Well, I am pretty sure my cam seals are leaking...cause there is oil under then all over the block, but not above them... so I think thats kinda common sense... hehe... but I have never messed with this shit before, so...

Looking at the FSM, it looks like you just unbolt the cam gears, remove them, the pry out the oil seals with a small pry bar, then inset the new seals and gently tap them in till there flush with the head... could I be so lucky and that be that easy, or ang i gonna hafta fxck with the valve cover and cams and shit?

Anyone who has done this, if you could give me a quick heads up, I'd much appreciate it.

TIA

Cams have to comeout. Good Luck bro, may as well get the top end kit while your at it.


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No, you dont have to pull the cams to replace the camshaft seals. the1Bill just used a small screwdriver to pry them out. You just have to remember to pry them out from the outside of the ring, not from the inside where the cam sits.

They're not the easiest seals to get to. Basically you gotta take off(in approximate order) the crankshaft pulley, motor mount bracket, front timing cover, timing belt, tensioner assembly, cam gears and the rear timing belt cover. Then you can get to the seals. But they are pretty easy to change once you get there.

EDIT : you don't have to pull the cams.


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Well, I did it when the motor was out of the car, so I forgot about the whole timing cover/motor mount bracket thing... just use a small screwdriver and don't scratch the camshaft where it meets the seal.
-=B-=

Thanks a lot... i have everything else apart, i just gotta rent one of those tools from autozone that holds the cam gears in place while you loosen the center bolts and remove them...

edit: Kyle, top end kit? you gonna buy it for me? j/k.. I havent had a paycheck for 6 months, other than unemployment and that just barely pays the car payment and insurance. :-( So, no top end kit for awhile, but i think i can manage... I seem to break plenty of stuff at my current power level, not trying to up it :-)

You dont have to rent the tool to hold the cams still while removing the bolts. There are two holes in the head where you can stick a screwdriver in to hold the cam in place. You will see them when looking through the cams on the head. I just did my headgasket and timing belt change, and i didnt have any problems doing this. Hope this helps

thanks a lot... i rented a timing gear puller and it wont work for my gears.. but they forgot to charge me when i was returning the 5 ton puller(which i didnt need either), so i'll just keep it as a free gift, hehe.

I'll usually turn the 2 cam gears in opposition (towards each other) with the timing belt on, and then turn the other cam gear in opposition to the crank bolt (with the timing belt still on) to break them all loose. Might be a good thing to remember in the future. The gears pop off once the bolt is out like butter.
-=B-=

Ok, got the cam gears off and the cam seals out... gonna see if napa can do a parts reference on the chrysler number. How deep do you drive them in? till its flush, or what, cause these ones set back in it maby 1/4''... but i think the book said till its flush. These seals didnt look bad, but i could see some oil leaking out of them.

How hard is it to do the seal around the crank or whatever else? Might as well do anything easy i can while the belt and shits out.

>Ok, got the cam gears off and the cam seals out... gonna see
>if napa can do a parts reference on the chrysler number.
>How deep do you drive them in? till its flush, or what,
>cause these ones set back in it maby 1/4''... but i think
>the book said till its flush. These seals didnt look bad,
>but i could see some oil leaking out of them.
>
>How hard is it to do the seal around the crank or whatever
>else? Might as well do anything easy i can while the belt
>and shits out.


Thats a good question, as i am getting mad leakage around my intake cam oil seal, right after i put my motor back together. I used new seals, and mine were flush with the metal. Actually, if i remember, it shouldnt really matter how far in they go, but i'd say at least flush, if not pushed in a bit, like 1/8". Just be SURE that the small, circular spring like device is inside of the inside lip of the oil seal, you can see it no prob. I am thinking on my car, its leaking becuase it may have popped out before i had even put it on, cause that spring piece is what puts pressure on the inner lip of the seal, thats what seals most of the camshaft. Dont have any info on the crank seal, but i do believe its the same procedure, just pry out, and replace.