Alright, its winter time pretty much here and I guess I can start thinking about performance stuff for my car. I finally finished off the appearance mods by getting 97-99 Eclipse lights on Friday :) !!

Obviously since my car is auto and non turbo its missing one HUGE thing, low end torque! Can anyone give me some more suggestions on what mods I can do to help improve low end, even just a little.

Right now I got cold air/short ram intake (depends on the season :D ), magnaflow muffler (stock piping and cat) and the Final Drive Gear mod. I also got NGK plugs and Accel wires but they don't really make a difference.

So what else could I do for my car to get the low end, I was thinking about just throwing in a front motor mount insert (don't know if it will help even a tiny bit?) and possibly getting a hiflow cat...is that a good idea?

BTW I don't got money for a turbo... :(

Thanks

underdrive pulley, bored throttle body
other than that there really isnt much, most mods benefit top end while sacrificing low end.

You, like me have the auto so we are pretty much out of luck
If you did the final drive mod maybe look into a shift kit

Slap a Stroker kit on that bad boy.

Pretty much just what MCGYVR said in his post. There isn't much else that you could do to really gain more torque--aside from some kind of power adder or stroker kit (more displacement).

Motor mount inserts don't really help with power. They only help with power transfer. The benifits are negligable unless you have a problem with wheel hop on launch.

A high flow cat will not help your low-end torque, it will hurt it. It will give you more high-end torque.

An underdrive pulley will help you see torque through the whole range. You should get one - its a noticable gain. A bigger TB will help as well. How bout some cams? They'll definately help.


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Gude cams : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : Thrush glasspack
suspention___BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob - no sub amp(damnit!)
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns
incomming___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : Jeep TB : Field SFC Hyper-R

A header, with an underdrive pulley, should help you gain more low end torque.

As stated before by my illustrious colleagues ;) the underdrive pulley will free up power over the entire RPM range, and you will notice the improvement in the low end.

A header for our cars usually doesn't add any top end power, but does tune the car to produce more power lower in the RPM range. Good for street driving, not useful for drag racing.

I'd look into the underdrive pulley and a header with a long runner design. Longer runners = low end power, shorter runners = top end power.

Hope that helps.

ummmmm, I noticed a loss in low end torque with the header and a greatly improved top end (bosal header)

because u have a 4-1 header?

I think the 4-2-1 header gives more low end.


Ken

5zigen rearsection/Cherrybomb glasspack resonator/Bosal header/injen short ram intake/ported TB/AFX UDP/Fidanza cam gears/Power Stop cross drill rotors(front)/shunk2 coilover/Koni adjustable (front)/KYB struts(rear)Konig V-racing front bar/rear upper bar/painted black Enkei RSF2 17" with Kumho/ Nakayama projectors headlight/K2 8000K HID system /WW 3 pieces wing/interior mods

i have a 4-2-1 header, highflow cat, and cat back and notice a minimal low end torque loss, but the top end acceleration is awesome! I wanna go with a pulley and maybe a bigger throttle body and then im finished with my car...time to start saving for a faster one...maybe a 1G AWD.

BOOST......................like me :P

Actually, the header will benefit low end torque mostly. On a 5 speed car equipped with a header, there is no benefit to the 1/4 mile time. This means that at the RPMs used for a drag race, the header provides no gain. Typically, a launch is at or above 3500RPM, and doesn't drop below that again. Furthermore, once the RPMs climb to 5500RPM or so, they won't drop below that. When you shift, the RPMs drop to 5500 or so, maybe higher. 90-95 % of a drag race, therefore, is at or above 5500RPMS, and there is no noticable gain at those RPMs, so therefore any possible gains are at a different RPM. This RPM needs to be lower, as the ECU will not allow the motor to rev any higher then 7200RPM. From what I have felt of 2GNTs, those with headers seem to have more of a kick when the throttle is punched at 3K. I am not normally one to rely on a butt dyno, but there is a noticable difference between the cars equipped with a header and those not equipped with a header. Keep in mind that at 3K, any punch is noticable, as there is almost none stock.
-=B-=

do a compression test I got crap compression right now and I have like no lowend torque.

Well I took my car in for an oil change and there is a big leak (well oil all over the underbody) DAMNIT!! They put leak dye in to see where its coming from, gotta go back in 2 weeks. My guess is the valve cover gasket is leaking again - I tried redoing it once but the new one didn't even come close to fit, so I just put gaskget maker on with the old one. My guess is it started leaking out the back and I never would know it.

Plus they told me I need a new belt (the one that turns the alternator, power steering and A/C) How hard is this to change myself? Or should I just take it to a shop?

>Well I took my car in for an oil change and there is a big
>leak (well oil all over the underbody) DAMNIT!! They put
>leak dye in to see where its coming from, gotta go back in 2
>weeks. My guess is the valve cover gasket is leaking again -
>I tried redoing it once but the new one didn't even come
>close to fit, so I just put gaskget maker on with the old
>one. My guess is it started leaking out the back and I never
>would know it.
>
>Plus they told me I need a new belt (the one that turns the
>alternator, power steering and A/C) How hard is this to
>change myself? Or should I just take it to a shop?

There is two belts. One solely for the alternator, and one for the PS/AC. I have never changed the alternator belt, the shop did it. I did change my PS/AC belt though and it wasn't too bad, but kind of a bitch to get on there right. The alternator belt is the one in the back of the engine, so it might be harder to reach.

-Nate



________________
-98 Avenger I4 5spd
-ALL MOTOR build up on the way
-Mods: AEM blue front Big Brake Kit, AEM blue CAI, Bosal Header

Next Mods:
Bored Throttle Body, Ported Intake Manifold, UDP

2.4

You'll have low end to spare!

I used to drive a NT auto...in my old eclipse. Don't waste your money on common bolt on's hoping for low end torque, it won't happen. Your basic options are the 2.4, some type of tranny work (stall speed converter or level ten equip), or maybe consider a 5-speed swap?

If you are really looking to get low end torque, be prepared for forced induction power adders or sell your car, you can't expect bolt-ons to make up for the lack of displacement.

If you don't want to go turbo or nitrous (instant low end torque ;)), then the 4-2-1 header will help a little, plus what others have mentioned--bored throttle body and underdrive pulley. The 4-1 header plus high flow exhaust will actually make you lose a couple of ft/lbs. I noticed this when I dyno'd my car a long time ago.

Thanks for all the responses guys. If I get the 4-2-1 header I should go to the Greddy right? From what I heard these are the only real good ones?

As it is now, when my stereo is turned loud my gauges and headlights dim a little, would the UDP only worsen this or even cut out my stereo?

Thanks again!

i thought greddy only made a 4-1... pacesetter makes a 4-2-1 and it think hotshot does too...theres a guy selling a used hotshot in the for sale section..session101 is his AIM name i think