i'd rather buy the kit than make them and i remember seeing something on here but couldn't find it in a search. i'll look more later, but does anyone have the exact part num handy?

P5007276

I finally broke down and bought one of these. I still have the electrical connector hooked to the solenoid (to avoid CEL). No change in driveability. I'm very pleased. No more crap in the intake and no more burning wires on the EGR pipe. It almost felt like the car ran better with the blockoff...who knows.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Where exactly do you get these???? (sites, ph. numbers, etc......)

how many times will i thank corbin? the world may never know. but in any case, THX AGAIN! :thumbsup :thumbsup

ps i'll let you know when i get the o2 parts in the mail, i cant wait.

and robotech i'll give you a website when i order mine.

I just made my own plates and it works good. I just recently got a CEL for EGR insufficient flow detected. I only took out the pipe and blocked off the ports. I left all vac and electricals hooked up to the valve and soleniod also...I have no idea how the ECU can tell if there is flow or not...anyone know?

found it for 35$ at http://www.neons.org/forumdodge/ now i don't know anything about these people, so don't be mad at me if they rip us off. but i think thats one of the cheapest places.

and how exactly did you make them out of curiosity. what metal did you use?

Well i got 2 new gaskets from the dealership( you should get new ones, the old ones may fall apart), and traced the outline of them on a piece of SS metal i had laying around. Used a jig saw with a metal cutting blade, and then filed it down nicely. I then used the gasket to line up the 2 holes that needed to be drilled. Thats it really. And i have to agree with Corbin, the motor just seems to run smoother now..could be psycological though :)

>found it for 35$ at http://www.neons.org/forumdodge/ now i
>don't know anything about these people, so don't be mad at
>me if they rip us off. but i think thats one of the cheapest
>places.
>
>and how exactly did you make them out of curiosity. what
>metal did you use?


You deserve a star!!! And Corbin, if I can give you another star, i would!!!

I could make 1000 of these for $25. Just use a piece of sheet metal in between the EGR pipe and the intake manifold.



________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - unknown
Project: Baby on the way


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

i dont get this whole egr thing and blockin it off... were do u block it off by the black thing by the header??? do u guyz have any pic.. of what u blocked off???? is it the metal thing under the black thing by the header????

Basically if you look at your driver side of the head, you will see the EGR valve connected to the head, and a metal pipe about 1/2" in diameter that goes from the EGR valve to the intake mani, right after the throttle body. What you do is you take out that pipe, and block off the ports that are left over when the pipe is out. You are blocking off the ports that are on each end of that metal pipe..

hmm very interesting and why would u does this??? it helps with vac? is there any downside if u dont do it?

>hmm very interesting and why would u does this??? it helps
>with vac? is there any downside if u dont do it?


You do it to keep dirty, carboned up exaust gasses out of the intake manifold..It has also cooled down my exaust gas temps about 50+ degrees too...only downside to this mod so far is the CEL i have gotten, and it takes almost twice as long for the motor to fully warm up when cold...Car seems to run a bit smoother, poss thats psycological though...

not meaning to bring an old thread back to life...but could you use some black rtv and cover the holes? well at least to get by until you can get plates (be about a week). when i took the EGR pipe off during the first part of my rebuild after a spun rod bearing, we pitched the assembly with no intention of putting it back on, and now i've run into a small problem lol. could the car run without the port on the intake mani blocked off? or is that not advised...

-Ben

No you can't. Just get the gaskets from the local Satan and make some block off plates out of flat stock stainless steel or Aluminum, using the gaskets as a template. Then bolt them back to the holes you have open using the stock bolts.

-Kevin

K thanks for that...good thing i asked or i might be having more engine problems...lol. I went to the dealer today and got my gaskets ordered (got the tube gasket but the EGR gasket will be in tomorrow) after spending 30 minutes arguing with the idiot at the counter who was trying to tell me my engine isn't the one that is sitting in my car and any other 2gnt...oh well, will get metal tomorrow and make those plates. Thanks again for the info

-Ben

fresh gaskets and a cut apart Dr.Pepper can, nuff said.

You think the aluminum would hold? I've been tempted to doing this, and now that I am about to rebuild it the best time :shrug

You just need to hook up the electrical connector on the solenoid. You don't need any vacuum lines hooked up. The metal valve does not need to be in the car at all. This will prevent you from getting a CEL when the ECU checks to see if the solenoid is connected electrically. This should be enough for OBDI cars. OBDII cars should do this electrical check and perform a "sufficient EGR flow" check. I don't remember the exact details, but the OBDII ECU will close the IAC valve and see how the engine responds. Without that supplemental "air" supplied by the EGR, the engine will respond differently when the IAC valve closes.

EGR would only really function at part throttle. It doesn't operate when the exhaust pressure is really low or at WOT.

Possible downsides to removing EGR are increased peak flame temps at part throttle. This will increase likelyhood of detonation at part throttle. Keep in mind I just said "likelyhood"; I doubt you will notice any ill effects in a well tuned car. You should also lose efficiency at part throttle. I won't go into details, but EGR forces you to open the throttle plate wider to get the same amount of power as a non-EGR engine (part throttle conditions only). You get lower pumping losses through an throttle plate that is opened wider. I doubt you will see much change in MPG.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Yeah me and Corbin got them at the howell open house so they sell them there for $35 also. Hey Corbin, did you reset the ECU to drop the CEL or just let it go away? Mine is still there and I hooked up the elec. portion of the sensor. Should I reset the ECU to clear the code?

i guess this is the one you guys got? ... http://howell.mountain.net/sdc/howell/ProductAvail.asp?Product_ID=214 ... i'm ordering it ... i just don't have the equip to make some that would last.

I just got my OBD2 scanner and anytime the CEL comes on I just plug it in and hit a button and PRESTO! No more CEL (until about 100-200miles later). I like it though!

So what can i do to get rid of the CEL?? I have both electrical and vacum hooked up to my EGR..I get the CEL about every two to three days it seems...I do have a obd2 scan tool, so i can erase all codes in the ECU at any time, but its getting pretty anoying...So is there anything us obd2 guys can do to loose the CEL???

If your OBD2 scan tool has an erase funtion then you can get rid of the CEL. It will come back, so you have to do it again. Thats all I know unless you want to take the light out.