATAN took it in for 6 weeks (told us 1 week but that another story). The #1 piston was held together by the bent rings. It was in about 10 pieces. The rod was bent like a banana and then snapped. The valves were bent also. So they fix everything under warranty. So 2 days before I leave for NOPI last year, It's ready so my dad picks it up. They had put about 20 test miles on her and she was running good. So my dad leaves SATAN and not even 1/4 mile away, it shuts off. So he trys to restart and then has to push it across 3 lanes in rush hour traffic. Satan send 3 techs up to check on it and 2 cam gear bolts were missing so the cams stopped and all 16 valves bent!! 2 days til NOPI and I have no car again. They finally rushed in the rest of the parts and I got her back 4 hours after I had planned on leaving but at least everything was fixed. I have been running the thick oils for a year now since the rebuild and have had no problems at all. Sorry I ranted a little but you get the idea


KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Custom 2 1/4 inch exhaust
Empty Catalytic Convertor
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires

My oil pressure was fine when I spun mine. Even power was good (I knew it was f*cked up so why save it. Sooner it goes, sooner new engine goes it. Raced, burnout I did it all on the spun bearing). Like they say you'll know if you have it. Initially it sounds like a lifter tapping and doesn't start until the car warms up a bit. Then it just progresses from there. You here it all the time. When you rev you here the bearing rattling around. Finally by the time I couldn't drive it anymore (after an 90mph highway run) is sounded like someone threw nuts and bolts in the crankcase once I got off the highway. Later when I started it up it just sounded like the rod knocking loudly against the cyl wall. No bent or broken parts though. Needless to say my oil is checked every other day. Even did the 15W-50 mobil 1 for a while but am down to 10w-30 trying to scavenge a few hp. I also chek my drain pipe, hoses and clamps all the time with it so close to the downpipe and possible vibrations. My fear is a drainpipe nut is gonna loosen and fall into the oil pan.


Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

if you had a bad rod bearing it would'nt effect the oil pressure, oil pressure comes from the main bearings

Drop Ur oil pan and look fr metal shaving. I let my car drip and sit overnight then I inspected my block and say there was play in my 3rd and 4th rods. The metallic shavings were my rod bearings and you would hear this nasty annoying clicking when it is bad and felt in the clutch.

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology: The Only Replacement for Displacement"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

It's an auto...so I really can't feel it in the clutch..

Could I get crank play checked out so that'll tell me crank bearings?

___________________________
l e o n
1995 Eagle Talon ESi-T
Star Stage 2
Boost is GOOOOOOOD!

...U can still drop Ur pan, so do it:)

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology: The Only Replacement for Displacement"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

I just filled it up with new mobil1 synth oil....and plus it's a bitch to drop oil pan! I gotta unbolt my downpipe...


When I get my HG down (5000km later -- also due for timing bel), I'll get whoever it is to drop my pan..

What do I check for when pan is dropped?



___________________________
l e o n
1995 Eagle Talon ESi-T
Star Stage 2
Boost is GOOOOOOOD!