Ok,
when i rev my engine up, or when it is backing down after i have shifted gears, the engine idles at 1,200 rpms, then in a few seconds it will go down to 800.
Also,
when i start the car, if i drive it in about a minute, then the engine will stay revved to about 2g then to 1500 then to 1200 then to 800.

Is there anything wrong with it? Like a vacuum leak or something?
I just bought the car, and it is my first eclipse. I have wanted one for a while, but I don't know a lot about them, seeing my family has own mostly GM products (including my truck that I have had since I was 16).

Assuming your car is stock, it sounds like a vacuum leak.

Mine does that too, but I'm not exactly stock. Could be a vacuum leak... maybe the Idle Air Control Motor. But doesn't sound too bad.

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
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All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Mine has always done that, well, for as long as I've had the car. I'm "bone-stock". It's kinda wierd how it just stays there, then drops down (a few times). I'd wanna know what could be leaking even though it doean't really bother me since it's only when it starts.

check to make sure the plate on the TB seals good at idle. also check TB gasket, EGR gasket, sensor o-rings, and manifold vacuum lines. make sure they are sealed good.

Sorry, what do you mean by TB? I am not stupid about cars, but just some people abbreviate things differently. I heard that you can get carb cleaner, and spray it, and if the engine acts like it is going to die, then you have a leak.

tb - throttle body, and when using carb/tb cleaner, your engine will always stutter and try to die while spraying it in. you have to keep it from dying by revving while you're spraying.

this happens to me everytime i start my car and it is cold. then when it warms up to the normal temps everything is good again. i dunno if that might be an excuse but it's my guess?

Most cars when you first start them rev at about 1200rpms and then about a minute later the rpms should lower to about 750-800rpms, that's normal. If it is doing it when you are driving it's either a vac leak or maybe the throttle is sticking. To see if it is a vac leak do the carb cleaner trick. And you shouldn't have to get on the throttle unless you are spraying it in the intake.

>do the carb cleaner
>trick


care to elaborate?

i'd search, but i'm guessing if I entered "carb cleaner trick" that this thread would be the only one to pop up.

TIA, I've got rpm hang symptoms as well

i think what is meant by carb cleaner trick is: normally when you spray the carb cleaner into the throttle body, the engine trys to stall on you. you have to open the throttle to keep the car from dieing. but if you have a leak, the engine sould be getting some air from the leaking point, and it wouldn't die on you when giving it a shot of cleaner. but i could be wrong.

Carb cleaner will make the engine stall. What you do is spray it in the area of the vac hoses. If you hit a certain area and the motor starts to stall then you found where the vac leak is.

aha!

mighty fine trick i must say.


will give that a shot this weekend. :)

carb cleaner is also flammable as hell, I dont think I would go spraying it in a hot engine bay.

so then what would you recommend?

Don't do it when it's hot.


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Gude cams : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : Thrush glasspack
suspention___BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob - no sub amp(damnit!)
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns
incomming___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : Jeep TB : Field SFC Hyper-R

it's also corrosive and will quickly take off paint, besides being flammable. i would be real careful if you're gonna be spraying it around your engine bay. if you overspay onto paint, or it's windy and it get's on the body and you don't wash it off quick you're gonna be kickin' yourself.

about the revs... just a thought, but the ecu might never be getting out of "warmup mode"

it's gotta be a leak because I hear a quiet whistle when I'm not on the gas...

Is there another substance that will do the trick that won't have all the bad side effects?

(now I'm asking you guys to be chemists-lol)