Can someone tell me if the throw out bearing is supposed to clip on or somehow attach to that actuator arm that pushes the bearing against the pressure plate? I am thinking that this might be the cause of some very bad noises coming from inside the bellhousing.

it just sits in between the dent on each side... doesnt really clip in, but I dont believe it is needed, because the slave cylinder always has some pressure on it to keep it in place.

Brad: What is happening with my car is that its making a slight rubbing type of noise when the car is in N, and when I go to engauge the clutch, it really doesn not feel right... the car vibrates, and at low rpm, it made a bang that I could feel inside the car twice. I haven't installed a new clutch before, so I really don't know what to expect. The clutch only goes on one way from what XtremeRS and I could tell... Any advice on what we could have done wrong, or do I have a bad clutch???? Thanks for the help!

It makes a quiet metalic knocking sound in N, louder with the clutch out.(no pedal depressed). Then when you put the clutch in, and shift into gear, it ground the gears some, and while letting off the clutch to go, it made that same metalic knocking sound, but MUCH louder. It just sounds like something is loose in there..The TOB is just sitting on the tranny shaft, right on that fork lever. I noticed that the TOB had 2 small metal clip type things on the sides of it, and maybe those are supposed to clip onto the fork lever there. I didnt take off the old bearing, i wasnt there to see, so i didnt know how it was on there. Something just isnt right here.. And the clutch pedal is really soft, but the slave cylinder is getting FULL back and forth movement of that fork lever..

the TOB from what i remember has the rotating bearing on one side that contacts the clutch diaghram, then on the other side it is a plastic square that has 2 small tabs that fit into the fork, i had to snap these tabs into place. there is also a plastic pivot ball that the fork pivots on, this may also be a problem if it is broken or cracked.
okay
hope the info helps
lates
james

Also make sure the hydrolics clutch system is bled properly. You don't want it to not fully engage.

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

I have a major problem..I have posted his before but maybe I can re-word this. Basicly when I try and race my car... shift hard of fast the clutch sticks in the disengaged position(as if you were pushing i the pedal) but the pedal is up all the way and it still has pressure. When it does this if I go look at the slave cylinder and the release fork they are stuck in the disengaged position. The only way to corect it is to open the bleeder valve and when I do that they both go back to the engaged position, where they are supposed to be. I have replaced the slave cylinder and the master cylinder, so if any 1 can help me out??? Thanx